IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

DIY IS-F Spark plug change

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Old 03-15-13, 10:44 AM
  #31  
iH8RICERZ
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I'm at 90,8xx miles right now...at the rate I've been driving, I'll hit 100k miles by the end of summer.... catching up to you guys! lol
Old 03-15-13, 10:46 AM
  #32  
Just F Me
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Originally Posted by iH8RICERZ
I'm at 90,8xx miles right now...at the rate I've been driving, I'll hit 100k miles by the end of summer.... catching up to you guys! lol
GO GO GO! I should be at 100,000 miles by the end of the month since next week I'll be out of town.
Old 03-15-13, 10:48 AM
  #33  
digger08
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I've only had the car for 60K so I'm right on time!.


...I don't know the full previous service history and doubt a dealer would have serviced them when they flipped the car to me.

Its listed in the normal service table as as 72 months or 60 K miles/ 96 km's which ever occurs first.


Digger08
Old 03-15-13, 04:04 PM
  #34  
Gearbangin
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What should this cost at a dealer?
Old 03-15-13, 04:13 PM
  #35  
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I was quoted $550 for spark plugs replacement at a local Lexus dealer in Southern CA.

It's not a difficult job and straightforward on what needs to be moved out of the way to access the plugs. Just need the right tools.

Call around, prices will vary.


Originally Posted by Gearbangin
What should this cost at a dealer?
Old 03-16-13, 09:14 AM
  #36  
FPR1939
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I have 116,126 miles on my 2008 ISF. Routine service only. Oil changes every 15,000 miles (10 quarts of oil is a lot to get dirty). On 3rd set of front rotors and 4th set of pads. Track it about 3 times a year.

It has never been in the service bay for any reason. Still runs great. Love the car.

Pat
Old 10-06-13, 02:51 PM
  #37  
Joe Z
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Just wanted to say thank you for this useful & needed DIY thread...

Finally got to my plugs after 80k miles... Bought them 20k miles ago.. LoL

Also, Lobux's thread was very helpful as well.
Done the 60k mile Valve Clearance Inspection yet?

Definitely recommend to change them at 60k miles.. (per owners manual)
This allows the motor to keep running fresh and allows you to monitor other potential issues like oil leaks or valve cover gasket issues.
Basically, things that can develop over time..

I took a bunch of pics, but will just add one of all 8 plugs I pulled out for now.

Thanks
Joe Z
Attached Thumbnails DIY IS-F Spark plug change-image.jpg  

Last edited by Joe Z; 10-06-13 at 02:56 PM.
Old 01-12-15, 09:41 PM
  #38  
itsmike177
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Apologies to revive this thread from the dead...

I have changed out the spark plugs on an 08 ISF a few years ago, and just now, on a 2011 ISF.

The pictures are EXACTLY as shown here, with the rear 2 spark plugs with oil on the threads.
The rear 2 plugs meaning 1 from the passenger side, 1 from the drivers side, closest to the firewall. There was no oil on the electrodes themselves and do not seem fouled up from oil being in the cylinder, so it is just oil on the threads only.

Is this a cause for concern? 3 ISFs including JoeZ's pictures seem like this is normal and not a head gasket leak?


Originally Posted by Joe Z
Just wanted to say thank you for this useful & needed DIY thread...

Finally got to my plugs after 80k miles... Bought them 20k miles ago.. LoL

Also, Lobux's thread was very helpful as well.
Done the 60k mile Valve Clearance Inspection yet?

Definitely recommend to change them at 60k miles.. (per owners manual)
This allows the motor to keep running fresh and allows you to monitor other potential issues like oil leaks or valve cover gasket issues.
Basically, things that can develop over time..

I took a bunch of pics, but will just add one of all 8 plugs I pulled out for now.

Thanks
Joe Z
Old 01-13-15, 08:24 AM
  #39  
StealthFF
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Excuse me as I forgot the exact term, I believe "PLUG SEALS or GASKETS", but anywho my plugs had oil on them and heard that the oil can cause failure of the spark plug. Anyway, I was told by technician that the plug seal on the head gasket needed to be replaced to stop such a problem. I waited unitl 100K approx. and I thought it was bs , but my car is easily 15% more responsive. So much more responsive on throttle that I feel my car was actually "bogging" and hesitating to accelerate at times and I though was just a fcator of gear selection and or heat during summer in TX. I mean I can grab a higher gear and on throttle through that gear is so much better. DEFINITE must every 60K.

Any experiance regarding plug seals anyone fill in. A friend also that has been a service manager at sewell as I showed him plug diagnosed problem before I could even say the words,a nd says its common for many vehicles..
Old 01-13-15, 05:45 PM
  #40  
lobuxracer
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There is no plug seal on the head gasket. There are plug tube seals on the valve covers. Their failure is not common. I did not have any of this when I checked my valves and changed my plugs.

Replacing those seals is a considerable PITA. If you choose to do this, you would be wise to measure the valve clearance as you'll have to remove the valve covers to replace the seals.
Old 01-14-15, 04:55 AM
  #41  
StealthFF
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
There is no plug seal on the head gasket. There are plug tube seals on the valve covers. Their failure is not common. I did not have any of this when I checked my valves and changed my plugs.

Replacing those seals is a considerable PITA. If you choose to do this, you would be wise to measure the valve clearance as you'll have to remove the valve covers to replace the seals.
Correct I meant valve cover not head gasket. Yea that what they said, that apparently it was "common" a verbal reference from technicians that have done the ls460 and isf spark plugs? TSB? lol warranty
Old 07-20-15, 11:51 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by digger08
Just thought I would share the results of changing my spark plugs today as I'm about to hit 160,000km's/ 100,000 miles

Not sure what this means but all 8 of them look like this, my mechanic told me this is a good sign as it means they are all igniting properly. I had no other obvious signs of carbon, oil, cracked ceramics....etc

I replaced them with Denso OEM FK20HBR11's that I picked up from Sewell during a black Friday sale.





No noticeable differences in driving, just piece of mind


Digger08
Just curious if anybody else has changed their plugs and they looked like this?? Is this a normal look? Granted these were after 100K miles also.

Originally Posted by ISFPOWER
damn that looks kind of bad. at least you changed it. changed mine and they looked new.
Originally Posted by digger08
....and some anti-seize compound on the threads....to make the next removal easier.

Digger08
I've heard both camps on putting anti-seize on plugs before installation, what is the consensus on anti-seize grease put on before installation, yes or no??

I'm coming up on 60k here shortly and am doing some research on the plug change.
Old 07-21-15, 08:27 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by MileHIFcar
I've heard both camps on putting anti-seize on plugs before installation, what is the consensus on anti-seize grease put on before installation, yes or no??

I'm coming up on 60k here shortly and am doing some research on the plug change.
If you choose to, I would use it sparingly. I had a spark plug back out years ago (yes, I torqued it to spec) that I believe was due to overuse of anti-seize.
Old 07-21-15, 08:37 AM
  #44  
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^^^^^^

Wow, crazy that it backed out on you, but the reasoning behind it sounds plausible. So use anti-seize but just a little bit then. I wonder if they use anti-seize from the factory?
Old 07-21-15, 09:41 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by MileHIFcar
^^^^^^

Wow, crazy that it backed out on you, but the reasoning behind it sounds plausible. So use anti-seize but just a little bit then. I wonder if they use anti-seize from the factory?
Indeed, I thought a spun a rod bearing or something, but it turned out to be a backed out plug. I do blame myself, I used WAY too much anti-seize.

I doubt OEMs use anti-seize on most bolts. I haven't met a bolt exposed to heat or the elements for a period of time that didn't have corroded threads - I recently took the exhaust off my previous vehicle and while bolt heads and visible threads were corroded, threads in contact with the nut were not because I used anti-seize when I installed the exhaust 3 years ago.


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