anxiouz

iTrader: (9)

I sometimes get a random clunk when downshifting but it's maybe like once every 2 weeks and it seems more like I just caught the car off-guard or something.

The only other clumsiness I have is slowing down in Sport mode when the car downshifts from 2 to 1 when coming to a stop. It's not that smooth but there's no clunk.

lukeisf

At the time I only had exhaust and they warrantied with out a problem

avgj0F

iTrader: (2)

Clunking sound when shift from P to D? Try the following steps before putting gear in P:

Right foot on brake, D to N, press emergency foot brake as far as possible, slowly let go right brake, shift to P only if the car is completely stand still.

Before drive off, right brake, put gear in D and release the emergency brake.

This is the best practice to save the trany for car owner who parks on the hills.

StealthFF

Hmm.. wow pretty interesting failures and finds. I have experianced such clunky on personal vehicles when: not warmed-up enough usually as in any situation lockup rate a bit higher due to thicker viscosity and other components not up to temp, and other oddities induced bc of ideal functions rates being out of line so to speak, and just plain component failures as you all have explained or experianced, and other warm up protocols determined by their programming and design to allow longevity for certain parts.
I know when setting up logic for PLCs I integrate for certain oilfeild equipment as n2 converters, fracs, etc, we implement warm-up intervals which force user lock out insuring proper warm up..which yes I understand not ideal for consuer needs, safety, or function. But its always best to allow oil temps to reach proper temp and compnents to get past a desired heat cycle due to the parameters these componenets function ideally in and the fluids to properly flow and function at their designed temperatures. Thus, saying this I allow my F to atleast reach two bars on oil temp to insure my trans is warm as well as block ofcoarse which GREATLY has reduced any "clunking", hard shifting, and or any weird behaviors exhibited that operating temp would cause...but also remember you can just throw it in gear and go to town bc your diff is self ventalated and needs to be "warm-up" as well as concidering every other componenet on the vehicle that needs and inital so to speak run time to function properly..On another note in BMW and my fathers MINI cooperS they state NOT to warm up and go to drive once started, and he has lost a tubo, transmission, and other componentes before 50k , and he doesnt drive hard...I wonder how much of this failure was induced to warm up hmm...but just a thought and perspective to throw out there..