Rebuild kits?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: KY
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rebuild kits?
ok finally got the silver 02 started, and she is smoking like a freight train, I have water mixing with the oil.. So I want to save myself some trouble. and do a rebuild.. I have tried to do some google searches and don't come up with much as a master rebuild kit..
Can anyone point me to the right place?
Thanks
Can anyone point me to the right place?
Thanks
#2
Lead Lap
iTrader: (10)
The closest thing to that is a gasket kit from RockAuto.com
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...664&cc=1387111
You may need some specific gaskets from the dealer to fill in the gaps such as your piston rings, but that kit is a good start.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...664&cc=1387111
You may need some specific gaskets from the dealer to fill in the gaps such as your piston rings, but that kit is a good start.
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: KY
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well did a compression test and here is what I have found.. Facing the engine I numbered the cyclinders 1 through 6.
No 1. 1st pull 120, 2nd pull 120 3rd pull 105
No 2. 1st pull 145, 2nd pull 120 3rd pull 115
No 3, 1st pull 110, 2nd pull, 120 3rd pull 90
No 4. 1st pull 125, 2nd pull, 120, 3rd pull 110
No 5, 1st pull 130, 2nd pull 120, 3rd pull 120
No 6. 1st pull 60, 2nd pull, 80, 3rd pull 75
The test was on a cold engine NOT a warm engine either, I have not done a wet test to see if that help's but upon removing all the spark plug's they were soaked in oil. Sadly even with the back cylinder ( No 6. I call it ) with that low of a compression it still ran like a dream and had full power... Any idea's? before I go tearing down the motor any further.
No 1. 1st pull 120, 2nd pull 120 3rd pull 105
No 2. 1st pull 145, 2nd pull 120 3rd pull 115
No 3, 1st pull 110, 2nd pull, 120 3rd pull 90
No 4. 1st pull 125, 2nd pull, 120, 3rd pull 110
No 5, 1st pull 130, 2nd pull 120, 3rd pull 120
No 6. 1st pull 60, 2nd pull, 80, 3rd pull 75
The test was on a cold engine NOT a warm engine either, I have not done a wet test to see if that help's but upon removing all the spark plug's they were soaked in oil. Sadly even with the back cylinder ( No 6. I call it ) with that low of a compression it still ran like a dream and had full power... Any idea's? before I go tearing down the motor any further.
#6
Bro you are better off buying a engine. Labor and parts will end up costing u more in the long run. Engines only cost 600-700 hundred. I live in Fort Lauderdale florida and there's a guy out here that parts out nothing but is300 base and sports edition and gs300...
#7
I'll throw my $.02 in real quick and suggest that performing a leakdown will give you a better idea of what you are up against. You obviously have a loss in compression on cylinder six. Whether this is due to a failed piston ring or a blown head gasket is what you need to ask yourself.
If the leakdown comes back okay, you're dealing with a blown head gasket which is an easy weekend job on a 2JZ motor. Yes there are lots of brittle factory hoses that will probably break and gaskets that need to be replaced but as mentioned above, there are "top-end gasket kits" available for a 2JZ providing every hose and gasket needing to be replaced after pulling the head.
If the leakdown comes back with a considerable loss on cylinder 6, you're looking at a failed piston ring. In this case it'd probably be best to replace the whole motor as mentioned (unless of course you're handy with a wrench and want to tackle that yourself as well).
Got a couple questions actually...
You said you just got it running, what exactly was wrong in the first place?
Has the head ever been off the motor before?
-Follow up for last question... If the head has been off the block before, is it possible the head was slightly warped and needed to be decked? An uneven mating surface would also cause an early HG failure, but I'm not sure if it would only effect one cylinder like that...? Hmmm....
If the leakdown comes back okay, you're dealing with a blown head gasket which is an easy weekend job on a 2JZ motor. Yes there are lots of brittle factory hoses that will probably break and gaskets that need to be replaced but as mentioned above, there are "top-end gasket kits" available for a 2JZ providing every hose and gasket needing to be replaced after pulling the head.
If the leakdown comes back with a considerable loss on cylinder 6, you're looking at a failed piston ring. In this case it'd probably be best to replace the whole motor as mentioned (unless of course you're handy with a wrench and want to tackle that yourself as well).
Got a couple questions actually...
You said you just got it running, what exactly was wrong in the first place?
Has the head ever been off the motor before?
-Follow up for last question... If the head has been off the block before, is it possible the head was slightly warped and needed to be decked? An uneven mating surface would also cause an early HG failure, but I'm not sure if it would only effect one cylinder like that...? Hmmm....
Last edited by that2JZguy; 04-03-14 at 04:17 AM. Reason: Added some questions
Trending Topics
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: KY
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got a couple questions actually...
You said you just got it running, what exactly was wrong in the first place?
Has the head ever been off the motor before?
-Follow up for last question... If the head has been off the block before, is it possible the head was slightly warped and needed to be decked? An uneven mating surface would also cause an early HG failure, but I'm not sure if it would only effect one cylinder like that...? Hmmm....
but here goes, the 2002 I am working on is the nicer of the 2, body is straight motor fully intacted, guy i got it off of, said at one time it overheated, they took it to a mechanic and replaced the thermostat, and some sort of gasket, got it back and drove it and it started overheating again. they parked it, than wouldn't start. only thing i did was put anti-freeze in the radiator and she started like a charm, but white smoked like a freight train. I still took it for a small test drive, watched the temp, she stayed a little below dead center, for an hour and she ran like a dream, untill I parked it, than it started missing like a 10.5 earthquake..
Some things under the hood do appear to have been moved or taken apart at some time, I believe they may have replaced the headgasket before but I am unsure. Once the rain subsides, I will be finishing taking the head off, and guess do it the hard way
#9
Thanks for the additional information. Seems like there could be a possibiity that the head was warped the first time it overheated and like I mentioned, by replacing the head gasket between an uneven mating surface, the new gasket didn't take long to fail either. White smoke usually indicates you're burning antifreeze (bad head gasket) or your valve seals are bad. Either way you're gonna find out when you remove the head.
Once removed, take it to the machine shop and have it inspected and decked. They will tell you if you have a bad valve or if the seals need to be replaced. They will also let you know if they found any warpage and how much total was taken off the surface. If it's a considerable amount, a thinner head gasket might be needed if you want to retain stock compression but just wait for the results. Best of luck!
Once removed, take it to the machine shop and have it inspected and decked. They will tell you if you have a bad valve or if the seals need to be replaced. They will also let you know if they found any warpage and how much total was taken off the surface. If it's a considerable amount, a thinner head gasket might be needed if you want to retain stock compression but just wait for the results. Best of luck!
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: KY
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I was able to begin tear down yestarday, I got a few more things left before I can get the head off, but I removed the valve covers and can tell you its mixing anti freeze bad, both sides look like a chocolate shake has been poured in them...
Worse case scenario is I will swap out heads with the 01, it looks fine but will have it checked as well.
What is the max one of these heads can warp before it needs to be decked ?
Worse case scenario is I will swap out heads with the 01, it looks fine but will have it checked as well.
What is the max one of these heads can warp before it needs to be decked ?
Last edited by Exia; 04-07-14 at 08:59 AM.
#11
You're definitely gonna want to have the head on the '01 checked before swapping it into the '02. It'd suck to go through all that work only to end up dealing with the same situation.
TSRM specifies max warpage of .0039" (0.1mm) across any of the nine measurement points.
TSRM specifies max warpage of .0039" (0.1mm) across any of the nine measurement points.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post