Oil Change - 2009 IS 250 AWD
01-19-10, 05:41 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: wv
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oil Change - 2009 IS 250 AWD
This is long but effective. It was written for the RX but essentially correct for the IS models. I added the 3.a., 7.a., *.a.(in italics) to adjust it for what I found on the IS models. ceperlar
I did the oil change today... no scrapes, burns, bumps, mess, etc. I thought it would be a nightmare from reading what some folks have posted... it was no harder than any other car I've changed the oil on.
First, none of the ideas posted below are mine... they are the collective wisdom of the smart folks at CL (in particular FCobra94). I simply read all the posts and then made my own judgements when doing it. I'll summarize in hopes it'll help a newbie:
1. Warm the engine up to operating temperature. Drive it a short distance or let it idle (your preference, trade-off in time).
2. Let it cool down a bit... you don't want certain parts under there too hot. The drain plug should be warm to the touch, but not enough to burn you :eek:
3. Lay down and old blanket in front of the RX300 (comfort), it doesn't have to go underneath the vehicle. Lay down with your body parallel to the front bumper, remove the front plastic shroud.. though there are several screws, they go quickly.
3.a. The 2009 IS250 AWD , below the filter area (left front of engine block) has a split bottom shroud that is “hinged” and secured with one screw and one plastic “push-pin”. A short bungee cord to hold the shroud open is helpful.
4. spread some newspaper from the area of the drainplug to the front of the bumper. Put your oil drain pan on top of the newspaper. (I got one at AutoBarn that is a combo drain-pan/carrier)
5. Remove drain plug (it's metric). I have a screen built into my drain-pan, I simply let the plug fall down... no messy hands.
6. Now go topside and remove the oil cap from the engine block... this will allow the oil to flow freely. Take a break for about 15 minutes... have a beer.
7. Once the oil plug hole has stopped significantly draining oil, wipe the hole area clean and reinsert the plug (replace the washer with a new one if on hand). Retighten the bolt BUT DO NOT STRIP THE THREADS. If in doubt, invest in a 3/8 or 1/2 drive torque wrench, they are only about ~$20 at Home Depot. The specs for the torque are either in the OM or your service manager should be able to tell you (mine answers ANY questions I have).
7.a. I second the DO NOT STRIP THE THREADS. The oil pan is particularly flimsy. Take care.
8. Move the drain pan forward... you want to place it approx under where the filter meets the engine... just eyeball it. Now this is KEY... you have to, have to get a filter cap wrench... nothing else will allow you to have the leverage you need. Nothing. When I looked under there it was soooo obvious. Since I work on different cars, I got a mult-fit cap-wrench from Wal-mart for $4 (it's orange colored), rather than buying all the different cap sizes at $5 a pop at Pepboys.
8.a. This IS250 filter housing cap has a smaller drain plug in the center of the “cap” which will drain about 90% of the oil in the filter housing.
8.b. Then, using a filter cap wrench, remove the filter housing cap, trying to avoid the inevitable oil gush.
8.c. the Puralator replacement filter came with a plastic drain plug valve arrangement and matching o-ring which seemed a waste after following the above process. So I just replaced the full o-ring, the filter tightened things up, added the oil and was finished.
9. If you have a looong handle 3/8 drive ratchet, it will be very easy to get the filter off. I had a standard ratchet and it was still easy. The filter is still HOT.. you don't want to touch it. Put the cap wrench on the ratchet... carefully reach up (while lying on your back, but not underneath the car) so you don't get burned, and get the cap on the filter. Simply loosen, like I said, a long handle ratchet will give you a lot of leverage.
10. I simply loosened the filter SLOWLY.. until a little oil start to drip down into the drain pan (adjust pan position quickly)... and loosened some more to get a stream. It will drip pretty much straight down and contact minimal engine block area. My hands are still clean at this point.
11. Take another quick break, come back. take the ratchet off the end of the cap wrench, and reach up and simply grab the cap and complete removal of the filter. make sure you tilt it straight up once you remove it and you won't spill a drop.
12. Replace filter... fill oil... etc.. etc... check for leaks.
12.a. Ahh, she purrs like a kitten and thanks to you did the hard work, I was done in 2 hours.
I spent more time under the car sight seeing and correcting some work (that the Lexus body shop did, but that's another story) than actually changing the oil. It was sooo easy (with the right tools)... not a single cut, scrape, burn, etc. And I'm about 5'11" with a slight/medium build, was able to get under the car and reach the filter without jacks.
Ahhh... there's nothing like fresh Mobil 1 and a clean M1 filter in the baby... she's purring like a kitten!
I did the oil change today... no scrapes, burns, bumps, mess, etc. I thought it would be a nightmare from reading what some folks have posted... it was no harder than any other car I've changed the oil on.
First, none of the ideas posted below are mine... they are the collective wisdom of the smart folks at CL (in particular FCobra94). I simply read all the posts and then made my own judgements when doing it. I'll summarize in hopes it'll help a newbie:
1. Warm the engine up to operating temperature. Drive it a short distance or let it idle (your preference, trade-off in time).
2. Let it cool down a bit... you don't want certain parts under there too hot. The drain plug should be warm to the touch, but not enough to burn you :eek:
3. Lay down and old blanket in front of the RX300 (comfort), it doesn't have to go underneath the vehicle. Lay down with your body parallel to the front bumper, remove the front plastic shroud.. though there are several screws, they go quickly.
3.a. The 2009 IS250 AWD , below the filter area (left front of engine block) has a split bottom shroud that is “hinged” and secured with one screw and one plastic “push-pin”. A short bungee cord to hold the shroud open is helpful.
4. spread some newspaper from the area of the drainplug to the front of the bumper. Put your oil drain pan on top of the newspaper. (I got one at AutoBarn that is a combo drain-pan/carrier)
5. Remove drain plug (it's metric). I have a screen built into my drain-pan, I simply let the plug fall down... no messy hands.
6. Now go topside and remove the oil cap from the engine block... this will allow the oil to flow freely. Take a break for about 15 minutes... have a beer.
7. Once the oil plug hole has stopped significantly draining oil, wipe the hole area clean and reinsert the plug (replace the washer with a new one if on hand). Retighten the bolt BUT DO NOT STRIP THE THREADS. If in doubt, invest in a 3/8 or 1/2 drive torque wrench, they are only about ~$20 at Home Depot. The specs for the torque are either in the OM or your service manager should be able to tell you (mine answers ANY questions I have).
7.a. I second the DO NOT STRIP THE THREADS. The oil pan is particularly flimsy. Take care.
8. Move the drain pan forward... you want to place it approx under where the filter meets the engine... just eyeball it. Now this is KEY... you have to, have to get a filter cap wrench... nothing else will allow you to have the leverage you need. Nothing. When I looked under there it was soooo obvious. Since I work on different cars, I got a mult-fit cap-wrench from Wal-mart for $4 (it's orange colored), rather than buying all the different cap sizes at $5 a pop at Pepboys.
8.a. This IS250 filter housing cap has a smaller drain plug in the center of the “cap” which will drain about 90% of the oil in the filter housing.
8.b. Then, using a filter cap wrench, remove the filter housing cap, trying to avoid the inevitable oil gush.
8.c. the Puralator replacement filter came with a plastic drain plug valve arrangement and matching o-ring which seemed a waste after following the above process. So I just replaced the full o-ring, the filter tightened things up, added the oil and was finished.
9. If you have a looong handle 3/8 drive ratchet, it will be very easy to get the filter off. I had a standard ratchet and it was still easy. The filter is still HOT.. you don't want to touch it. Put the cap wrench on the ratchet... carefully reach up (while lying on your back, but not underneath the car) so you don't get burned, and get the cap on the filter. Simply loosen, like I said, a long handle ratchet will give you a lot of leverage.
10. I simply loosened the filter SLOWLY.. until a little oil start to drip down into the drain pan (adjust pan position quickly)... and loosened some more to get a stream. It will drip pretty much straight down and contact minimal engine block area. My hands are still clean at this point.
11. Take another quick break, come back. take the ratchet off the end of the cap wrench, and reach up and simply grab the cap and complete removal of the filter. make sure you tilt it straight up once you remove it and you won't spill a drop.
12. Replace filter... fill oil... etc.. etc... check for leaks.
12.a. Ahh, she purrs like a kitten and thanks to you did the hard work, I was done in 2 hours.
I spent more time under the car sight seeing and correcting some work (that the Lexus body shop did, but that's another story) than actually changing the oil. It was sooo easy (with the right tools)... not a single cut, scrape, burn, etc. And I'm about 5'11" with a slight/medium build, was able to get under the car and reach the filter without jacks.
Ahhh... there's nothing like fresh Mobil 1 and a clean M1 filter in the baby... she's purring like a kitten!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
