NYC ES3

iTrader: (7)

So added a sub to system...read multiple threads and have experience doing systems (not an expert but not a novice)

Simple enough...did basically what everyone who added a sub did
Tap off the two front woofers, and stock sub from ML amp plugged into LOC used RCA Y to get both L+R woofers to left side of amp and then Sub out to right side of amp...
Ran amp out pur bridged mono...
Set Lo pass to 100Hz and boosted amp output to 10" sub box

Results: with DSP off, improved bass, improved lows all around but once system is turned up beyond 50 in volume the ML starts to fool around with the low end frequency volume at higher volumes so bass tops out ...no where near as much thump as at lower volumes.

I pray for someone to find the pre outs from the head unit (radio) to the ML amp...to get rid of all that BS processing

$64K car...okey doke system! shameful

anxiouz

iTrader: (9)

I haven't read up much on this but when you say volume past "50" do you mean the stock headunit volume reads past 50?!

This sounds retarded to ask but the highest I've gone is around 30 when using my Zune via AUX and I thought that was crazy loud. Turning up the Zune volume I'm usually sitting around 15-20 on the stock HU.

Just wanted to be clear. I might consider some additional bass...was just wondering if you're cranking past 50 on the stock setup + extras. I can't imagine anything stock sounding remotely good at that level.

robertrios

iTrader: (11)

Is your adaptive sound or whatever thats called off too? What seat is your equalization set to? I have all off and sound set to whole car, in surround mode. Only tapped to rear sub and my audio is set to: Highs: all the way up, Mids: flat, Bass + 2. My gain on my 1000 watt rms @ 1ohm amp is set to about 25% and im using 2 12" W6 subs. The bass for me is plenty loud...sometimes too loud so I have a bass **** up front so I can turn it down as needed.

If you want a cleaner signal you really need a multi input summing device like the JL clean sweep. With that you put all the channels together and send a clean sumed signal to your aftermaket amps. This of course takes alot more effort and in turn is alot more expensive.

What are your audio specs? your running 1 10", with what Amp? Where is the gain set? is the box ported or sealed? Phase? Which way is it pointing in the cabin. Another thing that helps is opening up the ski hole to let more air into the cabin. HELPS ALOT! I removed the plastic door all together.

lexsane

yeah the ml in the F is lame. my added sub is set up similarly and I have the same problem. I hope the next generation F gets a better system

robertrios

iTrader: (11)

the systems are going to get more complicated not simpler and easier to tap for aftermarket systems. To get decent bass your going to need to add alot of weight to the car from sound dampening, amps, better battery, wiring, and the sub itself/enclosure. I think that when Toyota is building a sports car this is one of the last things it wants to add weight for. Each one of my subs weighs around 20lbs so roughly for all the additions needed for the bass that people are wanting your talking close to 150lbs on the low end.

lexsane

I agree..i was looking into light weight subs but they don't hit hard. maybe Markie levinson will come up with a solution. but still overall happy with the bass from my added sub.

NYC ES3

iTrader: (7)

I have the custom ISx50 subbox that fits flush with the left side of the trunk, 10" alpine sub powered by 400W Alpine amp.
listening to the system it seems as what its doing is once it gets past a certain volume( 50 or so) it no longer increases the volume of the lower frequencies past that point only turns up the mid and high. So maybe that bass **** set up is what I am missing....
oh btw - yes all the adaptive volume control is off, etc, etc
HIGH, MID, BASS settings are all relative to what kind of music someone is listening to also

If you are a rock music per fan per say your bass needs are minimal (hence some people think the ML is a good system)
but if you listen to reggae or hip hop yes deep louder bass is a great need.

Can you maybe share with me how your system is wired and the components you used to integrate the bass **** control.
I am not going the clean sweep route yet or system redo ...yet
but would be nice to control the bass....I have to give it too much so I can regulate with that ****.
May have to kick up some watts in the amp and i got no issue spending on that if necessary.

can u hit me on a PM

thanks all

hahahaf

iTrader: (2)

it only needs help if you want to mud other frequencies
I love to hear the subtle nuances int he mid to high range
this is the first car ive had that has the ability to give m clear highs
lows are fine unless you want to get silly

NYC ES3

iTrader: (7)

yeah ok

anyways

MjThind

Yes! Are you going to upgrade anything else? Tweeters, Mids ,Highs, etc. to compliment the sub, because I've been thinking about changing the whole system but keeping the the head unit...

robertrios

iTrader: (11)

The bass **** connects to the amp itself, look up your model. Also there is a generic one that is connected to the RCAs made my PAC. 400 watts? RMS or peak to peak? Which Alipine Amp? Wired at what Ohm? The seats of the ISF are thick in the rear 400 watts wouldnt sound as loud in our car as it would in a civic hatch back per say. Def open up your ski hole that helps.

The amp is reducing bass to act efficiently and to become louder without blowing out your speakers. Mid bass and stock subs were not intended to shake the car next to you however since the car has warranty they are intended to last. I think all you really need is better equipment and/or a bass **** and some system tuning.

vbb

iTrader: (3)

Heh, I keep the volume between 30-32 normally and the bass on +2. If I really want to crank it, I'll turn it up to 40-42. I listen to a fair amount of rap and hip hop too, and think that the ML system sounds fine. It can't reproduce the lowest lows, or give you that bass you feel in your chest, but it sounds good to me. And 15-16 years ago I used to build crazy audio systems for my cars with 1000W amps and the like. I guess I'm just old now, lol.

Just F Me

I have an Alpine MRP-M500 D-Class amp. I disconnected the ML sub, and ran two wires from there straight into the amp as the amp has built in speaker level inputs....my problem is i have to tweek with the EQ that's on the amp to find the happy spot because there's SO MUCH BASS and my GAIN is set to 0, but i have to fiddle around with the Crossover Freq...I'm happy with my setup...$250 bucks and massive amounts more bass. Good thing I didn't go with the Alpine 12" Type R sub and PDX 600

robertrios

iTrader: (11)

^ I have that amp in the SC430 hooked up to one J 10w3 and its plenty loud

NYC ES3

iTrader: (7)

hmm thanks guys ...I will check out both bass **** amp and also Alpine amp upgrade

issue is not continuous lack of bass it about a variance in bass volume
The ML stops increasing the low end volume after a certain point no matter if u turn up the volume (as you said maybe preventing stock sub from blowing)

Thats why i think bass **** will do well.
so I can manually adjust the volume when ML decides "thats enough"

good insight...will go back and try a few things.

And YES dude ---ur getting old - system on 30---WTF??!?! lol


BUT - has anyone at all ever found the feed from the HU to the ML?? just curious