dc893

That sucks! That was like was like $980 of the total cost at the dealer.

cocainels4

will these mounts going bad cause vibrations while the vehicle is in drive? I just bought my 1991 lexus ls400 has 200k miles on it. Getting vibrations when stopped at a light with the vehicle in drive. If i shift it to neutral it goes away.

Yamae

It is the typical example of the worn mounts. You'd better to change them.

You will be surprised to know the difference after the change.

dc893

Got the trans mount changed today. It ended up taking about half the day . It is really simple unless some expletive idiot changed it previously and completely stripped on of the nuts. They weren't in as bad as shape as I thought they would be.

Gotta get the engine mounts next. Hopefully that goes better but I have found every time I have to go change something out on my car the last owner already attempted to change it and ended up making things much worse. Some people should just not work on cars.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

So did you change out the stripped nut?

dc893

Yeah, I had to end up cutting/drilling it out.

OKSTANCE

bookmarking this xD

KBH2

Someone mentioned taking out the easy side of motor mounts to more easily install the harder side, I was wondering if you unbolt the tranny mount so that engine can rotate more easily, would that help?

fixmiester

IIRC, when I changed out all my mounts over 2 years ago, the secret was to raise the engine up as far as possible BEFORE trying to take out the engine mounts (they were completely split already). Follow the precautions about removing the heater control valve on the firewall, etc. to allow space to raise the engine : the passenger side is easier to get to, so I did it first, bolting it only to the raised engine. Then I tackled the driver's side; that's where the real challenge is. I didn't have to unbolt the tyranny mount, but I did drop the crossmember down about an inch, to give me just a little more room to get my fat fingers into the the right contortions for removing the old mount (which is a little easier, since it was in two pieces). Getting the new mount in required even more contortions, so be prepared for that, but it can be done. Once you finish mounting to the engine, you can lower it down into the frame holes, and complete the installation. FYI, the bad tyranny mount was causing about 75% of my drive train vibrations, and went away after I installed a new one, and new engine mounts took care of the rest. So, the moraI is to ALWAYS do that one first (cheaper and much easier), then see if you need to go further.

Steve

vejfuk

Changed mine last weekend. 222 000 km in Prague in Czech republic (bad rodes). I can feel the difference of course, but not that big as I expected, air suspension did its job overtime. Still the ride is much better and smoother.
Unfortunately it was very expensive, 488$ for all three mounts. Lexus in CZ is expensive. Maybe i will order from US for next time. With postage and import duty it will be cheaper anyway i think..

valex

i cannot break loose upper nut on driver side, what did you guys use? Flex head ratcheting wrench?

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

I had to drop the cross member to create more space and used an open ended wrench. I don't think you can fit a socket in there.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

yep, drop subframe or steering rack. Or lift motor. Or both.

valex

I could fit a 12 point box wrench around that upper nut, very little room to turn. It just wouldn't budge, I used a hammer on the wrench, no luck so far. I will try dropping the subframe, but will that make it easier to remove that upper bolt?

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

It's a nut not a bolt and even when you break it loose you can only get little turns. It takes a while to get that nut off.