///MDex

Speaker: 4 Ga
This is what I *think* the guy helping me told me they use for standard installation.

I've been told that this will suffice for my components. I mean, I don't want the cheapest crap wire, and I use MC at home, but would I realize a return on my investment in thicker gauge wire?
What good does it do me to have pretty nice components, and crap wire, y'know?

ALSO

Power
The cable that runs from the battery to the Amp - forgive me, I don't know what the setup is called - but I remember the guy grabbing another Monster Cable package off the shelf.

Do they come in different ratings to handle different amounts of power? I'm guessing I should make a step up there as well?

Thanks

Mean Gene

Dex - Yep, the 4 awg will be fine for the speakers; in fact, some amps may not have large enough terminals to handle anything over 8 awg. Yes, that battery to amp wire IS called a power wire & U should use the same size ground wire as well. The gauge wire is really dependent on the total amperage draw of your system, assuming U're going back with a single power wire to a distribution block ( for multiple amps ). Just add up your total amperage draw of ALL your amps & measure how far the distance is from the battery/fuse to the amp. There's a table in both the USAC & IASCA rulebooks that serves as a guideline for sizing power wires & allows for a .5 VDC voltage drop. For example, with am amperage draw of between 100-150 & a distance of up to 20 feet, U'd need 1 awg to comply with the rules. Monster Cable's a good product as it's oxygen free copper & has large terminals. If ya don't have the paperwork on your amps listing the amperage draw, just use the fuse rating they suggest as a rough guide. If U need to, U can PM me or any of the competition guys like Retro, Percy, or Spyke as I'm sure they also have the same rulebooks as I have.
BTW - I DID manage to find one of your duplicate posts ( with RA's help ) & deleted it for ya but I think your first one has pics of your front lip that aren't one the last one so I left THAT one.

///MDex

Head....spinning....must...get...utility belt.



Thanks MG.

I also sent a fax to my contact at the stereo shop communicating my concerns / questions about the wiring gauges, so I'll be interested in seeing what he comes back with...

I've got this amp lined up:

Alpine V12 Series MRV-F357

Max Power (EIAJ) 90Wx4+300W (4 ohm Stereo) 240Wx2+300W (Bridged 4ohm
• RMS Continuous Power (Watt) at 12.0V 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 30Wx4+(0.3% THD) 100x1 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 40x4 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 80x2+(0.3% THD) 100x1
• 14.4V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 50Wx4+150x1 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 60x4 Bridged 4 - (0.3% THD) 120x2+150x1
• S/N Ratio 100dBA
• 12dB HP/LP Crossover (50-200Hz)
• Bass EQ Circuit
• Extra Large Gold Plated Terminals with Wire Insert Capability
• Top Panel Power LED
• 4 Volt Input Capability
• Continuously Adjustable Crossovers
• DC Straight, STAR Topology & Duo-B Circuitry
• DC-DC/PWM MOSFET Power Supply

Mean Gene

Dex - Still need the amperage draw on that V-12. I figure that with a total output of close to 700 watts ( depending on your configuration ), I'd guess at a 40-50 amp draw. If so & guessing that the amp's mounted in the trunk ( 12-15 foot power wire run distance ), try for at least 4 awg & 2 awg would be even better. U won't need the really thick stuff ( 0 or 1 awg ) until the amperage draw reaches 125+.

///MDex

The only mention of amps is a blip in the pdf that mentions using a 50 amp fuse as close as possible to the battery's possitive terminal to protect the car's electrical system..

I appreciate your help, but if this isn't the data you're looking for, don't worry about it. You've already stated the MC power cable setup would work, so that's proof positive enough for me.

Thanks

2Lexos

am i reading this right .......4ga for speakers? i'd like to see that.....i've been doing car audio for 11 years and that's something i've never seen before.....and i've seen people use home extension cords for power wire!! i hope you guys are joking.

///MDex

I have some clarifications, AND some new questions, to post shortly.....

Mean Gene

2Lexos - Guess I need to clarify my statement. It'd be major overkill to use 4 awg on component speakers but I've been into car audio for over 20 years & we've put 4 awg terminals on some serious SPL systems. We even did that back in 1987 on our shop's USAC World Champion SPL van but remember that I live in the birthplace of SPL. Heck, we were spraying rubberized undercoating on the van's interior way before the advent of Dynamat!! Glad ya caught my slipup!! I'm only running 8 awg to my RF subs & Focal components myself.

///MDex

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=27779

2Lexos

Yeah Mean Gene, i agree with you on the sub end of the install with some major power.....i've used 10ga and even 8ga for speakers(subs) but for components i think it's way to extreme. Fun Fact: I have a first place SPL trophy for USAC from back in the day.......4-15inch Kickers running off a Punch 40!! No bull*****!! But then again....those of us who know who the stuff works can push it to the limit!!!

Mean Gene

2Lex - It was amps like the Punch 40 ( 40 watts - yeah, SURE!! ) back in the mid-80's that kicked my butt in my first competitions until I cornered an RF rep to find out about the "inside" story. First exposure to ohm loads as well - saw a guy with (4) M&M 15" woofers ( remember those? ) & a single Punch 40 do a low 140 dB on a B&K!! Back then those were big numbers. Lots of internal mods ( cheating, I'd say! ) but the rules weren't as clear cut about power ratings as they R today. U'd think that with the improvements in amplifiers that impedance stability would be better - seen a friend drop his Orion "Red" amp into a 1/2 ohm load & it played forever!! Ah, the good old dayz!!!