mr. tetsuo

iTrader: (3)

Saw this in Japanese mag and was curious what its called. I want to add some LEDs inside my cabin's cup holder and thought using this might make things easier. Any help is greatly appreciated!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/75984681@N08/6954487962/

02Legend

iTrader: (3)

I believe they are just called in-line splices. You can get them at auto parts stores.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

They're not actually splices, since they are not splicing a wire back together, but are tapping a lead. Most refer to them as wire taps. You can find some in parts places, but you can also search for a product called T-taps if you want it to be serviceable. You will also need male quick disconnects to use T-taps, but it allows for you to remove the connection if you need to change something (or just tire of it). For small projects like this, I don't see a huge problem, but these were an absolute no no in my shop for alarm work since the connections must be secured all day every day.

Big Mack

CrimsonSC3

i agree with big mack... you can try them but its been in my experience that they dont always give you a great connection 100% of the time... only time I've ever liked using them is when there is a extremely tight spot your getting into or a short wire... otherwise butt connectors and crimp caps are always a good choice

mr. tetsuo

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the replies. I havent opened up my center console just yet so im not sure of the space availability. but i may end up not using them

mkorsu

Those are called no-use-ems. Meaning dont ever use them. If you are not going to solder then tape and splice. End of story

elevate

iTrader: (1)

these are useless unless youre using them for big wires. you'd have better luck cutting and using electrical tape..lolol

Kansas

That is not the "End of story" at all. Unfortunately, some people do not understand how to use this type of connector.

I've used similar 3M Scotchlok connectors without problems hundreds of times since they were introduced over 45 years ago. I've even used them in exposed applications and then heat shinked them to make the connection waterproof. I do sometimes wrap them with a bit of tape to make sure that the Scotchlok cover doesn't pop open when using them in an unexposed area.

I particularly like them for installing aftermarket electronics in cars that are still under warranty since my goal is to never cut a wire in a vehicle that is under warranty. I want the installation to be undetectable after an aftermarket electronic component is removed.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure both myself and Korsu are well versed in using these connectors, but they are not a secure connection in a vibrating environment when you take into account that some manufacturers use different thickness of insulation for wires, and while it may be 14 ga wire, it could be enough insulation for 10 ga, which makes the connection extremely fragile. If you use the proper connector for 14 ga wire, you will have to crimp the bejeezus out of the plastic casing to get it to hold, and you're opening up the potential for failure. Are there potentials in other connections for? Of course there are, but soldering wires requires a hell of a lot more than a decent bump to dislodge it, and even wrapping/taping puts more wire in connection than the 3/64" that the standard T-tap has, which is the other concern.

Most circuits don't draw a lot of power on a security system (the most common use for these connectors in a shop) for basic things like disarming of factory units. Locks, power windows, and remote starts, however, draw quite a bit more, and you're trying to pull that through a sliver of metal that is literally touching only the outside strands of a wire, reducing it to something equivalent to 18ga (or less). That's a lot to ask of a small sliver of metal.

And these are all good ways to make the connection more secure, but it's also a lot of additional work for something that is sold as a "secure connection" from the start, and it does nothing to address the conductivity concern of the sliver being used to make that connection - the one you talk about being "undetectable" below, and I'll tell you this right now - if an electrician (a real electrician, not a local handyman who does "some electrical work") sees this type of thing, he automatically questions the skills of someone doing it because it's not the right tool for the job. And if the connections are so good, why would you be concerned about the cover "popping open"? Shouldn't it remain as secure as the minute you put it on, or is that a weakness that installers have found and decided wasn't worth the risk?

When you compromise the insulation of that wire with any connection, whether T-tap, solder, or wrap/tape, you compromise the wire. Period. And trust me, while you may think it's "undetectable," any installer or tech worth his tools will spot T-tap connection points quick, fast, and in a hurry - especially if you've gone to the trouble of wrapping it or putting heat shrink around it. Even without those tell tale signs, seeing marks in wires and small pinholes in insulation is a dead giveaway that something has been tampered with. It's one of the first things you learn as a tech when working on troubleshooting - what is missing that I wasn't told about, and why did it fail?

As I said before, for an extremely basic connection like OP was looking for, I wouldn't have much concern, but if you want secure, stable, weather-resistant, etc., you're looking for a different tool.

Big Mack

Kansas

Yes, the OP was looking for "an extremely basic connection". It is not necessary to "demonize" a product or idea to make a point. One size rarely fits all.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

No one demonized a product or idea. He recommended using more acceptable methods based on what he's learned. Everyone has their personal preference, some based off experience, some based on info from others. OP asked a question hoping for bofum, and he got it. Know someone who works for 3M or something?

Big Mack

Kansas

Does being a 3M shareholder count? OK with you if I hold Toyota ADR's? I'm not aware of owning shares in companies that make soldering irons but I'll look into it if that's the wave of the future.

Like to see the current Scotchlok catalog?: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...20Brochure.pdf

They've got lots of nifty stuff most people have never seen including tools to properly install their connectors.

1sWt2GS

iTrader: (6)

is there any pictures of this in action?

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

I figured there had to be some kind of motivation for the vigorous defense of something that needed none, and it shows that your defense is self serving. Damn, I'm good...

Are you asking for my blessing? While it's very sweet, I'm not giving any financial advice here since it's against the law (and violates my licenses). Nice try, however, at sarcasm. Fail.

Ah, but those of us who have seen them still don't recommend them when they're not the right tools for the job.

Good link, BTW. It shows that the connector in question is not the right tool. It is made for solid strand conductors, not multiple strands, and only good for smaller wires. D'oh! Guess we were right all along...

Big Mack

usando

old thread... but i felt like i had to say something from my experience with them.

I used them in my mods but have been reading how bad these are in various forums. I decided to replace all my Scotchloks and T Taps and solder those connections.

When I pulled the Scotchloks out half of them had cut into the wires. On all of them at least 1 strand of wire was cut. In some cases half the strands were cut! The Scotchloks seems to work better with smaller gauge wires. Probably because they are more flexible. Any yes, I used the correct size connector for the gauge of wire. The T Taps were particularly bad. In all cases the wires had kinks in them.

I would encourage people to rethink using them. I think in SOME applications these could work but in ALL cases I've found so far I have been able to solder my connections. So except for really really tight spots were I can't get in with my soldering iron I would avoid these connectors.