Lexus IS350 Illuminated Door Sill Installation - Directions
#16
waxy and glo6035, so you didn't disconnect the battery as per Sewell's instructions? I also bought the illuminated door sills for 3IS but did't find the chance to install it. Time to do it after the nasty winter.
In the past, Lexus illuminated door sills were just plug and play without ANY re-wiring (example - 2011 RX). Then they made it difficult so that some people would be scared off and let the dealership does the work which costs too much labor.
In the past, Lexus illuminated door sills were just plug and play without ANY re-wiring (example - 2011 RX). Then they made it difficult so that some people would be scared off and let the dealership does the work which costs too much labor.
They install and hookup fine without disconnecting the battery, for safety reasons only they want the battery disconnected.
Last edited by glo6035; 03-20-15 at 01:17 AM.
#17
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waxy and glo6035, so you didn't disconnect the battery as per Sewell's instructions? I also bought the illuminated door sills for 3IS but did't find the chance to install it. Time to do it after the nasty winter.
In the past, Lexus illuminated door sills were just plug and play without ANY re-wiring (example - 2011 RX). Then they made it difficult so that some people would be scared off and let the dealership does the work which costs too much labor.
In the past, Lexus illuminated door sills were just plug and play without ANY re-wiring (example - 2011 RX). Then they made it difficult so that some people would be scared off and let the dealership does the work which costs too much labor.
Disconnecting the battery actually helped recalibrate my temperature readings as it was off by 4-5ºF. Also, made my Nav respond a faster, maybe it's from all the cache buildup in the ECU that it needs to be reset.
Aside from that, installation is pretty straight forward, but do take your time.
#18
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Does anyone know if there are special instructions for the t tap connectors? I'm sure it's just putting the wire on the metal, then snapping the case closed. But the instructions say "bend the wire support membranes outward with the wire". Is that necessary? Moreover, what does that even mean?
#19
dont you guys have to tap into two wires on each side? also theres no way you can cut off the wire from the harness from clamping too hard or something from the t-taps right?
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Does anyone know if there are special instructions for the t tap connectors? I'm sure it's just putting the wire on the metal, then snapping the case closed. But the instructions say "bend the wire support membranes outward with the wire". Is that necessary? Moreover, what does that even mean?
Doesn't really matter how you tap/splice as long as it gets the current it needs, tuck everything aside, strap it down and you're good to go.
I recommend using a test light/probe if you're not sure if you're tapping the right wire.
If it helps, should be the purple/lavender wire in the molex, or you can take it at which ever location you prefer.
#21
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Green and Blue on the passenger side.
No need to worry about the T Taps, it clicks when it falls into place.
There's really no way of breaking it unless you're pressing very hard on the pliers.
#22
It's mentioned in the directions because they want you to get a good connection.
Doesn't really matter how you tap/splice as long as it gets the current it needs, tuck everything aside, strap it down and you're good to go.
I recommend using a test light/probe if you're not sure if you're tapping the right wire.
If it helps, should be the purple/lavender wire in the molex, or you can take it at which ever location you prefer.
Doesn't really matter how you tap/splice as long as it gets the current it needs, tuck everything aside, strap it down and you're good to go.
I recommend using a test light/probe if you're not sure if you're tapping the right wire.
If it helps, should be the purple/lavender wire in the molex, or you can take it at which ever location you prefer.
#23
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*** If you don't feel confident in the installation, moving forward you can have the dealership or any body shop to do it. ***
#24
Almost 3 hours for me too lol. Was scared of breaking clips so taking things apart was slower for me.
need a flat head screw driver to unlock wire harness lock mechanism which the instructions left out. If you dont have nylon prying tool to pop off sills, a flat kitchen knife will slide under it easily without leaving scratches.
Other than that everything is pretty easy. Got scared senseless when i got careless on passenger and plugged blue wire into green ttaps. Luckily it doesnt lock.
need a flat head screw driver to unlock wire harness lock mechanism which the instructions left out. If you dont have nylon prying tool to pop off sills, a flat kitchen knife will slide under it easily without leaving scratches.
Other than that everything is pretty easy. Got scared senseless when i got careless on passenger and plugged blue wire into green ttaps. Luckily it doesnt lock.
#25
AndyL, did you purchase the illuminated door sills from a Canadian dealer? I tried calling to various dealers across Alberta, but I was told they don't have them in Canada yet. How much did the sills cost you?
#26
Lexus Test Driver
Note that there are two versions of illuminated door sills for 3IS. The Japanese version is powered by LED and the set contains only the front set.
The North American version is actually powered by optical fibre and the set contains the front illuminated sills and non-illuminated stainless steel sills for the rear.
The Japanese version is way more expensive than the North American one as they are LED-powered.
Hope it helps.
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