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Installed the drivers header this evening. Only dropped the f bomb 37 times. Some how I managed to get all the studs installed and tightened. It took a swivel, lots of extensions, a bible, and about 3.5 hours.
Reinstalled steering column, and interior whIle my wiring guru worked on the rest of the harness.
and at 0230 we fired it up. What a great sound.
Everything installed, minus the hood and intake pipe needs welding. Here you can see how the steering linkage and drivers header meet. There's about a 1/2" of clearance. It's enough to turn without binding, so I'll take it.
Now it's time to pick up where Brad Bedell left off. In his build he reported the factory temperature gauge no longer works with the IS300 gauge cluster. "The BEAN code is translated just enough by the UZ ecu that the IS gauge can not notice the signal". This is true. My tachometer is slightly off a dakota box can fix this. My speedometer should be accurate as the auto chassis uses the abs sensors to power the speedometer.
1) my fans do not turn on, my engine reached a temperature of 94 celsius (201.2 fahrenheit) and the fans never turned on even when I activated a/c. Another thing is that my a/c compressor isn't turning on. These could be wiring issues and we're investigating them currently. I used my HKS ob-link to confirm this.
2) Once again tachometer, it's reading 500 rpm when the vehicle is actually idling at 750 rpm. The dakota digital SGI-8E should fix this.
3) when I did the abs relocation I introduced air into the abs module (stupid me). I'll be taking it to the dealership to bleed. Since I'm no longer using a USDM ecu, I hope the USDM obd II can recognize the OBD protocol and can be used. If not, I'll be going a different, trickier route.
So I'm going to tackle these issues one at a time. 1st issue, Temp gauge. Currently I'm searching for a solution and I have 3 choices.
first choice, use the stock IS/2j ecu and install an additional coolant temp sensor and use the IS ecu to display just the coolant temperature. a total of 5 wires. 2 for sensor, 3 for ecu. finding a location for the ecu may be tricky, but since it's a low profile I can always tuck it near the firewall where the battery used to lay. There's an additional port on the uz where the factory temp sensor sits for an additional sensor.
second choice, make a gauge pod for the steering column behind the steering wheel in front of the gauges and use an aftermarket gauge setup (I really like the aesthetics of defi).
third choice, use an altezza gauge cluster. I noticed here
that the factory temp gauge was functioning, who knows the tach may be able to sync easier with the uz ecu as well (ie using a resistor to reduce the signal for a 4 cylinder tach vs the 8 cyl tach). I will still require the dakota digital SGI-8E to convert the Km/h to mph. I can do this mentally on the fly when driving, and prefer the metric system, but since we're in America it'll be more user friendly for it to be converted to mph.
These are my options and I'm leaning more towards the altezza gauges. I found a manual gauge cluster for $50 locally and found a local 240 enthusiast selling a SGI as well. Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for the altezza cluster?
after a little searching through diagrams, I discovered that 2 things. I'm an idiot and I'm missing the no.1 fan switch for the radiator.....I know exactly what happened too. It installed in my old oem radiator in an IS300 that was sold.
ordered that. also checked fuses, the fan switch fuse is missing. Great. got another one of those too. I hate when I complicate things. Fans should be turning on now, but cant test until the part comes in.
ac compressor isn't turning on for lack of pressure in ac system. a couple cans of 134 should fix this issue. I'll take care of that tonight.
Debating on which gauge set to go with. I've got an old aftermarket sensor at the shop from an auto meter gauge. I'll test fit it in the temp sensor port to see if it'll work. If not, I can buy an adapter or just go altezza gauges. currently searching for the stupid rare/expensive digital speedo gauge.
Great thread. LS430 headers are fairly unobtrusive, and Tundra headers will clear just about anything.
Interested to see how that transmission emulator works out for you.
You were interested in how the transmission emulator works, like a charm. I connected my OBD scan tool to the car and have ZERO check engine lights, or dtcs related to the auto trans. Now I still haven't driven the vehicle but I'm pretty sure with Toyota's sensitive electronics the check engine light would have lit up.
I'm still running the same auto trans emulator, it's just installed in the ecu case. I just paid the manufacturer to install it with the sub o2 simulators.
I just noticed I didn't document this: "the manual swap". Pretty easy and straight forward I didn't do the wiring aspect Qfab motorsports did all of my wiring.
As for the manual swap, it's pretty straight forward, get the clutch pedal assembly (I bought a new one from Lexus). Get a master cylinder (this is where things can be expensive or cheap). You can use the factory IS300 clutch master or you can use a mid 90's celica master cylinder. The price difference? about $165. The difference is that the celica master puts the line at a different location, but if you're running a flexible line this is no issue.
the brake pedal: this was actually pretty easy too. Instead of buying the entire brake pedal assembly with bracket and such, I just bought the pedal and pedal pad. There's some type of metal bracket pop riveted to the pedal assembly and this has to be cut off (if you did what I did and by passed the cruise brake switch, and clutch neutral safety switch). Cut that and install.
I was worried about the key lock cylinder not releasing the key because the vehicle was not in park. Nope not an issue. once you remove auto shifter the key cylinder is deactivated.
the trans tunnel shifter for a manual car is about 1.5" higher than the automatic. As you can see in the images I didn't require it for my z32 trans. I also cut a square of metal cut out an opening similar to size for the rubber boot, and bolted it to the factory auto shifter holes. Economical & efficient.
When mounting the clutch pedal don't do what I did and destroy your firewall. disassemble the clutch pedal and mount the pedal bracket to the crash bar behind the dash, you'll see the bolt aligns properly. Mark your firewall or just start drilling whichever you prefer. This is the foolproof way and will prevent you from having to have a piece of metal welded because you went full retard and measured once.
Last edited by 01MSMSXE10; 03-28-17 at 07:37 AM.
Reason: forgot to include
The water temperature gauge, I've had some free time at work on my lunch break to research more, does not work as it does not recognize the signal from the UZ ecu to the IS multiplex "mpx2, body control module". What if, I use a body control module #2 from a gs300/gs400 part 82731-30031, to intercept the coolant temp signal from the ecu and translate it to the gauge cluster?
for example:
currently the flow is this
[UZ coolant temp sensor] -> [UZ ECU] -> junction harness in engine bay -> [juction block mpx2 for IS300] -> combination meter -> gauge not working.
theoretical set up
[uz coolant temp sensor] -> [UZ ECU] -> Junction harness -> [de pinned wire for coolant gauge from IS300 MPX2] -> [GS300/400 MPX2] -> running parallel with the MPX2 from IS300 -> [combination meter].
essentially I'm removing 1 wire from the current IS300 MPX2 block and using the GS block to "translate" the code more efficiently for the IS gauges to work.
This method will take about 3-4 hours of time minus the research and wiring diagram searching, and about $20 in parts from the local junkyard.
kipod, you're more experienced with wiring than I am, what do you think of this?
I posted a video on youtube of the car running, and another user commented a link regarding a mpx signal converter for the altezza/is300 vk.com/dmgadget It's 2500 rub = $45 USD + 300 rubles for shipping = $50 total. It modifies the mpx signal for the factory IS300 gauge to function properly. This might be worth looking into.
I can't read russian, but this is the image from drive2 website.
After contemplating options, searching wiring diagrams, trying to find a GS body control ecu; I've trashed the idea of using the factory temp gauge. I ordered a depo racing digital/analog water temp gauge. Its dual display and depo has been getting some really good reviews.
even better news is that the uz water neck has an additional 1/8 npt fitting for the additional sensor. Vvti engines have 2 sensors, 1 for ecu and mpx gauges, the other is the fan switch. Non vvti engines have 3, ecu, gauge, fans.
non vvti coolant temp sender switch isn1/8 npt and the 1uz and 3uz pipes have 2 openings. Itll be an easy install. I switch out my distribution block for one that reads voltage as well. Why? All of my gauges are off by a small % . I'm charging at 13.9v 12.8v at idle after warm up gauge is reading a little less than 12v when warm. Not the end of the world.
fans are always on when ignition is turned to on because of the low pressure of the ac system.
getting the exhaust installed in a few days and shes off to the body shop for some new paint.
I've been receiving some questions about my swap and details.
1) would I do it again? Yep. Without a doubt. This thing is a fun drive. I would do stuff differently though. Instead of the xat flywheel I used, I would opt for the cd009 flywheel. This will prevent you to having to stack and can be used for acd009 swap later if you choose to do so.
2) how hard was it? Read the thread. There are 4 things needed fabrication for this set up. Exhaust manifolds, intake pipe, shifter, and fire wall modification.
3) how much did it cost? Depends on how much you want to invest. Everything I've invested so far is just a little over what an aristo engine set costs. Maybe $1200 more. I can't remember. Keep in mind I replaced every seal with oem seals.
4) any major issues with the fitment? No. It's pretty straight foward engine fits in stock crossmember, the drivers header is a pain in the you get the idea.
I do want to give special thanks to andrew and lone at the suprastore, they've both been very helpful with the clutch and flywheel and hopefully andrew reads this for his uz IS build. Brett collins for not getting annoyed by me asking him a ****ton of questions. Qfab motorsports for the wiring and assistance in fabricating the header. All4swap for the ecu, yury knows his stuff and can do the at emulator for jz engines too.
If anyone needs any info about this swap just post on the thread and I'll try to help as much as I can.
Congratulations!!!
I should finally have a personal garage soon and can't wait to be able to tackle larger projects such as this.
I'm sure it will sound awesome with the exhaust on and have a mean "presence" while cruising.
It should be an fun car to cruise in for sure.
Congratulations!!!
I should finally have a personal garage soon and can't wait to be able to tackle larger projects such as this.
I'm sure it will sound awesome with the exhaust on and have a mean "presence" while cruising.
It should be an fun car to cruise in for sure.
oh it's fun! Traction is the biggest issue
It's not that bad of a swap. If you were to keep it auto not only will the cost be MUCH less, but it should keep traction pretty well.
The only things custom that are needed for this swap: firewall modding to clear the vc on passenger side, ac lines, driver's exhaust manifold. I spoke with another IS owner that did this swap he actually was able to use the factory manifolds for his 3uz without modification. He told me what he did but said keep it on the hush hush. lol Everything else is pretty straightforward. If I kept it auto I would have needed to change the output shaft on the transmission from the 3-bolt guibo gs style to the slip yoke IS style.
Factory 3uz manifolds will not work with this set up, they hit the steering linkage and are cast so they can't be hammered. You can try to use the non vvti uz manifolds from an SC400, but I can't guarantee they'll work.
F/I is in the plans for the future, but seeing the engine bay and how tight everything is, I highly doubt that will happen unless I go supercharger and cut the hood like Brad Bedell did to his.
I still haven't scrapped the idea of custom headers. Just waiting to pick up this junk 3uz as a jig.
I'm betting sc400 manifolds will work. I suspect 2uz manifolds will work too.
$1200 cost of the swap is right on if you do most of the work. If you keep the auto it should be just over $600.
lol I wish I spent that little. I did a couple upgrades too, battery relocation and I bought excess of supplies. This car is my personal project. There are other cars at the shop that are getting swaps right now. Pretty much we're using my surplus of stock to help finish those as well.
My next project will have a larger budget, it'll be an IS, but I've got YUGE plans for that. Currently searching for a V160 bellhousing.
Finally a day off to install the exhaust! I took my muffler, resonators x pipe and tips and had a local muffler shop make the exhaust system. I'm very pleased with the sound.
The exhaust looks great! One question. Is the Camry intake you're using 3 inches?
yes it is. Measured a busted gs400 intake box, an compared it to an aristo pipe diameter. All measured 3". This was the reasoning for camry pipe choice. It's the cheapest option and modification will be needed. So no point in spending excessive amounts for some thing that has to be cut and welded.
03-26-17, 12:06 AM
