450h alignment and road noise
#16
Driver School Candidate
I have a 2015 RX 450 H, purchased 12/14/14, now with 22,000 miles. I have excessive tire noise, from 19 Dunlaps (OEM). Dealer stated tires are "cupping", which "happens on the Hybrids???".
Dealer advises not a safety issue, tire still have 70% life. Tires are rotated every 5,000 miles.
Any one else had this issue? Considering switching to Michilan Latitudes for a quieter ride, but I I don't want to drop $1,500+ and get "cupping" on a new set of shoes.
Any TSO's on this issue?
Thanks
#17
No, I don't play soccer!
Cupping has nothing to do with being a hybrid. Some dealers
Dunflops as I like to call them are super soft. Check out the treadwear rating compared to any of the other OE brands. I took mine off the 450h at 16K. You can read more about it in the tire thread and get recommendations.
Dunflops as I like to call them are super soft. Check out the treadwear rating compared to any of the other OE brands. I took mine off the 450h at 16K. You can read more about it in the tire thread and get recommendations.
#18
Lead Lap
Cupping and Hybrids?!? Please.
When no hint of worn steering linkage is evident (as in: for a new vehicle), the usual cause for cupping is an out-of-balance tire/wheel condition. Another giveaway indicator of that (balance issue) is tire noise that pulses (wahwahwahwah) and is not a constant drone or growl (often mistaken to be a bad wheel bearing) like frequently happens on unidirectional performance tires that never get rotated (because of different front-vs-rear tire sizes).
My $0.02 is on an instantly-noticeable improvement (and possibly a reduction in cupping) by a simple-but-competent rebalancing of your tires.
Please send the two cents to the dealer along with a copy of your success story.
When no hint of worn steering linkage is evident (as in: for a new vehicle), the usual cause for cupping is an out-of-balance tire/wheel condition. Another giveaway indicator of that (balance issue) is tire noise that pulses (wahwahwahwah) and is not a constant drone or growl (often mistaken to be a bad wheel bearing) like frequently happens on unidirectional performance tires that never get rotated (because of different front-vs-rear tire sizes).
My $0.02 is on an instantly-noticeable improvement (and possibly a reduction in cupping) by a simple-but-competent rebalancing of your tires.
Please send the two cents to the dealer along with a copy of your success story.
#19
Driver School Candidate
My Car is getting the rear wheels re-balanced and maybe the front ones also if needed this week. I will keep you posted with hopefully quieter results. Later.
#20
My 08 450h has about 108k miles. I bought it used last August with 98k and I checked the tires for uneven wear when I purchased it. I didn't see anything crazy, so I bought it and took it from CA to Louisiana and back to CA.
I just bought some aftermarket staggers wheels and new Toyo tires. When I removed my factory set I noticed the front inside edge is cupped severely about 12" around then less severe then severe again for about another 8". This is bad on the left side but not quite as bad on the right, but still apparent.
The car does not pull, does not vibrate, does not bounce, handles great, no clunking, no noise, nothing.
Any suggestions?
I also just special ordered Tanabe springs from Japan for the Hybrid version GS (that's the only place to get them), and I want to figure out the tire wear issue before I throw another "variable" (a/m springs) into the equation.
I just bought some aftermarket staggers wheels and new Toyo tires. When I removed my factory set I noticed the front inside edge is cupped severely about 12" around then less severe then severe again for about another 8". This is bad on the left side but not quite as bad on the right, but still apparent.
The car does not pull, does not vibrate, does not bounce, handles great, no clunking, no noise, nothing.
Any suggestions?
I also just special ordered Tanabe springs from Japan for the Hybrid version GS (that's the only place to get them), and I want to figure out the tire wear issue before I throw another "variable" (a/m springs) into the equation.
My 450h (23000 miles) developed some road noise at cruise speeds. I was told that all 4 tires are worn on the inside edge and that they need replacement and the car a full alignment. The car does not pull in either direction and will track with hands off the wheel. I looked at the tires before being notified of this and did not notice any severe alignment wear.
To me having all 4 tires go bad sounds like a small but consistent to both sides misalignment in place since I bought the car. The car has also had regular service with no mention of the alignment or tire wear.
My $150 20k mile service just turned into $1200.
To me having all 4 tires go bad sounds like a small but consistent to both sides misalignment in place since I bought the car. The car has also had regular service with no mention of the alignment or tire wear.
My $150 20k mile service just turned into $1200.
#21
#22
Sorry. I have a 2008 GS450h. My original tires were wore completely out. I purchased a new set of wheels and tires as well as Tanabe lowering springs from Japan. Only lowered it about .7" and 1.2".
Now I have a slight camber issue in the rear after the alignment. The tech told me the rear has no adjustment therefore can't be aligned and I'll need a camber kit. I'm looking for a kit that will allow at least 2.5° adjustment. <br >
<br > <br > <br >
Now I have a slight camber issue in the rear after the alignment. The tech told me the rear has no adjustment therefore can't be aligned and I'll need a camber kit. I'm looking for a kit that will allow at least 2.5° adjustment. <br >
<br > <br > <br >
#23
Sorry. I have a 2008 GS450h. My original tires were wore completely out. I purchased a new set of wheels and tires as well as Tanabe lowering springs from Japan. Only lowered it about .7" and 1.2".
Now I have a slight camber issue in the rear after the alignment. The tech told me the rear has no adjustment therefore can't be aligned and I'll need a camber kit. I'm looking for a kit that will allow at least 2.5° adjustment.
Now I have a slight camber issue in the rear after the alignment. The tech told me the rear has no adjustment therefore can't be aligned and I'll need a camber kit. I'm looking for a kit that will allow at least 2.5° adjustment.
Do you remember how much camber you had in the rear? -1 to -1.5-ish isn't too bad. If it's over -2 then yes tire wear would be a problem.
As long as your tires/wheels are balanced properly and your alignment is decent and your suspension isn't dead then you would be fine for a good while.
FYI: We are in the 3RX Hybrid section.
#24
Driver School Candidate
#25
That sucks to hear with such low mileage. Maybe an alignment check will help? I suppose it's possible that you may have hit a big bump or pothole. But that wouldn't fix the cupping of the tires. That damage has already been done and you are likely stuck with that noise until you need to change tires.
#26
Lead Lap
Correcting an out-of-balance condition that has resulted in cupping usually halts the progression of cupping; and while a slight but immediate improvement in the wawawawawa isn't total, as the tire wears to the depth of the deepest cups the noise frequently disappears.
A rebalance at the next tire rotation further improves upon the cycle.
Caviat: if you are able to spin and inspect the runout of the tire/wheel note that even a perfectly balanced tire that's not true (I.e.: is not round and/or is wobbling) will never wear satisfactorily.
A rebalance at the next tire rotation further improves upon the cycle.
Caviat: if you are able to spin and inspect the runout of the tire/wheel note that even a perfectly balanced tire that's not true (I.e.: is not round and/or is wobbling) will never wear satisfactorily.
#27
Driver School Candidate
Whah-Whah noise appears to be declining, not a safety issue, I am going to live with the current set of tires until about 30,000 miles and then if I don't trade up to a 2017 RX "L" 450h (new model with third seat) I will get the baby a new pair of shoes all around, i.e. Michilan Latitudes for a quieter ride.
On the positive side, with summer gas now available, I am averaging 33 MPG in local driving, but highway drops to a bit. Overall average MPG is 31.5 and last fill up was 16 gallons with 502 miles on the trip meter. This is about 1.5 better MPG better than last summer. Cold tire pressure is recommended 33 PSI, but on the highway and the summer heat it goes to 36-38 PSI.
On the positive side, with summer gas now available, I am averaging 33 MPG in local driving, but highway drops to a bit. Overall average MPG is 31.5 and last fill up was 16 gallons with 502 miles on the trip meter. This is about 1.5 better MPG better than last summer. Cold tire pressure is recommended 33 PSI, but on the highway and the summer heat it goes to 36-38 PSI.
#28
Lead Lap
When I was working on cars (back when rocks were still soft) we used a Hunter spin balancer that provided an on-the-car balance that could (if the mechanic was capable) PERFECTLY balance the whole assembly (tire/wheel/brake rotor/drum). Rear wheels of an open (not Positraction) differential could also be individually balanced.
I've seen way too many tire guys throw on a wheel weight that is "close" to the prescribed (as indicated by the machine) weight and/but neither recheck the balance nor look at the spinning mass to ensure that the wheel was effectively centered and spinning true.
An ounce of misplaced weight (the shake) can be masked by new shocks for a while; but as the tire wears the "heavy side" areas heavily touching the roadway due to the imbalance - asymmetrical wear (aka cupping) results.
While you can't put back worn rubber, you can often put it back into balance and let the remaining rubber wear even out,
At least now you shouldn't feel any imbalance as the tires wear.
I've seen way too many tire guys throw on a wheel weight that is "close" to the prescribed (as indicated by the machine) weight and/but neither recheck the balance nor look at the spinning mass to ensure that the wheel was effectively centered and spinning true.
An ounce of misplaced weight (the shake) can be masked by new shocks for a while; but as the tire wears the "heavy side" areas heavily touching the roadway due to the imbalance - asymmetrical wear (aka cupping) results.
While you can't put back worn rubber, you can often put it back into balance and let the remaining rubber wear even out,
At least now you shouldn't feel any imbalance as the tires wear.
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