Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

I'm thinking of doing the enclosure under the rear deck route as well, mostly so I don't have to deal with the trunk rattling. I think you'll be happy with this, my last 3 cars have had 1 monster sub and they can definitely perform with enough power and the right box.

Don't want to jack the thread but since the topic is out there a little bit, what would you guys recommend for 1 "bad ***" 12"? I've been out of the game for a while so I don't know everything that's out there.

I'm leaning toward a sealed box so I don't have to fire a port through the rear deck too. I've currently got a little over 1500 watts RMS but switching to a smaller amp is a possibility. Something that doesn't break the bank is a plus.

I was thinking about the FI Q or IDMAX as options but I don't know how either of them would handle the power. I don't run around playing test tones all day but I don't want to seriously overpower it either.

Any other recommendations that would fit those criteria?

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Excellent note, cant throw a woofer with a high resonant frequency in a low tuned box and expect optimum output.

That I didnt know, I gave up on prefabs a long time ago Now being that its tuned at 35, doesnt that mean you actually read like at 39 or more? I bring it up cause I have a friend who is a DIE HARD DB Dragger and was telling me how when he tunes his boxes he tunes it like 8hz below what he wants to hit (dont remember exact number) cause once the beat is said and done, its higher than its tuned. Care to comment on that?


Basically user error right thats why I bring up ported cause when I used to do the seald thing (with 2 12's), I wanted more more more and things would get hot

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

what kind of 1500 watts? is it real 1500 watts or printed 1500 watts? What brand?

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, mang. It is a science, after all.

I definitely don't do prefab, but they're not as evil as they once were. There will always be swap meet boxes, however, so not all prefabs are tuned low enough.

The reason they usually tune them lower is because of the distance to the mic, and the octave variance. With steep slopes (-12dB, -24 dB, etc.), the down point is always per octave. If you build it at a lower frequency, the crossover point is then lowered, and if you do it right, it will affect the Fs point minimally. Keep in mind that an octave above 20 Hz is 40 Hz. If your woofer has a Fs of 30 Hz, you want the box built to hit below that so that the crossover is not right at the Fs. This is most applicable to dB type builds, though, not musical. Ideally, if you want to listen to music, you want the port tuned right around the Fs, or slightly below so that the woofer never unloads under high level.

Yes, for the most part, it is. It's also the result of boxes getting progressively smaller and not allowing for the technology that has been developed to help speakers survive to work. If you slam a woofer into a box and it's only 1/8" clearance from the rear to the wall, how much air do you think gets into a vented pole piece? And how many installers or novice DIY's take this into account when figuring out the power handling of the woofer? A woofer with this design can easily handle 500-1000 watts (which, incidentally is a metric s-ton of power), but only when the technology is fully deployed. Plug that vented to the pole piece, or restrict air to it, and watch the power handling plummet. I've seen it happen many times. I actually got to see a woofer splode in a clear box once. Probably one of the coolest things I ever got to see in an audio test lab.

Oh, and for Kyle, you may want to look at the new DD products. I got to hear 3 8's in tandem in pretty small enclosures, and I was very impressed with their output. Can only imagine what their new 12" will do if done right. Small company, USA made, and not incredibly expensive.

Big Mack

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Old US Amps, no flea market power ratings!

Don't know why I didn't think of DD, I ran a 9515 ported in a couple different cars years ago and that was a great sub. I'll have to check out what they've got now.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Awesome, US old school is bomb DD is sweet as is FI, cant go wrong with DC Audio if you want a woofer to handle power, however if you get too high of a series woofer, it wont move LMAO, DC series 5 are hella TIGHT (in the literal sense ) Cactus Sound are pretty tough too. Atomic is a unsung hero as well (Manhattan or better) Those are all SPL type woofers btw

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Thanks jokster I'll check those out.

alan311

Tried ground isolator? http://vortexaudioexpress.com/store/images/b25n.jpg

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

alternator whine usually is caused by power wires too close to signal wires (if not factory system)

THE.K.W.C

your high. keep the kickers and toss that rockford garbage away