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HOW-TO: SC300/SC400 Install Aftermarket Head Unit, OEM Speakers and Sub Working!
#466
Thanks creating this thread!
I ordered my deck last week having only read the the thread on the how-to DIN install (hybrid Metra/factory mounts) so I ordered the Metra wiring harness as well only to plug it in Tuesday at close to midnight to find no power up of the deck
I did some googling and came across this thread Tuesday night, so yesterday I bought the all the items necessary and went at it. I was successful in getting all the speakers to work along with the sub and power antenna. I also used that optional ground off the chassis to wire up two ground cables to a relay for the e-brake bypass for my Pioneer X950BH.
Only warning I have is after 16+ years of baking in the sun the ABS plastic sub grill didn't like being pulled up on! It broke in quite a few places so I had bust out the good ol' duct tape to give it from structure again LOL.
I ordered my deck last week having only read the the thread on the how-to DIN install (hybrid Metra/factory mounts) so I ordered the Metra wiring harness as well only to plug it in Tuesday at close to midnight to find no power up of the deck
I did some googling and came across this thread Tuesday night, so yesterday I bought the all the items necessary and went at it. I was successful in getting all the speakers to work along with the sub and power antenna. I also used that optional ground off the chassis to wire up two ground cables to a relay for the e-brake bypass for my Pioneer X950BH.
Only warning I have is after 16+ years of baking in the sun the ABS plastic sub grill didn't like being pulled up on! It broke in quite a few places so I had bust out the good ol' duct tape to give it from structure again LOL.
#467
Thanks creating this thread!
I ordered my deck last week having only read the the thread on the how-to DIN install (hybrid Metra/factory mounts) so I ordered the Metra wiring harness as well only to plug it in Tuesday at close to midnight to find no power up of the deck
I did some googling and came across this thread Tuesday night, so yesterday I bought the all the items necessary and went at it. I was successful in getting all the speakers to work along with the sub and power antenna. I also used that optional ground off the chassis to wire up two ground cables to a relay for the e-brake bypass for my Pioneer X950BH.
Only warning I have is after 16+ years of baking in the sun the ABS plastic sub grill didn't like being pulled up on! It broke in quite a few places so I had bust out the good ol' duct tape to give it from structure again LOL.
I ordered my deck last week having only read the the thread on the how-to DIN install (hybrid Metra/factory mounts) so I ordered the Metra wiring harness as well only to plug it in Tuesday at close to midnight to find no power up of the deck
I did some googling and came across this thread Tuesday night, so yesterday I bought the all the items necessary and went at it. I was successful in getting all the speakers to work along with the sub and power antenna. I also used that optional ground off the chassis to wire up two ground cables to a relay for the e-brake bypass for my Pioneer X950BH.
Only warning I have is after 16+ years of baking in the sun the ABS plastic sub grill didn't like being pulled up on! It broke in quite a few places so I had bust out the good ol' duct tape to give it from structure again LOL.
#468
#470
Chicago Lexus Club Moderator
So much drama over Metra harness. First off, it does work but ...
1. Ground the stereo to the body. Don't use the ground from the harness because you'll get noise.
2. There are two power antenna wires and two antenna connections (FM and AM). The stock radio flips one of the power antennas for FM and the other for AM. You'll most likely use FM with your aftermarket headunit so you'll use only the top power antenna wire in your harness.
Also, per Metra dash kit. You must use the metallic bracket, because it's used to hold the whole center console in place. Without it, the center console will get wobbly and make all kinds of creaking noises.
1. Ground the stereo to the body. Don't use the ground from the harness because you'll get noise.
2. There are two power antenna wires and two antenna connections (FM and AM). The stock radio flips one of the power antennas for FM and the other for AM. You'll most likely use FM with your aftermarket headunit so you'll use only the top power antenna wire in your harness.
Also, per Metra dash kit. You must use the metallic bracket, because it's used to hold the whole center console in place. Without it, the center console will get wobbly and make all kinds of creaking noises.
#471
Driver School Candidate
Thank you very much for this great post, I follow the instructions, every thing work fine, however one thing is remaining which is the antenna, the reception a bit not clear as the OEM pioneer radio, I connect A1 with A8, the antenna goes up and down but once I switch the radio off, I hear a spark sound from the speakers, I disconnect A1 from A8, the spark sound goes (still connecting A1), and the antenna goes up and down without spark sound . but is it the cause of low quality radio reception? or I should connect the "diversity antenna" ?? because I use only the big antenna connection.
Thanks
Thanks
#472
Thank you very much for this great post, I follow the instructions, every thing work fine, however one thing is remaining which is the antenna, the reception a bit not clear as the OEM pioneer radio, I connect A1 with A8, the antenna goes up and down but once I switch the radio off, I hear a spark sound from the speakers, I disconnect A1 from A8, the spark sound goes (still connecting A1), and the antenna goes up and down without spark sound . but is it the cause of low quality radio reception? or I should connect the "diversity antenna" ?? because I use only the big antenna connection.
Thanks
Thanks
#473
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2012
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I have the pioneer sub amp out of asc300 / sc400. I can not figure out which is the power wire, ground, and low line inputs. Can you pleas complete thediagram you have listed on the firs page so I may use this amp in a different vehicle/setup. Thanks
#474
So much drama over Metra harness. First off, it does work but ...
1. Ground the stereo to the body. Don't use the ground from the harness because you'll get noise.
2. There are two power antenna wires and two antenna connections (FM and AM). The stock radio flips one of the power antennas for FM and the other for AM. You'll most likely use FM with your aftermarket headunit so you'll use only the top power antenna wire in your harness.
Also, per Metra dash kit. You must use the metallic bracket, because it's used to hold the whole center console in place. Without it, the center console will get wobbly and make all kinds of creaking noises.
1. Ground the stereo to the body. Don't use the ground from the harness because you'll get noise.
2. There are two power antenna wires and two antenna connections (FM and AM). The stock radio flips one of the power antennas for FM and the other for AM. You'll most likely use FM with your aftermarket headunit so you'll use only the top power antenna wire in your harness.
Also, per Metra dash kit. You must use the metallic bracket, because it's used to hold the whole center console in place. Without it, the center console will get wobbly and make all kinds of creaking noises.
However, when it comes to completing the sub amp / radio antenna wiring there was no METRA harness used if you follow this thread. So this is why I'm confused and wondering if anyone can provide assistance with this problem. Thanks!
#475
Chicago Lexus Club Moderator
Question, after I did the sub amp wiring (along with everything else using the METRA kit) my radio antenna rises even if I'm not using the radio. Can anyone provide any help with that? My head unit is the new Pioneer APPRADIO 3.
However, when it comes to completing the sub amp / radio antenna wiring there was no METRA harness used if you follow this thread. So this is why I'm confused and wondering if anyone can provide assistance with this problem. Thanks!
However, when it comes to completing the sub amp / radio antenna wiring there was no METRA harness used if you follow this thread. So this is why I'm confused and wondering if anyone can provide assistance with this problem. Thanks!
#476
Damn, that really sucks. I might just disconnect the wire so that it never goes up. The radio antenna makes that car look awful when it's up in my opinion.
#477
Chicago Lexus Club Moderator
You could install a low profile antenna and install it somewhere off sight. That's what I'm in the process of doing.
#478
I have a Nakamichi system and I did a bunch of wire running, speaker swapping and then some. As far as wiring up my new unit (pioneer 4500BT) I used the Metra harness with the RCA's on it. Whilst using the factory Nakamichi system, all speakers played, when I then switched the head unit and used that Metra harness, the sound was nowhere near the factory setup. There was also a very annoying pooping sound when I'd turn on/off the radio/car. My solution for that was a double ground. I used the ground from the harness and I then grounded that ground to the chassis. No more popping noise.
Weeks go by and I can’t stand the crappy sound so I hooked up a Memphis 600w 4 channel amp. I used the connector from the Nakamichi amplifier to figure out what speaker was which by using the write up on the first page for the pioneer amp. It's not exact but its close and I figured it out. After getting all the wires hooked up to the new Memphis amplifier, there was sound. It was good and clear.... for like a half hour... The amp would get INSANELY HOT within 5 minutes of low volume music. I then realized that one of my tweeters were simply toast. Toasted to the point where I could see the plastic bubbling from the speakers leads! I proceeded to then disconnect both tweeters. The amp was still getting hot! I couldn't understand! I then hard wired the front speakers; (by using the factory plug outside of the speaker pod.) the amp was still getting hot. I then separated the speaker pod. Inside of there is the capacitor for the tweeter. The strange thing is though, the input wires go into the tweeter first it seems and then to your driver. I removed that crossover, installed a set of component tweeters, got rid of the 4" and mounted a 5.25" inch speaker inside. Totally different sound afterwards! And as far as the amplifier, nice and cool! Next to be replaced are the rear speakers.
I was also able to use the factory subwoofer as well. I did that with a Kenwood Excelon 5ch amp. The gain did have to be set low but it worked and sounded way better than it did using the Metra harness on the factory Nakamichi amp.
I hope this might help anyone.
Weeks go by and I can’t stand the crappy sound so I hooked up a Memphis 600w 4 channel amp. I used the connector from the Nakamichi amplifier to figure out what speaker was which by using the write up on the first page for the pioneer amp. It's not exact but its close and I figured it out. After getting all the wires hooked up to the new Memphis amplifier, there was sound. It was good and clear.... for like a half hour... The amp would get INSANELY HOT within 5 minutes of low volume music. I then realized that one of my tweeters were simply toast. Toasted to the point where I could see the plastic bubbling from the speakers leads! I proceeded to then disconnect both tweeters. The amp was still getting hot! I couldn't understand! I then hard wired the front speakers; (by using the factory plug outside of the speaker pod.) the amp was still getting hot. I then separated the speaker pod. Inside of there is the capacitor for the tweeter. The strange thing is though, the input wires go into the tweeter first it seems and then to your driver. I removed that crossover, installed a set of component tweeters, got rid of the 4" and mounted a 5.25" inch speaker inside. Totally different sound afterwards! And as far as the amplifier, nice and cool! Next to be replaced are the rear speakers.
I was also able to use the factory subwoofer as well. I did that with a Kenwood Excelon 5ch amp. The gain did have to be set low but it worked and sounded way better than it did using the Metra harness on the factory Nakamichi amp.
I hope this might help anyone.
#479
I have a Nakamichi system and I did a bunch of wire running, speaker swapping and then some. As far as wiring up my new unit (pioneer 4500BT) I used the Metra harness with the RCA's on it. Whilst using the factory Nakamichi system, all speakers played, when I then switched the head unit and used that Metra harness, the sound was nowhere near the factory setup. There was also a very annoying pooping sound when I'd turn on/off the radio/car. My solution for that was a double ground. I used the ground from the harness and I then grounded that ground to the chassis. No more popping noise.
Weeks go by and I can’t stand the crappy sound so I hooked up a Memphis 600w 4 channel amp. I used the connector from the Nakamichi amplifier to figure out what speaker was which by using the write up on the first page for the pioneer amp. It's not exact but its close and I figured it out. After getting all the wires hooked up to the new Memphis amplifier, there was sound. It was good and clear.... for like a half hour... The amp would get INSANELY HOT within 5 minutes of low volume music. I then realized that one of my tweeters were simply toast. Toasted to the point where I could see the plastic bubbling from the speakers leads! I proceeded to then disconnect both tweeters. The amp was still getting hot! I couldn't understand! I then hard wired the front speakers; (by using the factory plug outside of the speaker pod.) the amp was still getting hot. I then separated the speaker pod. Inside of there is the capacitor for the tweeter. The strange thing is though, the input wires go into the tweeter first it seems and then to your driver. I removed that crossover, installed a set of component tweeters, got rid of the 4" and mounted a 5.25" inch speaker inside. Totally different sound afterwards! And as far as the amplifier, nice and cool! Next to be replaced are the rear speakers.
I was also able to use the factory subwoofer as well. I did that with a Kenwood Excelon 5ch amp. The gain did have to be set low but it worked and sounded way better than it did using the Metra harness on the factory Nakamichi amp.
I hope this might help anyone.
Weeks go by and I can’t stand the crappy sound so I hooked up a Memphis 600w 4 channel amp. I used the connector from the Nakamichi amplifier to figure out what speaker was which by using the write up on the first page for the pioneer amp. It's not exact but its close and I figured it out. After getting all the wires hooked up to the new Memphis amplifier, there was sound. It was good and clear.... for like a half hour... The amp would get INSANELY HOT within 5 minutes of low volume music. I then realized that one of my tweeters were simply toast. Toasted to the point where I could see the plastic bubbling from the speakers leads! I proceeded to then disconnect both tweeters. The amp was still getting hot! I couldn't understand! I then hard wired the front speakers; (by using the factory plug outside of the speaker pod.) the amp was still getting hot. I then separated the speaker pod. Inside of there is the capacitor for the tweeter. The strange thing is though, the input wires go into the tweeter first it seems and then to your driver. I removed that crossover, installed a set of component tweeters, got rid of the 4" and mounted a 5.25" inch speaker inside. Totally different sound afterwards! And as far as the amplifier, nice and cool! Next to be replaced are the rear speakers.
I was also able to use the factory subwoofer as well. I did that with a Kenwood Excelon 5ch amp. The gain did have to be set low but it worked and sounded way better than it did using the Metra harness on the factory Nakamichi amp.
I hope this might help anyone.
#480
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: bc
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help pls
Now that I think of it, I could be wrong about the original amp not powering the F&R speakers along with the subwoofer. Perhaps you are actually right, and this one amp powered F&R and the subwoofers in 1992 SCs, rather than having a separate amp for the subwoofer as in later SCs.
hi furySc400 im new here and i did my research, i might have miss it, but can u help me out pls
i have the same set up all my speaker and headunit (i have a boss double din deck) is working fine at the moment except the sub. im not sure how to connect it to get ti working
i have the 93 sc400
thanks