MicaISF

after i jump started my F today, the check VSC and engine indicators came on. the car otherwise drives fine. the VSC botton won't work though, pressing the botton neither turn if off nor on.

i had the car jump started by another car, the connections were as decribed in the lexus manual. i also checked fuses and did not fine any problems.

any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

MicaISF

i found a solution to clear it.
press the VSC botton and turn on the car, but not starting the engine( press start twice without pressing brake pedal). this manuver cleared the warning lights. car is back to normal again.

ISFer

iTrader: (2)

Strange one indeed. Might have been because the batt went dead more than the jump start.
Glad to hear that you found a solution.
C.

ilocke

iTrader: (11)

Hi guys,

I just wanted to bump this thread as I just experienced this issue last night and my search of "Check VSC" led me to this thread with the solution in post #2.

My problem had something to do with my Blitz Throttle Controller I believe, because as soon as I turned it on and put it in SP3, the CEL came on and the HUD read "Check VSC". No amount of restarting the car or pressing the TRAC/VSC button would resolve it.

I tried the suggestion in post #2 above and it didn't fix the issue. Then, I turned on and off my Throttle Controller, then did the solution in post #2 and that resolved the issue. The Throttle Controller still works, so I'm not sure what the issue was, but if the light comes back, I'll post up again.

mugenh22a4

iTrader: (9)

subscribed for next time I need a jump start

ISFer

iTrader: (2)

Also ran.....
C.

BigMikeISF

Very interesting to hear that the throttle controller might have caused a CEL or VSC light, first time I've heard of any problems with the Blitz or Toms. How long have you had it? Do you use it all the time?

Definitely subscribed for next time as well

ilocke

iTrader: (11)

Hmm, after some more reading (instruction manual), I have a few more things to add. The manual says:

"Do not operate this product while driving. It would cause an accident."

It would? It didn't! I am pretty sure I turned it on while driving. Not sure if the interpretation of the instruction is that it would throw a CEL, or if the immediately increase in throttle/gas pedal manipulation might cause me to lunge into another car. It says turning the product off while driving is fine, though, so I dunno.

Anyway, I've had it for maybe a month or so and have only used it a few times - maybe 3-4 times.

avgj0F

iTrader: (2)

Did you find out why the battery went dead? I only ask because mine had to jump start once for no apparent reason.

hellofello

iTrader: (1)

I've seen the same problem but I'm running on a 3GS. Every time I go from the ECO mode up to any of the SP1 or higher modes on the Blitz controller, the car would throw a CEL light and CHECK VSC light, and the car would go into limp mode. The only way to clear it, would be to restart the car back up a few times.

jleonard71

This happened to me when my battery crapped out on me a few weeks ago. When I would jump the car the CEL light would come on with a "Check VSC" message and it would completely lock me out of 1st gear from a standstill. I could downshift into 1st gear while driving, but it would not let me start in 1st gear from stop. I called the dealer and they said that is completely normal, it's a "limp" mode that the car goes into whenever it senses low voltage. They told me I should bring it in to get it looked at and to a new battery since it was only a little over 2 years old and it apparently had an 8 year warranty on it. As soon as I put in a new battery it went away right away.

On a side note, just FYI regarding the Lexus batteries - the 8 year warranty is NOT a full replacement warranty if you're past the original 50K mile vehicle warranty (which mine is); it's pro-rated after 24 months and the terms suck. During the first 24 months you get a 100% free replacement, but you still need to sign off on 0.5 hours of labor to test it and if it's deemed bad they will replace it for free but if not then you out $65 in labor for the testing. And then after 24 months the warranty drops immediately to 50% replacement (and goes down from there), and you also need to pay 0.5 hours labor to get it tested for replacement and THEN they want 0.5 hours to install it = $130 in total labor! So since my battery was 30 months old, they wanted $65 for the test + 50% of the full retail battery price ($95) + $65 install = $225! Are you fuggin kidding me!?!? I asked if I could just get the battery for the $95 without paying for the test and then just install it for myself, since I could easily prove it's dead - just try to start it after I turn it off for more than a few minutes!! He said no they can't do that, because they need to do some tests and make sure it's not the alternator or some other electrical problem (which I knew it wasn't since the car ran fine one you jumped it). He said the very least he could do was $65 for the test + $95 for the battery and then let me install it myself, so it would still come out to $160.

So instead I went to Costco and picked one up for $89 which gives me a 100% free replacement within 30 months with no questions asked and no hassle. And here in AZ the most you can expect to get out of a battery on a daily driver is 3 years tops, so whenever I get a battery from Costco I make it a point to return and swap it out after 24-30 months even if it isn't bad.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

That's a pretty sad story. For what Lexus charges to honor a warranty, you could buy a premium battery. I didn't know they have an 8 year warranty though. Pretty unusual. I figured 5 years in Atlanta would be near the limit and last winter there were a few times the car started pretty slowly, or at least slower than I expected.

I've also seen some weird stuff with Toyotas and flakey/old/tired batteries. They're not very tolerant of low cranking voltage at all.