Sole350kid

Is this a good amp?! I have a w7 10" . Wondering if 1000rms is to much. Oh yeah price is 170 after discount

maximus54

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't do it. Kicker amps don't produce clean sound. If you want to stay low on price I would go with Alpine MRP 1000 which is around 250. the W7 is a 3 Ohm sub, so around 600-700 RMS would be going to the sub. I personally run a JL 500/1 V2 to my 10W7, and I am about to replace the kicker amp I have installed with an Alpine PDX for my components.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Care to elaborate? Given that it's a sub he's driving, it's not as though he's asking for the amp to sing like an Audison might, but I'm sure it will be fine for raw power delivery.

OP - if you can get that amp for that price and it's not a refurb'd unit, it may work well. Be very mindful of using that much power, though, as it's quite a bit for a single 10" sub, even a W7. Make sure the box is right and the specs are correct and you should be fine - but I caution that you may find yourself overpowering that sub if you like to crank it up often.

Big Mack

Sole350kid

Thanks you guys been helpful. Well it might be 2 w7 10" if I can get the 2n outta my bro trunk

maximus54

iTrader: (4)

When I changed from a Kicker amp to the JL amp my W7 had cleaner bass, it hit tighter, and had a wider range.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Which Kicker amp did you have? Unless it was defective, you really shouldn't be able to hear it get "tighter" or have a "wider range" because these are affected more by the enclosure than the amp (provided it is not defective or severely underdriving the sub).

Big Mack

maximus54

iTrader: (4)

I had a Kicker ZX 1000.1...When my W7 hits now it is crisp and clean. Before with the Kicker amp it actually would sound like it would miss a note b/c it could not keep up... I just don't think it makes sense to power a $500 Subwoofer with a $150 amp...JL is all about quality, whereas Kicker is more for power

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

The power supply of the Kicker may have been more to blame than anything. That's the only complaint I have really heard. I hear where you're coming from with the power thing, but in today's world power is a lot cheaper than it's ever been, especially as cookie cutter products are flooding the market. Even that JL amp is a decent price. It's soooo far removed from the heyday of car audio where $1 a watt was considered cheap. Now if you pay more than $300 for 1kW amp, you're spending big bucks.

Big Mack

krazyl3gz

Kicker puts out rated power...

I don't know what this guy over here is talking about but this would have nothing to do with the amp... "it actually would sound like it would miss a note b/c it could not keep up"

1000 watts should be fine as long as the signal isn't clipped.

swong46

iTrader: (1)

"If you want to buy something good and not regret it, dont buy anything that Best Buy carries. Crutchfield is also weak unless you pay the preimeum. Best would be goto caraudioclassifieds and look for used gear. You will know its good if people are trying to offer trades or say interested.

If I could buy speakers again, I would go with rainbow 3 way or RE XXX comps
And sub now is a D2 ohm custom DIYMA sub built by PSI, ID MAX is a good sub for you, sundown and DC are very good brands for subs

just make sure not to buy crap like sony, kicker, infinity, alpine, JL even, pioneer, etc"

Thats what I told someone else. If you want quality go with Digital Designs or something of similar qualtiy, look for good used gear