python

iTrader: (4)

so all this and it was a loose battery terminal?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

That is why it is far easier on the wallet to begin the elimination process with the basic checks. At least here, all the replaced parts should not be an issue for the immediate future.

adrenelin5

Actually it was the clamp and the alternator in conjunction with each other.

Never even entered my mind that a clamp that I only replaced this past summer could be the problem. After all the nut on it was torqued as far as it could possibly be. On the other hand I know my starter is going to be good for as long as I own her.

I think it was a combination of the terminal and goo on the alternator brushes. I think the alternator was initially causing intermittent starting/stalling perhaps with the clamp being only a little loose . I then changed out the battery and things worsened (the battery is new). I then cleaned up the alternator and things improved slightly. I then noticed the loose clamp, replaced it and things improved 100 fold.

I borrowed a multimeter today and the battery just sitting was 12 v , running it was 13.75 v and with all accessories running it was 13.5v. Pretty good numbers I'd say. Since I replaced the clamp I've had no starting and stalling issues.

Thanks to anyone who took the time to help with this long standing irritating problem.

simrx3

so what i first stated if people were paying attention worked, instead of focusing on the part i stated about removing the starter..

adrenelin5

I actually thought I covered that base. One of the first things I did after replacing the neg terminal after wire brushing the **** out of everything was to run a second ground to the block. What you said was indeed correct. Just thought I had already ruled that out. To look at the battery connection everything looked to be as good as it gets.

Unfortunately, I had to pay the price of ASSUMING. But quite honestly I'm glad I replaced all that I did. The car starts and runs very strong for having 355,000 KM. And I have learned quite a bit in the process.

Ten years ago I had whatsoever no mechanical skill and was at the mercy of mechanic's. After the first time I brought my first car in for repair and was told it would be 2 hours labor then to pick it up the next day to find out I was being charged for 7. I decided then that would have to change. My next encounter with a mechanic was 2 months ago. I bought a deal on Groupon for an oil change, interior/exterior clean and 100 point inspection. They did the cleaning , told me the oil couldn't be changed because of worn hood shocks and reported to me about 3500 in parts and labor. One of the repair's was the upper control arms (both sides) that coincendentally I replaced myself a month earlier. Secondly a leaking rack that miraculesslly showed no signs of fluid loss at the resevior ( the oil they found on the rack was from a leak near the top of the engine) and and additionally some other **** that was B/S. So I appreciate any and all help Iv'e received.

Cheers and Happy New year.

simrx3

cool,

yeh unfortunately looks can be deceiving in the wiring world.. better to lift the connection, clean, corrode proof and reconnect..

glad you got it sorted

Riick

???
where ever they bolt to something. unbolt, clean the points its bolted to and the lugs with a wire brush.
place some vaso back on the contact point. then reconnect.
???

Are you saying put vasoline on the electrical contact points?
Wouldn't that act as a resistance to travel of the current?

TIA
Rick

adrenelin5

Like I said in my first post just when I think I'm out of the woods.........

Today while out the CEL and TRACOFF light came on at the same time the car started to buck and want to die when slowing to a stop. Upon restart for the first few try's is would turn over but then stop as if the power had been disconnected. Subsequent start attempts mostly were cut short by the starter seeming to loose power. During these attempts I watched the dome light and it went very dim coming back when the key was returned to the off position. A good Samaritan gave me a boost but the rpm's continued to be all over the place. The only way to keep it running was to get the rpm's up and use both pedal while at stop lights.

Another thing I noticed was that the engine now sounds as if it is a diesel. Any ideas?

This is the first time I've had codes and the following is what came up.

Trac code 51: Problem in engine control system.

CEL code 13: RPM signal # 2.

Riick

Might be camshaft position sensor.
Had one go out on a Mercury once, it was a fairly cheap and easy fix, under $40-$50 back then.
Find it, remove sensor, screw (or bolt-on) new

edit: A little searching had three different people report that that particular code caused by timing belt slipping one tooth.
One person reported that his car did not use crank pos sensor, and new distributor cured problem - new USED distributor at $20 that is, new NEW one much pricier.

adrenelin5

[QUOTE=LScowboyLS;7657846]
if that doesn't work, then I would strongly suggest you replace the ECU capacitors - using the exact ones mentioned in the thread.

Here are pic's of the capacitors in my ECU. They are all as good as the ones that are in focus.I know what I think of their condition. Anyone else have an opinion?

adrenelin5

Whatever this is it has to have something in common with the starter. Time and time again without fail when I have stalling issues it is followed immeditly by starter malfunction of some sort or another. This time thought the stalling is accompanied by fluxuating idle. I don't think the timing belt could be linked to the starter. Therefore I'm hopeful that isn't the issue.

LScowboyLS

Your capacitors and overall ECU condition do indeed look good, and not saying that the caps are definitely your issue, however, please keep in mind these points:

1. the caps often start to cause problems before they are visually failing

2. this is a known problem on all LS400's especially 90-97 - cars having sat up for periods of time and warmer weather seems to exacerbate the failure.

3. by having the ECU out and open, you have already done a decent portion of the work, and the parts cost is negligible - it's like driving around with an 8 year old battery, you know it is overdue to fail, why push it to the end, just fix it and rule that out (and start enjoying the improved engine and transmission performance at a minimum)

adrenelin5

It's just this code 13 business that is troubling. If what's being said is true it's likely the timing belt has to be replaced and after tackling the starter just last month I'm not sure I'm up for it. My knowledge is limited and from what I understand this is a much involved DIY. Anyhow I guess tomorrow I'll check the timing marks and if their off I'll probably be parting her out.

cobalt91

you did a starter replacement yourself, then the timing belt is a walk in the park. Trust me its worth it.

LScowboyLS

Agreed, I would much rather do a timing belt than a starter!

A timing belt or doing the ECU caps is all about thinking & finesse, whereas a starter on an LS400 is just a lot of work! - lol