Kaneeast

I did have it cut down to help speed up th build process of my project. But my GX handled the load just fine!

IanB2

Saturday night on our way home, started hearing a "crunchy" noise from the front of the GX. We were close to home, hoped it was just a branch dragging under the truck or something, as it had been storming and was raining at the time.

Sunday morning I still couldn't find anything obviously wrong, a very brief test drive proved the issue was still present, jacked the front up and spun the tires by hand, and discovered the driver's side CV was making noise. Messed with the inner boot a bit, and some water dripped out. Checked the passenger side to find the boot was actually split in 2, so you know it was only days/weeks behind the other side!

Priced out new OEM axles at $550CAN each. Bought some aftermarket for $103 each. As the one was already crunchy I wasn't about to mess around with re-greasing/re-booting. Found a DIY on www.4Runner.org that walked me though it. The new ones don't have the nice indents to pry/strike to get them popped in/out as the OEM ones, but I managed to get the driver's side done last night. Should get the passenger side done tonight, refill the front diff, and get a test drive in before calling it a night. Stockers lasted 190,000kms, not bad.

MidniteGX

Pulled off the pintle hitch and had the dealer mount a frame mounted oem reciever, picked up an Andersen hitch and towed a 5500# travel trailer to the hot springs in the BC Rockies with five in the truck and five bikes in the trailer. The GX pulled like a Clydesdale team, never overheating or acting tired. Headed south soon to camp in the Crowsnest Pass with more family.

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

mine need to be replaced also at 130k miles, one of them has been torn next to the small clamp and looks like lost a lot of grease, I don't think it will be a good idea for DIY regreasing or reboot, definitely will need an axle builder's attention.

Good job doing it yourself too, the labor for this job which seems pretty simple is quite expensive for mechanics quoting by the book.


What I did today, I bought 2 infrared headphone for $18 each and they work with the Lexus rear audio, pretty cool but I don't have rear entertainment, and the factory deck doesn't have aux input, now I am thinking what to do with the headphones, would my passengers really want to listen to a separate source? I don't really need this but trying to create that business class experience, lol. I am thinking of using a tape adapter as aux from tablet or portable dvd player.
The rear audio can only work with the remote it comes with, and I thought it was busted because it had a battery checked at 3V, but it only worked after I put another brand new battery in it.

IanB2

No doubt, labor costs are atrocious for this job, if I'd paid the dealer to do it I'd have a $1500+ bill to pay! I was able to do it for about $250 and 2 evenings of my time, very worth it IMO.

Here's a copy/paste of the DIY instructions I used, for anyone looking to take this on themselves. Things I'd change are draining the front diff before you remove any axles, diff fluid is stinky and I don't need it all over me and the floor where I'm working. Very helpful to have a 2nd person to pull the brake/upper control arm out of the way, and lightly pull on the end of the axle when you're trying to pop it out, and when you're putting the new axle in. I also used a couple different sized flat screwdrivers, and chisel end punches to get the dust cap off, just keep working your way around with bigger wedges till it pops.

Tools
1 21mm socket
1 19mm socket
1 17mm socket
1 35mm socket
1 10mm hex head socket
BFH (big effing hammer)
Also a rubber mallet is a plus...or just hit the old axle with the big one as it's coming out anyways.
1 short prybar (12 inches)
1 long prybar (36 inches)
little screwdriver and little hammer to pop off the dust cover

Materials
1 new/remanned axle
1 cotter pin
1.5 quarts of gear lube 80/90 or 75/90


Removal

1. Jack up the truck, take off the tire.
2. Take off the two 19mm bolts under the bottom of the rotor that attach it to the control arm.
3. Take off the sway bar endlink from the knuckle 17mm nut.
4. Get a screw driver and pound it in to pop off the outside black dust cover. (be gentle and patient don't deform it just go slow and work your way around the cover.)
5. Take out the cotter pin that hold on the little thingy around the big hub nut.
6. Take a 35mm socket to the hub nut. (I used an air impact and it came right off....good luck with a big bar
7. Take a rubber mallet and hit the center threads of the old axle to loosen it from the hub...make sure it starts moving a bit. A few good whacks should loosen it up.
8. Have a buddy swing out the rotor a bit while you push the threads through the hub (possibly some light taps with the hammer to get it through) Also, DON'T pry on the inside of the hub...could screw up some bearings.
9. Now you got the outside out...use a slide hammer (who has one of those?) Or a pry bar and a huge hammer...HUGE being the keyword. I used a 10 lb sledge. But just light swings on it. The weight is the key. You can't wind up anyways...just some light/medium taps with the huge hammer and it should start coming out. Keep the taps coming until you can wiggle it... (good to have a buddy on the other end supporting the axle some.)
10. Get a bucket, the gear oil will start dripping out (smells worse than death)

Install

1. lube up the new axle with grease. Make sure C-clip opening is facing up.
2. Set it in place and push it in as far as you can with your hands.
3. Get a really big pry bar (~36 inches) and thread it in there to get on the lip of the axle.
4. Use said HUGE hammer...and some gentle taps and it will go in.
5. Move the rotor out a bit and thread in the other end into the hub (easy)
6. Put the hub nut back on. along with the sway bar nut and the bottom control arm bolt and voila all done. and the tire...

BTW refill with oil using 10mm hex socket

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

Changed the pair of hood struts today, oil started leaking out of one as soon as I started to wrench on it. Had the wife hold up the hood, took maybe 10 minutes. After installing it was so stiff it took a bit of courage to bring down the hood.
Armstrong brand .. I don't think pictures are needed.

IanB2

It would appear my work is not yet done in an effort to rid our GX of the "crunchy noise" that started it all off. The CV's were definitely in need of replacement, and the driver's side caliper was definitely seized and dragging, but the noise persists. Finally figured out the driver's side wheel bearing is shot, wheel can be moved 12-6 as well as 9-3 while the other side is tight. Tough to diagnose without doing that test, as it doesn't seem to make noise with the truck jacked up and the weight off the wheel, but I was able to find the other issues mentioned earlier.

Going with some pre-assembled bearings assemblies to make this a bolt off, bolt on affair, with no need for a press, or an alignment afterwards. Sourced from this guy in NJ, uses premium parts, and I should have the truck back up and running for next weekend.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t...ml#post1489467

chiph9

Went down a gravel road. Put it in low range and locked the differential to give them some exercise.

Chip H.

tz693

Rotated the Front/Rear wheels. Not sure why the fronts worn faster? Is it just simply the front end heavier?

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Heavier, turns, camber, caster, toe... Exactly why we rotate, or else, we wouldn't need to if they all wore the same.

rhyle07

Want to add some aux lights on the front so I decided to get a Westin safari light bar from 4 wheel online. I chose the black powdercoated finish. Pics will be up next time.

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

- installed mesh curtains for the rear passengers.. for an important little guy.

- new dash - everything went well.

- black pearl chrome license plate frame? the black is more subtle than I thought.

IanB2

Mesh curtain is to catch glass should the window shatter?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think its just to block out the sun more, not a glass catcher...

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

It may? We added it for extra sun protection, the GX has a large window which my son likes but when it is nap time we wanted to dim the cabin because direct sun on his face could wake him up. It can be drawn to one side too but I am able to shoulder check even at night.

I wanted to check if I left something in the car the other night have a hard time looking inside with a flashlight.