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Old 04-19-10, 07:55 PM
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scviolence
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Default viper 5901 install

hey guys and girls i was wondering if anyone could help me out. i have a viper 5901 im trying to install on a 95 lexus sc300 w/ factory alarm. i know i need the bypass module for the factory alarm. im in the navy and work on ea6b prowlers as an electronics tech... i deal with 115vac , 28 vdc 26 vac etc all day...you get the point.... lol maybe its just me but i dont get what goes where from the viper diagrams. so i was wondering if anyone could, whenever they get some time, hook me up with a simple what goes where like " h1 harness p1 goes to black 26 pin @sjb" something like that. if anyone can help i'd really appreciate it. thanx in advance. (i'm a DIY guy and best buy wants 300 to install it....so yeah i want to diy)
-David



this is the connections list from 12volt.com for a 95 sc300...

Constant 12V+ White/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Pink/Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Black Igniter, Passenger's Fender
Brake Switch Green/White Brake Switch
Trunk Release Black (+) 2 Pin Black Conn. in Driver's Kick Panel
Trunk Pin Red/White (-) Driver's Running Board
Parking Lights Dark Green Driver's Kick Panel White Connector
Head Lamp Red/Yellow (+) Light Switch
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm Green (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Red/White (-) Below Fuse Panel White Connector
Door Lock Red/Black 20 Pin Blue Connector
Door Unlock Green In Driver's Kick
Horn Wire Green/Red (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Green/Yellow, RF=Red/Blue
Windows Down LF=Red, RF=Green/White

this is the list of wires from viper alarm installation guide..why are there so much more wires on the harness than whats listed on the car install list like why is there a positive and negative door trigger and a door lock harness lol which one do i actually use??.
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector\

H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/1 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/1 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/2 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

➢ Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector
LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
LIGHT GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
BROWN/BLACK (-) 200Ma HORN HONK OUTPUT
There are three harness connections relative to remote start function, including
the heavy gauge and input and output harnesses.
12 © 2008 Directed Electronics. All rights reserved.

➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
H3/2RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
H3/3ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/4VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
H3/5GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
H3/6RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
H3/7PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
H3/8PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY
H3/9RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
H3/1NC (no connection) NC

➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector
BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT





➢ Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
Note: Wires 1 - 4 on the remote auxiliary outputs are wired to the (-) triggers for
© 2008 Directed Electronics. All rights reserved. 13
the onboard remote start relays and are not diode isolated. If connecting these
wires directly to the vehicle you must place a 1-amp diode in line to prevent
feedback from the vehicle.

➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT
Old 04-20-10, 10:03 AM
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scviolence
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anyone????
Old 04-21-10, 07:00 AM
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No bypass needed. No chip in the key.
Old 04-21-10, 07:05 AM
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The reason there are so many more wires on the unit is because it is made to work on any car. You have both negative and positive door triggers because some cars have positive triggers and others have negative triggers.

If you have no experience with 12v systems I recommend you get a professional to install it for you.

Skip BestBuy and find a local shop. $150-$200 for install should be the going rate.

If you were in NJ I would do a job like that for about $125.
Old 04-21-10, 07:56 AM
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where in florida are you located?
Old 04-21-10, 02:06 PM
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i also want to upgrade my oem security, but lately, i had very bad experiences with any add-on non lexus stuffs, had to remove them because i interfere with the computer, learned the hard way when the computer fried when reprogramming the fob, now Lexus is watching me closely.

I want a better security unit for piece of mind, the oem is simply to pitiful.
Old 04-21-10, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sueno2jz
where in florida are you located?
im up in north fl in pensacola.
Old 04-21-10, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by phrozen
➢ Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT = blue at trunk release switch ( need a relay refer to manual that explains why and how to wire up relay)
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT = White/Red Ignition Switch Harness
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT = Red wire on siren
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND = Make a good ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white wire in drivers running board
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white drivers kick panel below fuse box
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT = Green (-) located @ steering column @ switch
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off

➢ Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector DONT NEED THIS HARNESS AT ALL
H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/
BLACK
(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/2 LIGHT GREEN/
WHITE
(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
H2/3 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/5 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/6 LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
H2/7 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/8 BROWN/BLACK (-) 200Ma HORN HONK OUTPUT

➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Black/yellow ignition harness
H3/2 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 = White/red ignition harness
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT = pink/blue ignition harness
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT = Black/orange ignition harness
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY = Cut short and tape off
H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/10 NC (no connection)
NC

➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT = Hook up to ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE = Your choice if u want to hook up u can use "voltage/virtual tach setting"
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE = Green/white at brake switch behind pedal
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT = Find a good location for the provided hoodpin (usually somewhere on the radiator support area, clean surface of paint where mounting switch so it can make ground. also needs to be fully depressed when the hood is closed but not stop the hood from fully closing. sometimes you have to drill a hole to mount the pin switch if there is not a premade hole on the radiator suppor area.)
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT = Cut short and tape

➢ Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin DO NOT NEED HARNESS AT ALL
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT

➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT = green/yellow pass kick panel
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT = green/white pass kick panel


You should really read through the whole manual and it explains how each wire works on each of the harnesses and also how to hook it up in a car and also test the possible wire in the car using a dmm/dvom. i copied the harnesses from a pdf file and added the wire color and location and also noted if the wire was needed or not. i highly recomend reading the manual though you will learn alot from it and understand how to install an alarm instead of just matching up colors.

the only wire you will be cutting in half is the starter wire. the heavy gauge green wire will be going towards the "key" side of the wire the black or purple heavy gauge wire will be going out towards the "starter" side. The rest of the wires in the car will be tapped into either using solder and tape or using a pick poking a hole through the middle of the strands of wire, taking the wire coming off the alarm and stripping it back about 2" and feeding it through the hole and wrapping it around then taping it.

After you have everything hooked up, you need to program the alarm into Automatic mode. its pretty simple. open the drivers door granted that your door trigger wire is hooked up correctly. turn the key to the on position press and hold the button on your antenna till you hear it beep 3 times, once it beeps let go and press it twice and hold, while holding hit unlock on your remote and then turn the key to ignition then all the way off

One last thing 3m super 33+ electrical tape is your best friend.
PHROZEN hooked me up!!!!
Old 04-21-10, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by scviolence
PHROZEN hooked me up!!!!
I have the same one .. but i will never attempt some thing like this .. props to you
Old 04-21-10, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PetrolHead
I have the same one .. but i will never attempt some thing like this .. props to you
lol this weekend its goin on....one way or another
Old 04-21-10, 08:37 PM
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Good luck. I have a Viper system on mine and it took the guy several hours to install. Something I wouldn't dare try to do.
Old 04-22-10, 04:20 AM
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I upgraded my OEM alarm system with a Avital 3903. It is considered to be a OEM Alarm Upgrade. I bought it, installed it. And key my original Key fob, I have a 99 lexus rx300. It works great. No problems. I also have a DEI 551t, which is a OEM remote start add-on, which works fine with everything.
Old 04-22-10, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnLX300
I upgraded my OEM alarm system with a Avital 3903. It is considered to be a OEM Alarm Upgrade. I bought it, installed it. And key my original Key fob, I have a 99 lexus rx300. It works great. No problems. I also have a DEI 551t, which is a OEM remote start add-on, which works fine with everything.
Not to nit-pick but try not to confuse "OEM" with "Dealer Installed". Basically there is no such animal as an "OEM" remote start.

Most dealers farm out the alarm & remote start work to independent installers. Some may have an on-site installer to install the add-ons. The dealer may call the equipment "OEM", but trust me.....it never came from Toyota/Lexus with that installed.

Dealers use a lot of DEI sub brand equipment (Hornet/Avital/Valet/Boa) since they are very inexpensive without the "Viper" brand. They also use Auto-Mate alot.
Old 04-25-10, 05:32 PM
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SO I DID IT!!!! lol i finally got a chance to install this thing....yeah i will admit it was not a walk in the park especially since half the diagrams i online were half right lol...well if you follow these steps here i can tell you for a fact you car will start like it suppose to, and lock and unlock and do everything lol.....BUT!!! i still have yet to figure out 2 things if anyone can help out it would be greatly appreciated..


1.) H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT = Green (-) located @ steering column @ switch got down there and and ther is about 3 green wires tried them all none worked..... idk...

2.)H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT = blue at trunk release switch ( need a relay refer to manual that explains why and how to wire up relay) http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...2008_08web.pdf okay theres the link can someone please explain page 14 in barney terms...lol fill in the blanks for me...

contact 85= h1/1 red/white
contact 86=+12v constant fused
contact 87=____________(idk something to do with the black or blue being + or -)
contact 30=____________(black or blue not sure)


Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT = blue at trunk release switch ( need a relay refer to manual that explains why and how to wire up relay)
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT = White/Red Ignition Switch Harness
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT = Red wire on siren
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND = Make a good ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white wire in drivers running board
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white drivers kick panel below fuse box
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT = Green (-) located @ steering column @ switch
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off

➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Black/yellow ignition harness
H3/2 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 = White/red ignition harness
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT = PINK/BLUE FOR PRE 95
(RED FOR 95+) ignition harness

H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT = Black/orange ignition harness
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY = Cut short and tape off
H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/10 NC (no connection)
NC

➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT = Hook up to ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE = BLACK ON IGNITOR
(DRIVER FENDER, NOT THE IGNITION COIL ON PASSENGER SIDE)

3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE = Green/white at brake switch behind pedal
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT = Find a good location for the provided hoodpin (usually somewhere on the radiator support area, clean surface of paint where mounting switch so it can make ground. also needs to be fully depressed when the hood is closed but not stop the hood from fully closing. sometimes you have to drill a hole to mount the pin switch if there is not a premade hole on the radiator suppor area.)
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT = Cut short and tape


➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT = green driver kick panel
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT = red/black driver kick panel
(blue 20 pin connector is used for both)
Old 04-26-10, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by scviolence
SO I DID IT!!!! lol i finally got a chance to install this thing....yeah i will admit it was not a walk in the park especially since half the diagrams i online were half right lol...well if you follow these steps here i can tell you for a fact you car will start like it suppose to, and lock and unlock and do everything lol.....BUT!!! i still have yet to figure out 2 things if anyone can help out it would be greatly appreciated..


1.) H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT = Green (-) located @ steering column @ switch got down there and and ther is about 3 green wires tried them all none worked..... idk...

2.)H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT = blue at trunk release switch ( need a relay refer to manual that explains why and how to wire up relay) http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...2008_08web.pdf okay theres the link can someone please explain page 14 in barney terms...lol fill in the blanks for me...

contact 85= h1/1 red/white
contact 86=+12v constant fused
contact 87=____________(idk something to do with the black or blue being + or -)
contact 30=____________(black or blue not sure)


Congratulations!!!! Good Work!!!

1. Parking Lights - Dark Green lead in the Driver's Kick Panel - White Connector

2. 85 - Trunk pop output
86 - 12v constant
30 - ground
87 - Trunk release wire from switch


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