Front hub assembly replacement IS 250
#16
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#23
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Hardest part for me was after removing the four bolts and sensor plug was separating the hub from the knuckle arm. I had to use a wedge and a small sledge hammer to pound it out. I was hitting it so hard thought I was going to break something. Maybe spray some WD40 in there and let it sit for a hour or so before trying to separate them.
Last edited by Meguerra; 01-08-15 at 03:11 PM.
#26
One more a new bearing doesn't need to be break in. It has to be good from the very first minute of use.
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Did you put the dust cover back on? Although it's only a couple mm thick this could cause a misalignment problem between the caliper-brake pads and rotor. If you did put it on check to see if any part of it is too close to the rotors... it may be rubbing.
Last edited by Meguerra; 01-15-15 at 11:55 AM.
#29
Lead Lap
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So.. I have a question for the rear wheel hub assembly I'm about to change mine next week is there a sensor in the rear hub? Can I re use old one if so and where is it located if so.. Any advice would be great cannot find nothing on rear for 2nd generation. Thanks
Also Torque specs... please help :/
Also Torque specs... please help :/
Last edited by Ants350; 02-11-15 at 04:14 PM.
#30
Pit Crew
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As a lifetime shadtree mechanic and former parts counter monkey, my money goes to Timken for bearings. Rockauto.com (Google for the ever-present 5% off coupon code) or get the part number for the bearing off Rockauto and look on Amazon. I'm a Amazon Prime subscriber so I get free 2 day shipping (awesome deal for brake rotors as they're so heavy) and the parts are about the same price as Rockauto once you figure the Rockauto shipping plus Amazon has it to me in less than 2 days usually.