Improving Bass in GS400
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
LLC
An LLC is a line level converter used to convert speaker-out lines prior to connection to the amp. Some amps have a balanced input that accepts line level inputs.(i.e. Xtant). The downside to converters seems to be that signal is amplified by the head unit then down-converted and then amplified again which adds noise. If I am correct, I believe the Xtant amps will take a line level out input and add amplification to it, reducing the potential for added noise. Maybe someone else can explain this better.
Tom
Tom
#17
Lexus Test Driver
Kenwood's Fine!
JR - IMO, Kenwood has good, solid middle of the pack equipment. I've used it before in the wife's auto w/no probs - wouldn't compete with it but I don think the competitor is the demographic group Kenwood's shooting for today. I looked up the specs on the KAC-819 & already know of the 10IB4 & it seems like an excellent match with plenty of power in reserve for those bass transients & dynamic headroom. As previously mentioned by Tom & yourself, actually ( in your original post ), U won't need a LLC ( line level converter ) since the 819 has speaker inputs instead ( or in addition to ) RCA inputs ( not sure if it offers both but it doesn't matter, does it? ) Just use the X-over for low pass signals & I really think the extra power will bring the Jl to life!! Enjoy!!
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
JR
JR, glad to hear it worked out.
I plan to try a similar setup, although I will be using a Pheonix Gold XS2300 amp for the sub.
Questions--
1) Where did you access the signal for the sub? My installer suggests tapping into the rear speaker signal with a line level converter.
2) Did the JL 10IB4 require any modifications to the rear deck panel or did it drop right in? Any custom baffle needed? New drill holes needed? I plan on using Dynamat on the rear deck as well(on top of deck/under matting)
3) Did you install a remote bass control? Where did you place the ****?
4) Where did you place the amp? I was considering on the back of the rear seats.
5) Where did you tap the remote turn on connection?
6) Anything I should be considering?
Thanks for anyone's suggestions.
For now, I'm just replacing the sub and then I'll evaluate the sound. Replacing the rest of the speakers seems much more involved. It really requires a new head unit to do any justice to a set of Dynaudios or the like, and I don't want to change the console's appearance. Using the stock head unit does not provide a superior signal to begin with and a new amp will require LLCs (or equipped amp) which will degrade the signal and lose information. There just does not seem to be an easy modification to achieve superior sound quality, and I'm not prepared to shell out the dough for the systems some of you have installed.
I hope I get some satisfaction from the new sub though.
Tom
I plan to try a similar setup, although I will be using a Pheonix Gold XS2300 amp for the sub.
Questions--
1) Where did you access the signal for the sub? My installer suggests tapping into the rear speaker signal with a line level converter.
2) Did the JL 10IB4 require any modifications to the rear deck panel or did it drop right in? Any custom baffle needed? New drill holes needed? I plan on using Dynamat on the rear deck as well(on top of deck/under matting)
3) Did you install a remote bass control? Where did you place the ****?
4) Where did you place the amp? I was considering on the back of the rear seats.
5) Where did you tap the remote turn on connection?
6) Anything I should be considering?
Thanks for anyone's suggestions.
For now, I'm just replacing the sub and then I'll evaluate the sound. Replacing the rest of the speakers seems much more involved. It really requires a new head unit to do any justice to a set of Dynaudios or the like, and I don't want to change the console's appearance. Using the stock head unit does not provide a superior signal to begin with and a new amp will require LLCs (or equipped amp) which will degrade the signal and lose information. There just does not seem to be an easy modification to achieve superior sound quality, and I'm not prepared to shell out the dough for the systems some of you have installed.
I hope I get some satisfaction from the new sub though.
Tom
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Changing the sub made a HUGE difference in the quality of the sound in the car. I am very happy and actually surprised at the quality of the JL. It sounds like 2 10s, not one. To answer your questions -
1) Where did you access the signal for the sub? My installer suggests tapping into the rear speaker signal with a line level converter.
I Did just what your installer suggested
but the amp I chose has a built in speaker input
so the LLC wasn't necessary.
2) Did the JL 10IB4 require any modifications to the rear deck panel or did it drop right in? Any custom baffle needed? New drill holes needed? I plan on using Dynamat on the rear deck as well(on top of deck/under matting)
It did not drop right in. the hole in the deck is
actually slightly larger than the hole circle drilled
in the sub. I put the sub in the hole, and used sheet
metal screws to create a "pressure fit" and then
sealed the sub from the bottom of the deck with a
bead of silicon. Not the cleanest or best way to
do it, but it works, and no one is the wiser. You
will definitely need the dynamat as I learned as
soon as I powered it up the first time. The friggin
center seat belt tensioner rattles like hell!
3) Did you install a remote bass control? Where did you place the ****?
No, but I do have to turn the bass on the head unit
down to -2 now. It hasn't affected the overall sound
negatively though. It sounds GREAT!
4) Where did you place the amp? I was considering on the back of the rear seats.
I put it on the raised portion of the trunk that is
directly behind the seat.
5) Where did you tap the remote turn on connection?
I used a spade connector and plugged it into an
unused terminal on the fuse block that is only on
when the key is on. This is located on the right side
of the passenger footwell.
6) Anything I should be considering?
Definitely consider making this mod asap. I can't
believe the difference it made. I wish I had known
about the dynamat beforehand because I would
have put it all over the top of the deck. Right now
I only have it on the bottom. It is a serious pain
to take of the deck cover so I don't wan't to put any
on the top. Getting the LLC is a good idea because
even though I have my amp's sensetivity turned
all the way down, it is still a little loud (that's why
I have the bass on the head unit turned to -2)
DO IT!
1) Where did you access the signal for the sub? My installer suggests tapping into the rear speaker signal with a line level converter.
I Did just what your installer suggested
but the amp I chose has a built in speaker input
so the LLC wasn't necessary.
2) Did the JL 10IB4 require any modifications to the rear deck panel or did it drop right in? Any custom baffle needed? New drill holes needed? I plan on using Dynamat on the rear deck as well(on top of deck/under matting)
It did not drop right in. the hole in the deck is
actually slightly larger than the hole circle drilled
in the sub. I put the sub in the hole, and used sheet
metal screws to create a "pressure fit" and then
sealed the sub from the bottom of the deck with a
bead of silicon. Not the cleanest or best way to
do it, but it works, and no one is the wiser. You
will definitely need the dynamat as I learned as
soon as I powered it up the first time. The friggin
center seat belt tensioner rattles like hell!
3) Did you install a remote bass control? Where did you place the ****?
No, but I do have to turn the bass on the head unit
down to -2 now. It hasn't affected the overall sound
negatively though. It sounds GREAT!
4) Where did you place the amp? I was considering on the back of the rear seats.
I put it on the raised portion of the trunk that is
directly behind the seat.
5) Where did you tap the remote turn on connection?
I used a spade connector and plugged it into an
unused terminal on the fuse block that is only on
when the key is on. This is located on the right side
of the passenger footwell.
6) Anything I should be considering?
Definitely consider making this mod asap. I can't
believe the difference it made. I wish I had known
about the dynamat beforehand because I would
have put it all over the top of the deck. Right now
I only have it on the bottom. It is a serious pain
to take of the deck cover so I don't wan't to put any
on the top. Getting the LLC is a good idea because
even though I have my amp's sensetivity turned
all the way down, it is still a little loud (that's why
I have the bass on the head unit turned to -2)
DO IT!
#21
JR,
I was just reading through your thread, and was thinking about doing the same thing to my new GS. I was wondering if you got the amp hooked up? How does it sound? Are you happy with the improvement or do you think I should sacrifice trunk space and go for an inclosure?
I was just reading through your thread, and was thinking about doing the same thing to my new GS. I was wondering if you got the amp hooked up? How does it sound? Are you happy with the improvement or do you think I should sacrifice trunk space and go for an inclosure?
#23
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Carlsbad, CA
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Improving Bass in GS400
An alternative to the JL is the Vifa M26WR19. European (Denmark) made IB sub for autosound. Cast aluminum basket. 4 ohms instead of 8. Higher power handling. Same X-Max. Awesome for the price with sub amp and well damped rear deck (dynamat). Check it out at www.madisound.com ... $85. How much is the JL?
I agree that a sealed mounted to the rear deck would sound slightly better, but much more involved install. Depends on how motivated you are.
I agree that a sealed mounted to the rear deck would sound slightly better, but much more involved install. Depends on how motivated you are.
#24
Re: Audio Info
Originally posted by Mean Gene
JR - Try looking in the Lexus Q&A section. Percy & I compiled some general information concerning the audio systems.
JR - Try looking in the Lexus Q&A section. Percy & I compiled some general information concerning the audio systems.
Has anyone done any specific enhancements to the SC430 subwoofer in the back? What did you do?
Last edited by RodF; 06-09-01 at 12:13 AM.
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