Auxive

Even if you buy the car for 300, you'll still have to put a lot of time, money, and work into it to restore it to the point where you won't have issues with the car. This would be good if you have money to blow because you'll learn a lot in the process. But considering the amount of miles on the thing, yes they can last a loooooongggggg time, but it will be almost impossible to resell if you ever decide to.
So think of it this way: you'll be putting money into a car to make it acceptable, but in the end you'll probably get no more than scrap value for it. Sorry, but it's the truth. Everyone likes to think these cars run forever and they do. But when it comes to someone buying one, no one will be willing to really buy one with 300k miles.
So in the end, if you have some money to blow, want to learn about working on cars, and plan on driving it until it breaks, do it. Otherwise, don't. My opinion.

lexsuss

How much money do you mean by 'money to blow' ? And I did plan that once I had my permit, and eventually my license, driving this car as much as possible. If I do buy this car I won't expect to get out of it what I put into it, it needs work, but it's a cheap running car and I want to learn how work on cars. It's good that I live where I do because I don't need insurance for the car if I'm not driving it on public roads, and I don't need emissions either, so really the only cost I need to worry about until I'm 16 is the cost of the car and its upkeep.

deanshark

First, I applaud you for getting a car before you get your license. But, find a different car. This guy had the car for only 500 miles, (2 months) and he already wants to dump it on someone else. Guarenteed it has alot more problems then he's telling you. Most of these cars will last up to 300k miles, but not all of them. Just think, you're 14 so the car will be sitting for 2 years and that will cause even more problems. Even if you can buy it for 500-600, its gonna cost you another 1000-1500 just to get it to be reliable.
That's my opinion. I wish I had that knowledge when I got my first car. (Many, many years ago) Try and save a little bit more and find something better. Good luck on whatever you decide.

LsG86

Everything I mentioned might not even apply to you but there is a popular mechanic on YouTube named Scotty Kilmer, he have a short video that shows how to check head gaskets.
It sounds like you're set on getting the car, and if you're getting it to learn how to work on cars that is a great car to start learning. I say go for it but realized what you getting yourself into. These cars are not for everybody, but for people who are willing spend time and money to properly maintain them. If nothing major is wrong with it and you can talk him down by a hundered or two I say go for it.

dicer

You can find one other than this one that you think is way better and have a larger can of worms. In other words you could go out and spend 3000 on a supposed good well maintained one and still have all the problems as others here have listed. I'm a been there done that. I found a 1400 wonder that was in way better shape than one I got for 3k. The only not so good thing on that one is the body damage. And the miles, so yeah get him to 500 or so if you can. Or find one for 3000 that may need as much work or more. Anyone that is selling a car think they have gold.

Things to look for engine running wise.
Is the check engine light on?
Is there sweet smelling white steamy exhaust (head gasket failure)?
Fill the coolant tank to proper level, when running is coolant forced out of the over flow (head gasket failure)?
Does it idle smooth no missing etc?
---
Drive it, does transmission shift through all gears okay?
steering track straight and doesn't pull, same with applying brakes?
Suspension noises?
All electricals work? Windows etc etc.
Body damage, feel for moisture in carpet for leaks etc.
Trunk seal leakage?
Glass condition
$500 its worth it for just the parts, if you don't think so go to a wrecking yard and buy some. If you part it let me know I've already offered for the stock wheels. And theres lots of other parts I'd buy.
In the pics he has the covers off for the wires and caps, you can look and see how good the timing belt is. Covers ?

700bones

I got something for around the same price that had PS issues. The lady's mechanic told her the rack and pinion needed to be completely replaced. The PS WAS non functional at low speeds. The only thing I did was disconnect the solenoid, cleaned the contacts (in order to test resistance/voltage), then reconnected it. Worked like a champ after that. It STILL has a very slow PS leak on the passenger's side. Most likely a worn seal and I'll either get a PS rack and pinion seal kit or get a rebuilt R+P. Depends on my mood and how much other stuff I need to get done, hah.

The thing to watch out for, that is the worst case with PS, is that solenoid. They are hard to find, and the price I saw out there for them was something like $700. The rebuilt rack and pinions very seldom have the solenoid in them. Honestly, if i had a car with the PS Solenoid gone/bad, I would remove the power steering pump, reservoir, plumbing, and seal the R+P, and then do a custom electric power steering system (they make aftermarket stuff for hotrods, etc). SO CHECK THE SOLENOID. I think there's a FAQ on here with the resistence/voltage values and how to check it.

As for replacing the springs, you should be able to get springs from salvage yards real easy and cheaply. Rock Auto had (is having?) a sale on brake rotors and also some FRONT shocks (I got two front shocks for $17 each).

You major limiting factor is:

1) you are going to NEED a second vehicle as your DD while you work on this.
2) you need a stable, fairly comfortable place to work on this (garage w/fan at least). A field or something or a friends garage isn't good. You don't want to be out in 100 deg heat with grasshopers and crap jumping all over you or have your friend suddenly change his mind and wanting you to get your "junk" out of there.

3) your access to proper tools. Access to a lift really really helps out also.

omarg

Another young LS400 enthusiast! The LS400 is one best values out there. :thumb up: IF you buy a clean one!

Since your 14 and not in a rush, do yourself a favor and wait for a clean, unmolested LS400. That one from CL looks rough. All the problems will nickel and dime you to death. Save up your money buy a clean one for 2-3k. High miles don't matter. Honestly, I would rather buy a 300k mile LS400 thats clean and maintained with records over a lower mileage one without records. A higher mileage car will probabaly already have had expensive things repaired (power steering, starter, alternator, ECU.)

this one that recently sold in Seattle seemed like a really good deal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-LS-LS-400-LS400-/121696804517?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1c55b1dea5&item=121696804517
LS400's are getting very old now which means that prices have basically leveled out. 95-97 models are significantly nicer than the 90-94 models. A 98-00 model is even nicer. Luckily for you, west coast cars tend to stay clean and rust free, which makes them last longer than rusty northern cars.

Save up your money. Insurance will probably be your highest expense.

dicer

I fully disagree with getting a CLEAN unmolested one. IF your going to modify it get one that has the mods done. Please don't get a good one and wreck it. The clean unmolested one will cost more and may be in worse shape mechanically. Clean and unmolested is a cosmetic thing, not a guarantee that its in tip top shape. If your a person that needs it lowered to scrape the ground please get one that already does that. Please don't mess another LS400 Gen 1 UP.

UNCNOR

iTrader: (1)

Hear hear !!!!!!!!!

cobalt91

If you're doing this to learn to work on cars I applaud you. The best advise You can get going in to a project like this is to educate your self on basic auto repair. Use this car as a place to practice your new skills.

Safety comes first:
Brakes
Suspension
Drive line

As far as inspection of the vehicle, there are several good how to videos on YouTube, but these can't hold a candle to having a pro do the inspection.
I hope it works out and you get it. It's a far sight better than the 77 Lemans wagon I had as a first car.

omarg

Well, he never said he was going to modify it, just work on it and learn. Any 15-25 year old car will need work. Isn't it better to start with a car that was cared for cosmetically and mechanically? Not a perfect 10, but better ones are not worth that much more. I think its better to start with a clean one that might need power steering, or suspension, or motor mounts, along with catching up on deferred maintenance. Many owners (non enthusiast) might not want to pay the dealer 1k for power steering, when they are told their car is only worth 2k on a good day. So they sell it for 1k, or 1200 and get a new car.

Hell, I'm gonna sell my 94 for about 2k, and it doesn't have any issues. It will need a TB and water pump in 20k miles but other than that, Its way decent.

dicer

If your going to LEARN on something get something that is not nice to do so on. The first thing to LEARN when working on and around the body is not to use a hammer or metal tool that is going to scratch or gouge it.
And he is a kid that will want to do some mods, a good condition car is not the place, as there are hundreds of them that have had that sort of thing done already.

SHOoff11

I bought a car for $750 that was in a lot worse condition then the LS you're looking at. I was just like you when I was 14 and wanted to buy cheap cars of CL to fix up. If you have the money, time, and patience I say go for it. Lots of stuff can be fixed with cheap parts from the junkyard as well as RockAuto parts. Just be sure it's what you want.

KJG92

Well omarg, if I would have known that I would have bought that one all day long.

dicer

Did you get it or? I noticed a 96 on CL for 650 or best offer.