Transfer case leak
#64
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: ok
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I have driven the GX over 500 miles so far after replaced the O ring and there is no more leak. Try to go to another shop and dont mention anything about the TSB, just tell them that you have a leak on your transfer case actuator ( I assumed this is where your transfer case is leaking), and tell them that you already bought the new O ring for the actuator and see what they will do for you. Let me know if you have any other question.
#68
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: al
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well i was a little late getting the O-ring in my wifes car. I just finished up 30 mins. ago. My wife has an 04 gx 470. The leak started around 110,000 and she has 139,000 now. I ordered the o-ring back in feb. but never installed it until now. I just could not look at the oil on the carport any more.
I replaced the o-ring around the actuator. The old one was flat as a pancake.
The directions from here were spot on. But there is a couple of things I got confused on.
1. In the post with the steps that explain how to remove the actuator, there was 4 bolts to remove then 2 other bolts. Mine only had a total of 3 bolts.
2. The picture that man77 posted showing the actuator out of the transfer case,had a shaft still attached to it. When I pulled the actuator out , after removing the 3 bolts,there was no shaft that came out. The only thing I had in my hand was the back part of the actuator. The other shaft (the one with the teeth ) stayed attached to the transfer case. unlike the picture which showed a smooth shaft attached to the actuator. I did not notice if there was another shaft that was still in the transfer case.
3. I had to twist the actuator like the instruction said to get the teeth to to break loose. I was a little worried doing this, but i did come off.
The only thing that worries me now is why I did not see a Picture like man77 had with the smooth shaft still attached to the actuator. If anyone knows please respond.
I drove the car to the gas station and back. There was no oil around the actuator when i got home. I guess time will tell if this works.
PS. The toyota place wanted $2,200 to split the transfer case and change out this o-ring. I purcased the o-ring for $1.34 and took 45 mins. to repair, that is if it does work. I guess there is a chance that it wont, but for now, there is no oil leaking and the car drives the same.
I replaced the o-ring around the actuator. The old one was flat as a pancake.
The directions from here were spot on. But there is a couple of things I got confused on.
1. In the post with the steps that explain how to remove the actuator, there was 4 bolts to remove then 2 other bolts. Mine only had a total of 3 bolts.
2. The picture that man77 posted showing the actuator out of the transfer case,had a shaft still attached to it. When I pulled the actuator out , after removing the 3 bolts,there was no shaft that came out. The only thing I had in my hand was the back part of the actuator. The other shaft (the one with the teeth ) stayed attached to the transfer case. unlike the picture which showed a smooth shaft attached to the actuator. I did not notice if there was another shaft that was still in the transfer case.
3. I had to twist the actuator like the instruction said to get the teeth to to break loose. I was a little worried doing this, but i did come off.
The only thing that worries me now is why I did not see a Picture like man77 had with the smooth shaft still attached to the actuator. If anyone knows please respond.
I drove the car to the gas station and back. There was no oil around the actuator when i got home. I guess time will tell if this works.
PS. The toyota place wanted $2,200 to split the transfer case and change out this o-ring. I purcased the o-ring for $1.34 and took 45 mins. to repair, that is if it does work. I guess there is a chance that it wont, but for now, there is no oil leaking and the car drives the same.
#69
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: UT
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update?
I have the same problem on my 04 4Runner, I have the O-Ring in hand and am contemplating the next step.
Any update from those who have pulled the actuator off without dropping the t-case?
Thanks!
Any update from those who have pulled the actuator off without dropping the t-case?
Thanks!
#70
Gents ....it is a very easy job...remove the actuator, you will know the source of the leak. The Small Blackbox is the culprit to all these issues. This replacement is quite simple for the replacement of the O-Ring within. Only think to remember whatever you remove, just remember the sequence to the removal and refit.
#71
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gents ....it is a very easy job...remove the actuator, you will know the source of the leak. The Small Blackbox is the culprit to all these issues. This replacement is quite simple for the replacement of the O-Ring within. Only think to remember whatever you remove, just remember the sequence to the removal and refit.
#73
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I had the PN 90301-56009 o-ring replaced this past weekend. I decided to have a shop do it. Pretty simple and only charged me $60.00. But as I look at the black triangular plate; it has a little drip on it ready to drip. Am I missing something? Is there another o-ring or did the guy just screw it up? It's hard to belive he screwed it up. When he took out the (3) screws holding the part on I noticed that shaft stayed in the TC. Is that right? And he showed me the old o-ring that he replaced. Any input as to why it could still leak??
#74
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Nevada
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same thing happened to me, I used break cleaner to heavily sprayed the TC, and wiped cleaned
the whole thing around and behind every where you can get to, and no more drip and it stays nice and dry.
so it was the residue oil from previous leak, you would think the dealer techs would clean the TC since they had it out for repair, they didn't, figured no body would look underneath the car.
Hopefully yours is the same.
the whole thing around and behind every where you can get to, and no more drip and it stays nice and dry.
so it was the residue oil from previous leak, you would think the dealer techs would clean the TC since they had it out for repair, they didn't, figured no body would look underneath the car.
Hopefully yours is the same.
#75
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same thing happened to me, I used break cleaner to heavily sprayed the TC, and wiped cleaned
the whole thing around and behind every where you can get to, and no more drip and it stays nice and dry.
so it was the residue oil from previous leak, you would think the dealer techs would clean the TC since they had it out for repair, they didn't, figured no body would look underneath the car.
Hopefully yours is the same.
the whole thing around and behind every where you can get to, and no more drip and it stays nice and dry.
so it was the residue oil from previous leak, you would think the dealer techs would clean the TC since they had it out for repair, they didn't, figured no body would look underneath the car.
Hopefully yours is the same.