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DIY aftermarket amp power wire install step by step with pictures
#212
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BigWill345 - looks to me like you have the infamous orange wire everyone keeps talking about. The clip in the middle that is by itself I'm assuming is the 2nd clip from the most rear which is to the right. If that orange thin wire on the end is what everyone keeps talking about then that should be your remote wire
#213
Driver
iTrader: (2)
BigWill345 - looks to me like you have the infamous orange wire everyone keeps talking about. The clip in the middle that is by itself I'm assuming is the 2nd clip from the most rear which is to the right. If that orange thin wire on the end is what everyone keeps talking about then that should be your remote wire
#214
Driver School Candidate
I need some help... I have power to my amp that's a non issue, however I am running LC2i for LOC. I originally tried tapping the green and brown, the LC2i runs off the line in and did not power on when I powered the car on. So next I tried the sky blue and pink. Same thing no power on the LOC. I am getting frustrated at tapping into lines and wonder if anyone can give me some guidance.
#215
lc2i
I need some help... I have power to my amp that's a non issue, however I am running LC2i for LOC. I originally tried tapping the green and brown, the LC2i runs off the line in and did not power on when I powered the car on. So next I tried the sky blue and pink. Same thing no power on the LOC. I am getting frustrated at tapping into lines and wonder if anyone can give me some guidance.
#217
Interesting to hear this debate with tapping ONLY the sub wires vs tapping one set of door woofer wires and set of sub wires and summing them up as R and L inputs on the LOC. I wish there was a better consensus.
Logically though, it seems like taking two totally different signal levels wouldn't work and you would still be losing the door woofer input vs the sub input due to differing levels. The sub input being so much stronger than the woofer would drown out that side of things.
If you could independently increase sensitivity to just one stereo channel input then maybe.. but.. as it sits.. I don't see how tapping both would work correctly.
Logically though, it seems like taking two totally different signal levels wouldn't work and you would still be losing the door woofer input vs the sub input due to differing levels. The sub input being so much stronger than the woofer would drown out that side of things.
If you could independently increase sensitivity to just one stereo channel input then maybe.. but.. as it sits.. I don't see how tapping both would work correctly.
#218
I want to wire the LOC to the stock sub wires, but if I do how would I go about disconnecting the stock sub so it doesn't play with my aftermarket subs? Also, if I decided to remove the sub from the rear deck, will there be any wires I can wire the LOC to? I am trying to stay away from splicing into the amp wires. Help is much appreciated, thank you!
#221
Lexus Test Driver
Simply unplug both connectors going to the sub (it is a dual voice coil). This will eliminate any chance of it playing. I personally removed mine, so that I have an opening to the trunk for the bass to travel through.
As for where to tap the wires and not tap them at the amp, just follow them back down to the main harness going to the amp, and tap them where you see appropriate.
In regards to the topic of tapping the door woofers as opposed to tapping the sub, I would have to think that the doors are crossed over at a higher frequency than the factory sub and that you would likely have a higher frequency signal (125hz or so and up), and could lose low bass frequencies if using that tap for your LOC. When I was still using the LOC, I tapped the sub wires and had no issues what so ever.
As for where to tap the wires and not tap them at the amp, just follow them back down to the main harness going to the amp, and tap them where you see appropriate.
In regards to the topic of tapping the door woofers as opposed to tapping the sub, I would have to think that the doors are crossed over at a higher frequency than the factory sub and that you would likely have a higher frequency signal (125hz or so and up), and could lose low bass frequencies if using that tap for your LOC. When I was still using the LOC, I tapped the sub wires and had no issues what so ever.
#222
I tapped a combination of one set of sub wires, one set of door woofer wires and left my stock sub hooked up.. and this after playing with all combinations.
With only the sub wires hooked up, the frequency response was annoyingly narrow.. as in 30Hz - 100Hz only. Once I used one set of door woofer wires, I was able to increase the bandwidth upwards. By leaving the stock sub in, it let even more mid-bass in which was nice since the trunk mounted sub can muffle that frequency range.
With only the sub wires hooked up, the frequency response was annoyingly narrow.. as in 30Hz - 100Hz only. Once I used one set of door woofer wires, I was able to increase the bandwidth upwards. By leaving the stock sub in, it let even more mid-bass in which was nice since the trunk mounted sub can muffle that frequency range.
#223
Lexus Test Driver
I tapped a combination of one set of sub wires, one set of door woofer wires and left my stock sub hooked up.. and this after playing with all combinations.
With only the sub wires hooked up, the frequency response was annoyingly narrow.. as in 30Hz - 100Hz only. Once I used one set of door woofer wires, I was able to increase the bandwidth upwards. By leaving the stock sub in, it let even more mid-bass in which was nice since the trunk mounted sub can muffle that frequency range.
With only the sub wires hooked up, the frequency response was annoyingly narrow.. as in 30Hz - 100Hz only. Once I used one set of door woofer wires, I was able to increase the bandwidth upwards. By leaving the stock sub in, it let even more mid-bass in which was nice since the trunk mounted sub can muffle that frequency range.