Wheels and tire specs for slammed/tucked look.
#1
Wheels and tire specs for slammed/tucked look.
I searched but keep coming up with mixed info. what is the acceptable MAX size, width and offset of wheel for a 95 LS? I was looking at some 19x9.5 et35or20 and 11.5s with a et40or25.
has anyone done exact measurements on the BS limit for these cars?
What about hub face to inside fender lips?
tires im less concerned with as that changes with how agressive the wheel fitment is.
I have yet to buy the car and normally i do all my own math on these sorts of things but not having the car in my hands limits me from doing that.
pretty sure the 35&40et's would fit but not sure how they would fit...
whats the most someone has stuffed into the rear without doing major fender surgery on a static suspension?
If these questions have been answered before, please point me in the right direction because i cannot find it.
Cheers
Mitch
has anyone done exact measurements on the BS limit for these cars?
What about hub face to inside fender lips?
tires im less concerned with as that changes with how agressive the wheel fitment is.
I have yet to buy the car and normally i do all my own math on these sorts of things but not having the car in my hands limits me from doing that.
pretty sure the 35&40et's would fit but not sure how they would fit...
whats the most someone has stuffed into the rear without doing major fender surgery on a static suspension?
If these questions have been answered before, please point me in the right direction because i cannot find it.
Cheers
Mitch
#2
Not trying to come across as a jerk, but I really hope you looked through this thread;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-setup-61.html
There are 61 pages of wheel setups in there. Would at least give you a very good visual as to approx fitments.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-setup-61.html
There are 61 pages of wheel setups in there. Would at least give you a very good visual as to approx fitments.
#4
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
LOL... might as well just hold your hand and feed you baby food.
The amount of body work needed being crazy is all opinion based. Me I feel that pulling inches of metal and painting afterwards is nothing and others feel that its alot. Different stroked for different folks. Mount, pull to clear and look at it. If your not happy change tire size, offset or pull some more. There is no exact recipe, plus photos at different angles may show less pull than was really used.
The amount of body work needed being crazy is all opinion based. Me I feel that pulling inches of metal and painting afterwards is nothing and others feel that its alot. Different stroked for different folks. Mount, pull to clear and look at it. If your not happy change tire size, offset or pull some more. There is no exact recipe, plus photos at different angles may show less pull than was really used.
#5
Lets see, not to sound like a jerk either but...
I am a 10+year licensed Auto Tech, fabricator and have worked on GrandAm Porsche race crew for more than a few years and I am an engineering Student. I was a preferred wheel fitter for both Kinesis and Fikse when they were around and i have been spec'ing and building custom wheels to exacting fitments for the better part of the last decade. Ive been rolling fenders for the past 10 years as well and am one of the few people in NA who has a techart roller capable of doing anything from smart cars to 8bolt SUVs/trucks. I'm jokingly referred to the human offset calculator in many circles and forums i frequent. I'm not interested in "will these 18x8 40et wheels fit without rubbing?" sort of details. I'm looking for the extreme end of the spectrum.
i have searched, i have also looked through that thread, the info i seek is not there.
as it seems i was to general in my first post here, this is the info i am looking for. i have searched for and found nothing.....
what is the max BS to PPC in the 95-97 LS400
what is the max FS in the same car?
at what BS do the barrels contact the frame at full lock or is the PPC reached before hitting the frame on lock?
what is the radial arc measurement on these cars with various wheel diameters; front and rear?
what is the PPC in the front and rear when dealing with the MAX BS fitments?
what is the minimum calliper padding measurment?
what is the radial brake length from the hub center; front and rear?
are the fender lips boxed, braced, stepped, stacked or shelled?
thanks!
the wheels i asked about were a quick fit job done by swapping centres fore/aft that i can have for a steal while i build my own wheels.
I am a 10+year licensed Auto Tech, fabricator and have worked on GrandAm Porsche race crew for more than a few years and I am an engineering Student. I was a preferred wheel fitter for both Kinesis and Fikse when they were around and i have been spec'ing and building custom wheels to exacting fitments for the better part of the last decade. Ive been rolling fenders for the past 10 years as well and am one of the few people in NA who has a techart roller capable of doing anything from smart cars to 8bolt SUVs/trucks. I'm jokingly referred to the human offset calculator in many circles and forums i frequent. I'm not interested in "will these 18x8 40et wheels fit without rubbing?" sort of details. I'm looking for the extreme end of the spectrum.
i have searched, i have also looked through that thread, the info i seek is not there.
as it seems i was to general in my first post here, this is the info i am looking for. i have searched for and found nothing.....
what is the max BS to PPC in the 95-97 LS400
what is the max FS in the same car?
at what BS do the barrels contact the frame at full lock or is the PPC reached before hitting the frame on lock?
what is the radial arc measurement on these cars with various wheel diameters; front and rear?
what is the PPC in the front and rear when dealing with the MAX BS fitments?
what is the minimum calliper padding measurment?
what is the radial brake length from the hub center; front and rear?
are the fender lips boxed, braced, stepped, stacked or shelled?
thanks!
the wheels i asked about were a quick fit job done by swapping centres fore/aft that i can have for a steal while i build my own wheels.
#6
Driver School Candidate
Define Extreme ...
That was a Good Post, Great Read.
You will have to Define "Extreme" in your Terms.
because this is "Extreme" in mine....
http://youtu.be/H11E0zwI7QA
I don't think anyone will share specs when they have aggressive fitment,
even less when Fitment is considered "Extreme"...
You will have to Define "Extreme" in your Terms.
because this is "Extreme" in mine....
http://youtu.be/H11E0zwI7QA
I don't think anyone will share specs when they have aggressive fitment,
even less when Fitment is considered "Extreme"...
Last edited by ClutchOne; 09-19-12 at 01:18 AM. Reason: needed to add a Video cause a Picture just didnt do justice
#7
Lol @ the flying Dolorean at the end there!
Little more extreme than im after. Haha
Yeah, I was sort of assuming I wouldn't get all the info right off the bat. I didn't openly share that info with just anyone either...
But I guess I need go refine my questions, a little more.
I'm not looking at running more than -4° camber in the rear and -3° in the front. Ideally, I'd like to be around -2-2.5° F & -3-3.5°R for maximizing tire life with Zero toe(if thats the ideal toe on these cars). I have no problem with rolling the fenders to the brink of rippling, and assuming the fender construction allows, I have no problem pulling the fenders a little as well. This car witl simply be a new DD for me so I want to push the boundaries of what's dd-able a little, not setting a new standard by any means. I don't like using silly offsets and spacers on reasonable width wheels to push the wheel out to get the look, I much prefer stuffing the most wheel&tire into the arches. As an example, I can fit a 13" wide wheel in the back of a 06+ GS430 without to much work. The tires would need to be stretched at least 1" over spec to clear the body in certain spots but it's doable.
Little more extreme than im after. Haha
Yeah, I was sort of assuming I wouldn't get all the info right off the bat. I didn't openly share that info with just anyone either...
But I guess I need go refine my questions, a little more.
I'm not looking at running more than -4° camber in the rear and -3° in the front. Ideally, I'd like to be around -2-2.5° F & -3-3.5°R for maximizing tire life with Zero toe(if thats the ideal toe on these cars). I have no problem with rolling the fenders to the brink of rippling, and assuming the fender construction allows, I have no problem pulling the fenders a little as well. This car witl simply be a new DD for me so I want to push the boundaries of what's dd-able a little, not setting a new standard by any means. I don't like using silly offsets and spacers on reasonable width wheels to push the wheel out to get the look, I much prefer stuffing the most wheel&tire into the arches. As an example, I can fit a 13" wide wheel in the back of a 06+ GS430 without to much work. The tires would need to be stretched at least 1" over spec to clear the body in certain spots but it's doable.
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Pictures Please ...
Lol @ the flying Dolorean at the end there!
Little more extreme than im after. Haha
Yeah, I was sort of assuming I wouldn't get all the info right off the bat. I didn't openly share that info with just anyone either...
But I guess I need go refine my questions, a little more.
I'm not looking at running more than -4° camber in the rear and -3° in the front. Ideally, I'd like to be around -2-2.5° F & -3-3.5°R for maximizing tire life with Zero toe(if thats the ideal toe on these cars). I have no problem with rolling the fenders to the brink of rippling, and assuming the fender construction allows, I have no problem pulling the fenders a little as well. This car witl simply be a new DD for me so I want to push the boundaries of what's dd-able a little, not setting a new standard by any means. I don't like using silly offsets and spacers on reasonable width wheels to push the wheel out to get the look, I much prefer stuffing the most wheel&tire into the arches. As an example, I can fit a 13" wide wheel in the back of a 06+ GS430 without to much work. The tires would need to be stretched at least 1" over spec to clear the body in certain spots but it's doable.
Little more extreme than im after. Haha
Yeah, I was sort of assuming I wouldn't get all the info right off the bat. I didn't openly share that info with just anyone either...
But I guess I need go refine my questions, a little more.
I'm not looking at running more than -4° camber in the rear and -3° in the front. Ideally, I'd like to be around -2-2.5° F & -3-3.5°R for maximizing tire life with Zero toe(if thats the ideal toe on these cars). I have no problem with rolling the fenders to the brink of rippling, and assuming the fender construction allows, I have no problem pulling the fenders a little as well. This car witl simply be a new DD for me so I want to push the boundaries of what's dd-able a little, not setting a new standard by any means. I don't like using silly offsets and spacers on reasonable width wheels to push the wheel out to get the look, I much prefer stuffing the most wheel&tire into the arches. As an example, I can fit a 13" wide wheel in the back of a 06+ GS430 without to much work. The tires would need to be stretched at least 1" over spec to clear the body in certain spots but it's doable.
I need a Picture of what "Look" your going after,
Your describing an "Average" VIPCar Fitment.
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