Light weight battery swap..Whos done it?
02-07-14, 09:01 AM
#16
thats not bashing somebody dream by telling them the truth. as heavy as the 2IS is, a lightweight battery does nothing but make your wallet lighter. they dont last by any means. if you are working on weight savings there are far more areas to work vs a lighter battery lol. the general rule is for every 100lbs you gain 1whp. thats almost as bad as folks thinking if you take out the seats and interior youre "weight saving" 
its not bashing or killing somebody dream, we are in fact trying to save the OP from wasting money. its getting to the point you cant even tell people whats good or bad without somebody swooping in to say "your bashing". my old roommate had one on his WRX and that car could never sit more than a week without needing a jump
its not bashing or killing somebody dream, we are in fact trying to save the OP from wasting money. its getting to the point you cant even tell people whats good or bad without somebody swooping in to say "your bashing". my old roommate had one on his WRX and that car could never sit more than a week without needing a jump
Saying it is a BIG waste and that someone should buy a different car rather than change a battery is a bit over the top don't you think?
Lets do the math according to MY experience. If you choose the RIGHT lightweight battery there is nothing that will prevent it from lasting 4 years trouble free. An OEM battery will cost ~$150 and lets say it lasts 6 years.
4 years / $200 --> a light battery costs me ~$50 per year
6 years / $150 --> an OEM battery costs me ~$25 per year
So in my experience a light battery is costing me roughly $2 per month. I'll take it. Along with the associated risk that it won't last 4 years and might end up costing me as much as $10 a month. In my opinion that is a much better proposition than putting 20"+ wheels and tires on the car and living with diminished performance and the much higher risk and cost of replacing blown tires and broken wheels due to potholes.
Different strokes for different folks.
Stinger batteries are re-badged Odyssey batteries. Good batteries, prices go up and down so sometimes its better to buy the equivalent Stinger.
02-07-14, 12:36 PM
#17
thats not bashing somebody dream by telling them the truth. as heavy as the 2IS is, a lightweight battery does nothing but make your wallet lighter. they dont last by any means. if you are working on weight savings there are far more areas to work vs a lighter battery lol. the general rule is for every 100lbs you gain 1whp.
I'm not exactly sure how whp would translate ... I was thinking that the HP will stay the same, but the amount of weight the car needs to move is reduced ... not too familiar with it.
02-07-14, 01:15 PM
#19
Your experience and opinion say they are a waste. My experience and opinion say they are not.
Saying it is a BIG waste and that someone should buy a different car rather than change a battery is a bit over the top don't you think?
Lets do the math according to MY experience. If you choose the RIGHT lightweight battery there is nothing that will prevent it from lasting 4 years trouble free. An OEM battery will cost ~$150 and lets say it lasts 6 years.
4 years / $200 --> a light battery costs me ~$50 per year
6 years / $150 --> an OEM battery costs me ~$25 per year
So in my experience a light battery is costing me roughly $2 per month. I'll take it. Along with the associated risk that it won't last 4 years and might end up costing me as much as $10 a month. In my opinion that is a much better proposition than putting 20"+ wheels and tires on the car and living with diminished performance and the much higher risk and cost of replacing blown tires and broken wheels due to potholes.
Different strokes for different folks.
Stinger batteries are re-badged Odyssey batteries. Good batteries, prices go up and down so sometimes its better to buy the equivalent Stinger.
Saying it is a BIG waste and that someone should buy a different car rather than change a battery is a bit over the top don't you think?
Lets do the math according to MY experience. If you choose the RIGHT lightweight battery there is nothing that will prevent it from lasting 4 years trouble free. An OEM battery will cost ~$150 and lets say it lasts 6 years.
4 years / $200 --> a light battery costs me ~$50 per year
6 years / $150 --> an OEM battery costs me ~$25 per year
So in my experience a light battery is costing me roughly $2 per month. I'll take it. Along with the associated risk that it won't last 4 years and might end up costing me as much as $10 a month. In my opinion that is a much better proposition than putting 20"+ wheels and tires on the car and living with diminished performance and the much higher risk and cost of replacing blown tires and broken wheels due to potholes.
Different strokes for different folks.
Stinger batteries are re-badged Odyssey batteries. Good batteries, prices go up and down so sometimes its better to buy the equivalent Stinger.
The battery weight is significant relative to the total amount of weight OP wants to reduce.
I'm not exactly sure how whp would translate ... I was thinking that the HP will stay the same, but the amount of weight the car needs to move is reduced ... not too familiar with it.
I'm not exactly sure how whp would translate ... I was thinking that the HP will stay the same, but the amount of weight the car needs to move is reduced ... not too familiar with it.
What I meant was not the whp goes up of the car. The power/weight ratio will increase. But the amount it would take to see an increase in these cars, the battery alone is not helping or hurting
02-08-14, 06:52 PM
#22
From reading on the net, Braille batteries are made by deka
the b3121 equiv, apparently, is Deka ETX30L. It will be less expensive.
You (in the States, not me in Canada) can get the ETX30L for <$100.
Shaving 20 lbs off the weight of the car in general is not going to get you the same as shaving 20 lbs off the wheels/rims, which is what I think someone was suggesting. Because you have to spin them, wheels/rims have a moment of inertia to overcome which dead weight, like the battery does not have to overcome. Losing 20 lbs off the wheels/rims might make a noticeable difference in a 1/4 mile time. From the battery, by itself, you would never notice it. Maybe in the 100ths column, but not in the 10ths column. If the goal is to lose 250 lbs, I expect you'd notice that, and every little bit, battery, spare tire, both from the trunk and from around your waist is going to help.
the b3121 equiv, apparently, is Deka ETX30L. It will be less expensive.
You (in the States, not me in Canada) can get the ETX30L for <$100.
Shaving 20 lbs off the weight of the car in general is not going to get you the same as shaving 20 lbs off the wheels/rims, which is what I think someone was suggesting. Because you have to spin them, wheels/rims have a moment of inertia to overcome which dead weight, like the battery does not have to overcome. Losing 20 lbs off the wheels/rims might make a noticeable difference in a 1/4 mile time. From the battery, by itself, you would never notice it. Maybe in the 100ths column, but not in the 10ths column. If the goal is to lose 250 lbs, I expect you'd notice that, and every little bit, battery, spare tire, both from the trunk and from around your waist is going to help.
02-10-14, 06:50 AM
#23
From reading on the net, Braille batteries are made by deka
the b3121 equiv, apparently, is Deka ETX30L. It will be less expensive.
You (in the States, not me in Canada) can get the ETX30L for <$100.
Shaving 20 lbs off the weight of the car in general is not going to get you the same as shaving 20 lbs off the wheels/rims, which is what I think someone was suggesting. Because you have to spin them, wheels/rims have a moment of inertia to overcome which dead weight, like the battery does not have to overcome. Losing 20 lbs off the wheels/rims might make a noticeable difference in a 1/4 mile time. From the battery, by itself, you would never notice it. Maybe in the 100ths column, but not in the 10ths column. If the goal is to lose 250 lbs, I expect you'd notice that, and every little bit, battery, spare tire, both from the trunk and from around your waist is going to help.
the b3121 equiv, apparently, is Deka ETX30L. It will be less expensive.
You (in the States, not me in Canada) can get the ETX30L for <$100.
Shaving 20 lbs off the weight of the car in general is not going to get you the same as shaving 20 lbs off the wheels/rims, which is what I think someone was suggesting. Because you have to spin them, wheels/rims have a moment of inertia to overcome which dead weight, like the battery does not have to overcome. Losing 20 lbs off the wheels/rims might make a noticeable difference in a 1/4 mile time. From the battery, by itself, you would never notice it. Maybe in the 100ths column, but not in the 10ths column. If the goal is to lose 250 lbs, I expect you'd notice that, and every little bit, battery, spare tire, both from the trunk and from around your waist is going to help.
I don’t want to get into this argument about weight…but:
-Yes, it will make a difference, and you will notice it maybe after shaving 100lbs or more. It also depends on the car, if you have a civic with 95hp/ 80lb of torque get a 100lb passenger and drive at an Autox/ track or drag, you WILL feel the obvious difference. In a high HP/ tq car you may not feel it the same but it is there.
-Yes, you can lose your body weight, but that is not improving the actual car, you could also learn how to be a better driver.
-Because the car is heavy you shouldn’t try to shave some weight? So if I have an Elise then it is ok to get lighter parts? I see it the other way around, if the car is really heavy I would like to make it lighter, but that is just me.
-Yes, it depends on WHERE the weight is being pulled from. The front of the car (front engine cars); higher places (roof); unsprong weight (suspension/ wheels/ brakes etc); rotating mass ( again wheels/ rotors/ drive shaft/ engine components)… are the best places.
In theory a lighter car should accelerate/ brake & corner better, also get better MPGs…there are exceptions to this, and it is impossible to determine the improvements with an equation.
I searched for a manual IS250 with 0 options for a long time, but couldn’t find one without sunroof/ power seats…I don’t know if Lexus ever sold one like that LOL
02-12-14, 11:46 AM
#24
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Battery swap is just one of the things im going to do to shave some weight off this pig. I have already knocked off 63 pounds off the weight of the car. I kept 18" wheels and dropped 23 pound. The tires i choose are designed to be lighter i shaved another 8 pounds off. I also removed the spare/jake for a total weight savings of about 63 pounds.
My goal to shave 250 pounds off my IS350. Changing to a lighter battery is a step towards that goal. 25 pounds from a battery change is a no brainer... Ive done the figuring and the other things i have planned i will hit my goal of 250.
My goal to shave 250 pounds off my IS350. Changing to a lighter battery is a step towards that goal. 25 pounds from a battery change is a no brainer... Ive done the figuring and the other things i have planned i will hit my goal of 250.
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WylieKylie
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
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05-18-14 09:39 AM
