dong888

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

I tracked my car for 3 times and brake needs to be replaced. From dealer measurement, front has 3mm and back has only 2 mm (yes, I understand 3mm or less means replacement). Steering shakes a bit when slight hard braking so rotor probably is warped, maybe. I am checking out prices on Sewell. The questions are:

1. Rotors are expensive. $600+ for front and back. Does anyone recommend trying to sand the rotor instead of replacement.
2. A few posts stated using Centric rotor as it is cheap. Is it better OEM or equilavent.
3. Sewell states in the description that it is recommended to replace fitting kit and shim kit at the time of replacing pads. I dont see much threads talking about fitting kit and shim kit. Are those really necessary or help out a lot?
4. I am thinking about buying parts online (most likely at Sewell) and bring them to Exact Motor in Milpitas for labor. Has anyone did the brake job at Exact Motor? And I wonder if I should just have both parts and labor done at Exact Motor.

Your in depth knowledge is much appreciated. I don't know a lot about brakes so please help out. Much thanks in advance.

Sewell links below for reference:

http://is.sewellparts.com/accessorie...2007/2127.html
http://is.sewellparts.com/accessorie...2007/1889.html
http://is.sewellparts.com/accessorie...2007/1949.html
http://is.sewellparts.com/accessorie...2007/1906.html

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Barring improper install, rotors do not warp. What you have is uneven pad transfer.

If it's just started/not bad you can possibly clean it up by rebedding the pads, or failing that cleaning the rotors with a garnet pad.

See here for more details-

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths


If neither the bedding nor garnet pad can fix it you might be able to putting them on a blanchard (centerless) grinder, but by the time you do the labor and find a machine shop willing to do that rather than cheap out with an inferior job on a brake lathe you might as well just replace em.... and yeah centric premium rotors will work fine as OEM replacements.

Sportskid1

iTrader: (1)

If you plan on keeping up with track days I would recommend doing some upgrades with the breaks. After my 3rd track day and 5000 street miles my set of OEM pads completely wore through and ate my rotors. The OEM pads just won't keep up with the track environment.

I am currently running the StopTec StreetPerformance pad which I found the be much better on the track while still being cheap and street friendly. Not quite as durable as a true track pad but much better than the OEM pad.

For rotors the only way to see if they need to be replaces is to check the thickness of them. Most places will do a break check for free and can tell you if they need replaced. If you need replacements I am running Power Slot Cryo Rotors which have held up very well. They are the centric premium rotors that are slotted and cryo treated to help them hold up to the track a bit better but do run about double the price as the centric premium rotors but about equal in price as the OEM rotors. I am sure the centric premium rotors would hold up just fine as well for an occasional track day. Also I would highly recommend upgrading your break fluid to a high temp race fluid. Not fun when you break fluid boild and you loose your beaks at 100mph. I use ATE Super Blue which I have never had an issue with and is pretty inexpensive on AMAZON.

Here is where I generally get my parts as they are the cheapest place I have found.

www.partsgeek.com

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

I also recommend Centric/PowerSlot slotted rotors. I'll be installing a set of new rear slotted rotors with Axxis Ultimate ceramic pads tomorrow. Already have slotted up front with StopTech Streets...which I don't prefer for street use. Until the pads got HOT, they don't tend to give you good initial bite for braking confidence. But like kid1 stated, they can be good for track use...but there's better. I recommend Axxis Ultimates from personal experience, but they're on national back-order.

Dong, what brake fluid and tires go you run while on the track currently?

dong888

iTrader: (1)

Thanks to all for the inputs.

I am just a novice in the tracking world and did 3 times in Infineon and once in Laguna Seca. I believe my tracking days are over since I don't feel like running stock is350 is good on tracks. And I want to keep the car as close to stock as possible. I have a set of michelin ps all season plus (yes, I know. I got them before my friend dragged me to track. It was meant for street driving only, at the time) and oem brake fluid. The front two tires of the ps A/S+ are showing core already at the edge so I need to change them too.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

If you don't plan to track it further, and do actually need rotors, then skip the slotted rotors- they won't do anything for you but eat your pads 25% faster than blank rotors.... OEM centric blanks'll work fine along with the OEM low dust pads.

(if you feel the loss of pad life is worth the look and/or do plan to track the car decently often, knock yourself out though, unlike drilled rotors the slots won't hurt other than pad life)

GiantsFan

iTrader: (9)

I centric rotors are good Also - I would reccomend OEM low dust pads (Sewell).

Exact is a good shop - I had my 60k service done there, and well as other services on other cars - Sandy and John are very nice people My moms BMW is there for repairs (... ) right now actually lol.