Driveshaftshop Carbon driveshaft
#1
Driveshaftshop Carbon driveshaft
It's offically here! So to start things off:
There is a issue with the shifter linkage arm/pin when in drive, I'm waiting to hear back about what they will do to resolve the issue, I don't want to resort to bending the linkage arm/pin to make it work but I would if I did do so.
The only thing making weight difference is all the oem bolts, they are not reused with the dss shaft. It weighs in exactly the same as the oem with the guib os. The guibos are replaced with billet aluminum spacers, it utilizes a hefty u-joint at the rear and a Porsche style cv joint at the front.
My car has a pts/joez exhaust To install you will need to remove the mid pipe and x pipe to remove the driveshaft heat shielding. Once the old driveshaft is off then bolt on the adapters then put the new shaft in and torque to the labeling on the shaft, it is imperative to reinstall the heat shield that separates the driveshaft from the exhaust to gaurd it from heat and debris that will shatter the delicate cfrp. Luckily our cars come with a shielding from the factory, my mk3 supra does not have anything and before I get my car back on the road Ill be fabbing something to prevent damage.
So for now I have nothing else to report on due to the linkage arm/pin, also I will not have access to a track for a accurate 1/4 mile run (I live in wa state and its freezing temps currently).
Driveshaftshop shaft
There is a issue with the shifter linkage arm/pin when in drive, I'm waiting to hear back about what they will do to resolve the issue, I don't want to resort to bending the linkage arm/pin to make it work but I would if I did do so.
The only thing making weight difference is all the oem bolts, they are not reused with the dss shaft. It weighs in exactly the same as the oem with the guib os. The guibos are replaced with billet aluminum spacers, it utilizes a hefty u-joint at the rear and a Porsche style cv joint at the front.
My car has a pts/joez exhaust To install you will need to remove the mid pipe and x pipe to remove the driveshaft heat shielding. Once the old driveshaft is off then bolt on the adapters then put the new shaft in and torque to the labeling on the shaft, it is imperative to reinstall the heat shield that separates the driveshaft from the exhaust to gaurd it from heat and debris that will shatter the delicate cfrp. Luckily our cars come with a shielding from the factory, my mk3 supra does not have anything and before I get my car back on the road Ill be fabbing something to prevent damage.
So for now I have nothing else to report on due to the linkage arm/pin, also I will not have access to a track for a accurate 1/4 mile run (I live in wa state and its freezing temps currently).
Driveshaftshop shaft
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Carbon
The weight is not the real advantage that Carbon can or will give, in fact any vehicle will see quite a difference when launching.This is some info we we share on this subject (not trying to sell just letting you know the weight thing is not its real value) what most don't know is the Carbon end is allot heavier due to the bond area and what you save in the tube sometimes can be given back in the ends.
Picture (3) 36" long pieces of tube in front of you, one steel on aluminum and one carbon. You pick up the steel tube with your index finger and thumb and strike it with a screwdriver, this will ring like a bell and resonate for some time. Pick up the Aluminum tube and you will get about the same, but it will not ring as long or as much. Then pick up the Carbon and it will just make a Click sound when its struck, you see the material is much better at "NOT" transferring noise/Harmonics from the drive train to the cabin, This may be an issue if you have a bad Diff or solid or poly mounts in the Vehicle.
The real advantage of the Carbon comes from its Torsional property's, When launching a vehicle either on the street or on the track something happens that most are not aware of, all Drive shafts will torsionally twist. A steel shaft will twist from 5-7 degrees an Aluminum about 20 degrees and then you have the Carbon at an amazing 30 degrees. This may not seem all that amazing but what happens next is, when the steel shaft releases its like a spring unwinding it will come back at the same force and will not only help to break the tires loose it can also send a harmful shock in to the drive train from this forward to reverse shock. Then we have the Aluminum, it will twist up the 20 degrees and also releases like a spring but not as harsh or as fast (best bang for the buck as long as the tube will handle the HP). Aluminum does not transfer as much NHV as steel and its light.
Then we move to the Carbon it will wrap up 30 degrees but its ability after this is what makes it work so well, it will release the energy over time as it un-winds and will not give the reverse shock of the other materials, in testing what we have found (this has been proven over and over) is the shaft will slow down the harmful shock that will damage the drive train AND will also help the 60ft times by not reverse shocking everything its attached to. in private testing we have seen from .1 to .3 gain on 60ft times depending on the shaft coming off of the vehicle, this will also relate to a smoother drive train, much less harmonic transfer and be easier on any and all other parts that may not be up to par (weak diff/trans ect) I just wanted to let you know that weight is not the real advantage here, when comparing shafts take all of this into consideration for a better build.
Guibo/hanger issue with stock shaft
The stock shaft will have to start by putting the torque into the front Guibo and it gives, then it moves down to the hanger that is very soft and will move up about .750" then back to the rear guibo and compress that one, so by the time the torque goes thru the shaft its dampened allot to the point of feeling soft or disconnected, by putting the single shaft in the car will be allot more responsive to pedal/torque input. It will have a more athletic feel and be quicker due to the lack of the soft parts being removed.
The weight is not the real advantage that Carbon can or will give, in fact any vehicle will see quite a difference when launching.This is some info we we share on this subject (not trying to sell just letting you know the weight thing is not its real value) what most don't know is the Carbon end is allot heavier due to the bond area and what you save in the tube sometimes can be given back in the ends.
Picture (3) 36" long pieces of tube in front of you, one steel on aluminum and one carbon. You pick up the steel tube with your index finger and thumb and strike it with a screwdriver, this will ring like a bell and resonate for some time. Pick up the Aluminum tube and you will get about the same, but it will not ring as long or as much. Then pick up the Carbon and it will just make a Click sound when its struck, you see the material is much better at "NOT" transferring noise/Harmonics from the drive train to the cabin, This may be an issue if you have a bad Diff or solid or poly mounts in the Vehicle.
The real advantage of the Carbon comes from its Torsional property's, When launching a vehicle either on the street or on the track something happens that most are not aware of, all Drive shafts will torsionally twist. A steel shaft will twist from 5-7 degrees an Aluminum about 20 degrees and then you have the Carbon at an amazing 30 degrees. This may not seem all that amazing but what happens next is, when the steel shaft releases its like a spring unwinding it will come back at the same force and will not only help to break the tires loose it can also send a harmful shock in to the drive train from this forward to reverse shock. Then we have the Aluminum, it will twist up the 20 degrees and also releases like a spring but not as harsh or as fast (best bang for the buck as long as the tube will handle the HP). Aluminum does not transfer as much NHV as steel and its light.
Then we move to the Carbon it will wrap up 30 degrees but its ability after this is what makes it work so well, it will release the energy over time as it un-winds and will not give the reverse shock of the other materials, in testing what we have found (this has been proven over and over) is the shaft will slow down the harmful shock that will damage the drive train AND will also help the 60ft times by not reverse shocking everything its attached to. in private testing we have seen from .1 to .3 gain on 60ft times depending on the shaft coming off of the vehicle, this will also relate to a smoother drive train, much less harmonic transfer and be easier on any and all other parts that may not be up to par (weak diff/trans ect) I just wanted to let you know that weight is not the real advantage here, when comparing shafts take all of this into consideration for a better build.
Guibo/hanger issue with stock shaft
The stock shaft will have to start by putting the torque into the front Guibo and it gives, then it moves down to the hanger that is very soft and will move up about .750" then back to the rear guibo and compress that one, so by the time the torque goes thru the shaft its dampened allot to the point of feeling soft or disconnected, by putting the single shaft in the car will be allot more responsive to pedal/torque input. It will have a more athletic feel and be quicker due to the lack of the soft parts being removed.
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Belshe1993 (02-14-21)
#13
So I was able to tweak the shifter link arm just enough to clear the mounting bolts, I drove the car down to Seattle today and I had zero issues with the driveshaft. The acceleration seems a lot crisper, more instant movement which I what I expected. I usually don't speed a whole lot but during the home stretch of my trip I went from 60-130 (the 2nd time I've done this) and it seemed to get there a little quicker. I'm still searching around for a time and place to do a 1/4 mile run to get hard data on any gains from it.
#14
Pole Position
iTrader: (3)
I don't think this will benefit on our cars as we can't launch our cars at high rpms since we don't have any type of launch control . Your 60ft times will most likely be the same especially that there is no weight savings and we don't put enough force on the stock drive shaft since you can't launch the car higher then 2000rpm. Best of luck in for seeing the results.
#15
Driver School Candidate
I don't think this will benefit on our cars as we can't launch our cars at high rpms since we don't have any type of launch control . Your 60ft times will most likely be the same especially that there is no weight savings and we don't put enough force on the stock drive shaft since you can't launch the car higher then 2000rpm. Best of luck in for seeing the results.