Coolant not flowing after change
#1
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Thread Starter
Coolant not flowing after change
I drained my coolant just to change it and now it's not flowing. I don't know if it's the t-stat or the radiator. The upper radiator hose and all the heater hoses are hot. The lower radiator hose (the one that goes to the t-stat) is very slightly warm. (just above cold). There is pressure in the overflow tank so I know the water pump is working. Refilling only took 1 1/2 gallons of coolant. Could I have messed up the t-stat when I put the funnel in to fill it? It's less than a year old and only about 12k miles. Or does it sound like the radiator could be clogged now? Everything was perfectly fine before I drained it.
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I don't think the lower hose is supposed to be this cold. I didn't start it today (I should have) but Sunday when I did have it running the overflow tank was full to the top, it wasn't going down at all. I just pulled the t-stat and submerged it in boiling water and it doesn't seem to be opening. I'm just gonna throw in a new one in a couple hours and see if that works and go from there. It's 95* and I have to walk to the parts store, this sucks. I was going to try running it without the t-stat, just to check, but then I'd have to put a gasket and/or sealant on it. Don't want to do that. We'll see what happens with the new one. I'll let you know.
Thanks
Thanks
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
The temp gauge did go all the way up within a couple minutes but the engine wasn't really that hot. I figured it did that b/c it wasn't bled yet. I didn't bleed it b/c it wasn't flowing, so no sense bleeding it until it was working right. I just went and got the t-stat so I'll try that in a little bit. I gotta sit in the A/C for a few minutes. (sucks gettin old)
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#8
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Thread Starter
All fixed I'm glad it was the t-stat and not the radiator. The temp gauge goes to almost half. (where it should be) I'm still going to have to top it off in the morning and bleed it again. I still don't have heat but I never did since I bought it last year. One of these days I might change that darn heater core.
#9
All fixed I'm glad it was the t-stat and not the radiator. The temp gauge goes to almost half. (where it should be) I'm still going to have to top it off in the morning and bleed it again. I still don't have heat but I never did since I bought it last year. One of these days I might change that darn heater core.
#11
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Yea, all I did was loosen the bolt on top of the t-stat. I'll check in the morning if it needs more.
LiCelsior, I thought bubbles in the tank were bad?
LiCelsior, I thought bubbles in the tank were bad?
#12
#13
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
the alternative if you have the right socket is to open the coolant fill on the water inlet, as that's the highest point that you cna open when the vehicle is on a level surface. most don't do it that way as a lot of people dont have the right inverted hex socket.
#14
Pole Position
Thread Starter
because air rises, so you need to make the reservoir the highest point of the cooling system otherwise the air will remain trapped as a bubble in the system.
the alternative if you have the right socket is to open the coolant fill on the water inlet, as that's the highest point that you cna open when the vehicle is on a level surface. most don't do it that way as a lot of people dont have the right inverted hex socket.
the alternative if you have the right socket is to open the coolant fill on the water inlet, as that's the highest point that you cna open when the vehicle is on a level surface. most don't do it that way as a lot of people dont have the right inverted hex socket.
#15
Lead Lap
The UZ motor is usually very friendly to bleed. Once you've added thru the full port (17mm plug), Keep the RPM's around 2k with the heat on full blast (manually not auto). Leave the cap off of the tank and keep adding coolant. Once you're up to normal temp and the t-stat opens and no more air comes thru, its Mission accomplished.
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Elless400
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05-01-17 09:16 PM