amp for 10' JL free air sub
#1
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I purchased a 10' JL free air sub but I'm not sure what kind of amp would be best. The sub max is 150watt.
I'm looking at a PPI5440 with
-- 4 Ohm: 60W x 2 Channels
-- 2 Ohm: 120W x 2 Channels
-- 4 Ohm Bridged: 240W x 1 Channel
Would this be a good combination???
Thanks in advance,
I'm looking at a PPI5440 with
-- 4 Ohm: 60W x 2 Channels
-- 2 Ohm: 120W x 2 Channels
-- 4 Ohm Bridged: 240W x 1 Channel
Would this be a good combination???
Thanks in advance,
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Ratings
Sasha & SA - As a rule of thumb, amp & speaker ratings are based on RMS, not peak. For example, my Power 1100a2 is rated at 1100watts ( all channels driven into a 2 ohm load ) but the birth certificate shows that it'll do 1344 peak. Back to the amp/speaker combo - it will need to be run in the bridged configuration as JL free-air woofers have an impedance of 8 ohms. Just bridge the amp & it will yield the 4 ohm mono rated power of 240 watts rms as a bridged amp "sees" half of the speaker's rated impedance. This power rating will leave plenty of juice in reserve for dynamic headroom & bass transients.
#5
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WOW! Where did you find a 10' JL sub, and how did you even fit it in your car to carry it home? I didn't know they made one bigger than 15". The magnet alone must weigh 4 tons! I don't even want to know what kind of amp you need to power a monster like that! j/k hahahaha
#6
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PPI 5440
Silvaristo,
I believe the PPI 5440 is a 5 channel sub. Also, the specs are 30W X 4 @ 4 ohms + 120W x 1 @ 4 ohms(sub). I don't believe the 120W@ 4 ohms is adequate for the JL sub since it is an 8 ohm sub. If you plan on just adding a JL 10" sub, a mono or 2-channel amp bridged would be better(200W+).
If you plan on replacing all speakers, the 5440 may work, but there are alternatives:
1) A 3- or 4- channel amp with passive outs for rear fill speakers (such as Xtant or Precision Power). This would power the whole system when the rear attenuation module is used for the rear speakers.
2) Any 3- or 4- channel amp when used with speaker systems that have crossovers with an additional output for rear fill speakers (such as Diamond Audio).
An advantage to a 5- or 6- channel amp for the system allows for front to rear fade control.
As for the JL sub, it is rated for 100 watts continuous power and 150 watts peak power AT 8 OHMS! Therefore, a good match might be a 200-300 watt amp at @ 4 ohms.
If you are replacing all speakers, the Precision Power PC line would be best. For just the sub, their PPI models should suffice. Look for something that accepts a remote bass control **** for up front! I plan on using the Phoenix Gold XS2300 amp(300W @ 4 ohm bridged) with the LPL44 remote.(PG is mid level quality and not too expensive).
Tom
I believe the PPI 5440 is a 5 channel sub. Also, the specs are 30W X 4 @ 4 ohms + 120W x 1 @ 4 ohms(sub). I don't believe the 120W@ 4 ohms is adequate for the JL sub since it is an 8 ohm sub. If you plan on just adding a JL 10" sub, a mono or 2-channel amp bridged would be better(200W+).
If you plan on replacing all speakers, the 5440 may work, but there are alternatives:
1) A 3- or 4- channel amp with passive outs for rear fill speakers (such as Xtant or Precision Power). This would power the whole system when the rear attenuation module is used for the rear speakers.
2) Any 3- or 4- channel amp when used with speaker systems that have crossovers with an additional output for rear fill speakers (such as Diamond Audio).
An advantage to a 5- or 6- channel amp for the system allows for front to rear fade control.
As for the JL sub, it is rated for 100 watts continuous power and 150 watts peak power AT 8 OHMS! Therefore, a good match might be a 200-300 watt amp at @ 4 ohms.
If you are replacing all speakers, the Precision Power PC line would be best. For just the sub, their PPI models should suffice. Look for something that accepts a remote bass control **** for up front! I plan on using the Phoenix Gold XS2300 amp(300W @ 4 ohm bridged) with the LPL44 remote.(PG is mid level quality and not too expensive).
Tom
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