DIY IS-F Spark plug change
#32
Lexus Champion
#33
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
I've only had the car for 60K so I'm right on time!.
...I don't know the full previous service history and doubt a dealer would have serviced them when they flipped the car to me.
Its listed in the normal service table as as 72 months or 60 K miles/ 96 km's which ever occurs first.
Digger08
...I don't know the full previous service history and doubt a dealer would have serviced them when they flipped the car to me.
Its listed in the normal service table as as 72 months or 60 K miles/ 96 km's which ever occurs first.
Digger08
#36
Pole Position
I have 116,126 miles on my 2008 ISF. Routine service only. Oil changes every 15,000 miles (10 quarts of oil is a lot to get dirty). On 3rd set of front rotors and 4th set of pads. Track it about 3 times a year.
It has never been in the service bay for any reason. Still runs great. Love the car.
Pat
It has never been in the service bay for any reason. Still runs great. Love the car.
Pat
#37
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Under an IS F since 2008
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Just wanted to say thank you for this useful & needed DIY thread...
Finally got to my plugs after 80k miles... Bought them 20k miles ago.. LoL
Also, Lobux's thread was very helpful as well.
Done the 60k mile Valve Clearance Inspection yet?
Definitely recommend to change them at 60k miles.. (per owners manual)
This allows the motor to keep running fresh and allows you to monitor other potential issues like oil leaks or valve cover gasket issues.
Basically, things that can develop over time..
I took a bunch of pics, but will just add one of all 8 plugs I pulled out for now.
Thanks
Joe Z
Finally got to my plugs after 80k miles... Bought them 20k miles ago.. LoL
Also, Lobux's thread was very helpful as well.
Done the 60k mile Valve Clearance Inspection yet?
Definitely recommend to change them at 60k miles.. (per owners manual)
This allows the motor to keep running fresh and allows you to monitor other potential issues like oil leaks or valve cover gasket issues.
Basically, things that can develop over time..
I took a bunch of pics, but will just add one of all 8 plugs I pulled out for now.
Thanks
Joe Z
Last edited by Joe Z; 10-06-13 at 02:56 PM.
#38
Advanced
iTrader: (3)
Apologies to revive this thread from the dead...
I have changed out the spark plugs on an 08 ISF a few years ago, and just now, on a 2011 ISF.
The pictures are EXACTLY as shown here, with the rear 2 spark plugs with oil on the threads.
The rear 2 plugs meaning 1 from the passenger side, 1 from the drivers side, closest to the firewall. There was no oil on the electrodes themselves and do not seem fouled up from oil being in the cylinder, so it is just oil on the threads only.
Is this a cause for concern? 3 ISFs including JoeZ's pictures seem like this is normal and not a head gasket leak?
I have changed out the spark plugs on an 08 ISF a few years ago, and just now, on a 2011 ISF.
The pictures are EXACTLY as shown here, with the rear 2 spark plugs with oil on the threads.
The rear 2 plugs meaning 1 from the passenger side, 1 from the drivers side, closest to the firewall. There was no oil on the electrodes themselves and do not seem fouled up from oil being in the cylinder, so it is just oil on the threads only.
Is this a cause for concern? 3 ISFs including JoeZ's pictures seem like this is normal and not a head gasket leak?
Just wanted to say thank you for this useful & needed DIY thread...
Finally got to my plugs after 80k miles... Bought them 20k miles ago.. LoL
Also, Lobux's thread was very helpful as well.
Done the 60k mile Valve Clearance Inspection yet?
Definitely recommend to change them at 60k miles.. (per owners manual)
This allows the motor to keep running fresh and allows you to monitor other potential issues like oil leaks or valve cover gasket issues.
Basically, things that can develop over time..
I took a bunch of pics, but will just add one of all 8 plugs I pulled out for now.
Thanks
Joe Z
Finally got to my plugs after 80k miles... Bought them 20k miles ago.. LoL
Also, Lobux's thread was very helpful as well.
Done the 60k mile Valve Clearance Inspection yet?
Definitely recommend to change them at 60k miles.. (per owners manual)
This allows the motor to keep running fresh and allows you to monitor other potential issues like oil leaks or valve cover gasket issues.
Basically, things that can develop over time..
I took a bunch of pics, but will just add one of all 8 plugs I pulled out for now.
Thanks
Joe Z
#39
Lead Lap
Excuse me as I forgot the exact term, I believe "PLUG SEALS or GASKETS", but anywho my plugs had oil on them and heard that the oil can cause failure of the spark plug. Anyway, I was told by technician that the plug seal on the head gasket needed to be replaced to stop such a problem. I waited unitl 100K approx. and I thought it was bs , but my car is easily 15% more responsive. So much more responsive on throttle that I feel my car was actually "bogging" and hesitating to accelerate at times and I though was just a fcator of gear selection and or heat during summer in TX. I mean I can grab a higher gear and on throttle through that gear is so much better. DEFINITE must every 60K.
Any experiance regarding plug seals anyone fill in. A friend also that has been a service manager at sewell as I showed him plug diagnosed problem before I could even say the words,a nd says its common for many vehicles..
Any experiance regarding plug seals anyone fill in. A friend also that has been a service manager at sewell as I showed him plug diagnosed problem before I could even say the words,a nd says its common for many vehicles..
#40
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
There is no plug seal on the head gasket. There are plug tube seals on the valve covers. Their failure is not common. I did not have any of this when I checked my valves and changed my plugs.
Replacing those seals is a considerable PITA. If you choose to do this, you would be wise to measure the valve clearance as you'll have to remove the valve covers to replace the seals.
Replacing those seals is a considerable PITA. If you choose to do this, you would be wise to measure the valve clearance as you'll have to remove the valve covers to replace the seals.
#41
Lead Lap
There is no plug seal on the head gasket. There are plug tube seals on the valve covers. Their failure is not common. I did not have any of this when I checked my valves and changed my plugs.
Replacing those seals is a considerable PITA. If you choose to do this, you would be wise to measure the valve clearance as you'll have to remove the valve covers to replace the seals.
Replacing those seals is a considerable PITA. If you choose to do this, you would be wise to measure the valve clearance as you'll have to remove the valve covers to replace the seals.
#42
Pole Position
Just thought I would share the results of changing my spark plugs today as I'm about to hit 160,000km's/ 100,000 miles
Not sure what this means but all 8 of them look like this, my mechanic told me this is a good sign as it means they are all igniting properly. I had no other obvious signs of carbon, oil, cracked ceramics....etc
I replaced them with Denso OEM FK20HBR11's that I picked up from Sewell during a black Friday sale.
No noticeable differences in driving, just piece of mind
Digger08
Not sure what this means but all 8 of them look like this, my mechanic told me this is a good sign as it means they are all igniting properly. I had no other obvious signs of carbon, oil, cracked ceramics....etc
I replaced them with Denso OEM FK20HBR11's that I picked up from Sewell during a black Friday sale.
No noticeable differences in driving, just piece of mind
Digger08
I'm coming up on 60k here shortly and am doing some research on the plug change.
#43
If you choose to, I would use it sparingly. I had a spark plug back out years ago (yes, I torqued it to spec) that I believe was due to overuse of anti-seize.
#44
Pole Position
^^^^^^
Wow, crazy that it backed out on you, but the reasoning behind it sounds plausible. So use anti-seize but just a little bit then. I wonder if they use anti-seize from the factory?
Wow, crazy that it backed out on you, but the reasoning behind it sounds plausible. So use anti-seize but just a little bit then. I wonder if they use anti-seize from the factory?
#45
I doubt OEMs use anti-seize on most bolts. I haven't met a bolt exposed to heat or the elements for a period of time that didn't have corroded threads - I recently took the exhaust off my previous vehicle and while bolt heads and visible threads were corroded, threads in contact with the nut were not because I used anti-seize when I installed the exhaust 3 years ago.