12-15-14, 01:10 PM
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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
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DIY aftermarket amp power wire install step by step with pictures
02-21-10, 03:57 PM
#77
for anyone who is interested, i may be considering making a wiring diagram for non ML users who want to upgrade their speaker system as well. i've personally already upgraded my speakers, but anyone who is interested may be scared away because of the different colored wires, i may be able to help 
07-02-10, 08:41 PM
#82
remote trigger... HELP!!!
i have 2009 is250 non ml... and the only thing i have left to do is my remote trigger wire... can anyone please tell me the exact color and where it is for my car? i would really like to finish it today... please help me... or can tell me which one is the wire i can tap into for the cig. lighter... please help...
08-11-10, 05:28 AM
#85
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I love this old post!! I have a question though...I tapped both righ and left FRONT woofers and my ML sub. Now, I cannot tell how people SUMMED them or attached them to the LOC. Whenever I touch the two positives together from left and right woofer, the system clips and turns off....so, does summing mean what? Can anyone share how they used the 3 channel input to get 1 summed channel RCA output to amp?
09-22-10, 12:19 AM
#86
I love this old post!! I have a question though...I tapped both righ and left FRONT woofers and my ML sub. Now, I cannot tell how people SUMMED them or attached them to the LOC. Whenever I touch the two positives together from left and right woofer, the system clips and turns off....so, does summing mean what? Can anyone share how they used the 3 channel input to get 1 summed channel RCA output to amp?
Edit: 10/05/2010 By looking at the pictures, it seems that summing the front channels is done at the output of the LOC, using a Y RCA cable (2-male to 1-male). So, at the amp you arrive with one rca plug from both front-left and right speakers, and one rca plug from the factory subwoofer. Note that for this setup you must use a LOC with at least 3-channels (most likely will be a 4-channel), so that each speaker comes into the LOC individually.
Last edited by dembou; 10-04-10 at 10:50 PM. Reason: own answer
10-25-10, 07:19 PM
#87
I have the non-ml system. I used this post's information:
T-tap wires on the front woofer speaker wires. The right front door woofer wires are Brown (+) and Pink (-). The left front door woofer wires are White (+) and Red (-). Or you could just tap the factory sub wires to the new amp. The sub factory wires are sort of confusing on the schematics I have. The wires are either Pink (+) and Sky Blue (-) or Brown (+) and Light Green(-). Just pick the colors that are at the speaker for your install.
I am waiting to have someone tell us for sure which is the remote turn on for the non-ml system. I have heard different colors, but need someone here to let us know for sure. Right now my amp stays on while the car is on. Need to change this ASAP.
T-tap wires on the front woofer speaker wires. The right front door woofer wires are Brown (+) and Pink (-). The left front door woofer wires are White (+) and Red (-). Or you could just tap the factory sub wires to the new amp. The sub factory wires are sort of confusing on the schematics I have. The wires are either Pink (+) and Sky Blue (-) or Brown (+) and Light Green(-). Just pick the colors that are at the speaker for your install.
I am waiting to have someone tell us for sure which is the remote turn on for the non-ml system. I have heard different colors, but need someone here to let us know for sure. Right now my amp stays on while the car is on. Need to change this ASAP.
01-20-11, 08:42 PM
#88
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Someone posted a pdf earlier in this thread which has the wiring diagram in great detail. What it doesn't tell you is which connector is which, but for anyone who couldn't figure it out, they are A/B/D/C if you are looking down at your amp and you see the 4 connectors on top.
To answer your question, the remote wire is the really skinny orange wire on the far right (toward of the back of the car) of the 3rd connector. It's the connector with a bunch of really skinny wires going in.
To answer your question, the remote wire is the really skinny orange wire on the far right (toward of the back of the car) of the 3rd connector. It's the connector with a bunch of really skinny wires going in.
01-20-11, 08:47 PM
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99% done... then disaster
Props to the OP for the great tutorial. I followed it almost to the T, got everything working, started balancing/adjusting my amp, then when I returned to the drivers seat I noticed the entire center console had lost power. Well, the red security LED flashes, the airbag warning comes up, and the flashers button works - but nothing else. No screen, no illumination for the buttons, no clock, nothing else. The drivers gauges still work and the car starts/runs fine, but the console seems dead. What gives? I checked fuse #10 in the drivers side panel and a few others under the hood that seemed relevant, but they were fine.
Can anyone help? Not sure what else to look for! I've tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, starting the car, powering up the acc without starting the engine, etc. Nothing helps, the screen just stays black. It was working 10 seconds earlier and I really don't think I did anything to make it quit! Argh... Thx in advance.
Can anyone help? Not sure what else to look for! I've tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, starting the car, powering up the acc without starting the engine, etc. Nothing helps, the screen just stays black. It was working 10 seconds earlier and I really don't think I did anything to make it quit! Argh... Thx in advance.
