Transfer case leak
08-30-15, 10:45 PM
#152
I don't understand why you did all that bench testing claiming pulling out the actuator will damage and crack and plastic internally but then you went ahead and do this? What changed your mind about the irreversible damage?
Are you saying yours came straight out without twisting and there was no damage at all, it sounds like it. So what is different from the one on your car vs the one you tested at the bench?
Finally, did you ever tested if the Lo range lock works?
Are you saying yours came straight out without twisting and there was no damage at all, it sounds like it. So what is different from the one on your car vs the one you tested at the bench?
Finally, did you ever tested if the Lo range lock works?
Can't let this thread die! 35,000+ views and counting.
Well, today was the day!
Changed the actuator o-ring.
Nothing went as planned.
I had written a 4-page step-by-step procedure to follow. I rehearsed the procedure many times on the spare actuator. I’ll cut to the ending first. New o-ring is on and there is no leak! Truck drives perfectly in 4-high with diff unlocked. Not sure WHAT will happen if I shift to 4-low and the diff tries to lock.
I tried to pull back the actuator as described many times on the forums. I knew something was wrong as soon as I pulled back on the actuator. First the rack pulled out of the transfer case about 1” and that is probably the normal amount. I gingerly pulled back on the actuator to make sure it was at the end of the travel. The actuator just kept pulling off the rack! ALL THE WAY OFF THE BACK OF THE RACK!
No twisting no crunching; it could have been walked off with just my pinky fingers, no tugging involved.
The gears in the actuator were locked so the actuator was just sliding off the rack.
At this point, I figured someone had already tried to do the “pull & twist” repair and screwed it up.
However, the o-ring was flat and had not been changed - unless it was done many years ago. I have a very cool lighted magnifier and was able to inspect the inside of the actuator through the rack hole. Nothing wrong in there. No cracked plastic and the drive gear looked O.K. No evidence of oil in the actuator housing, so I didn’t change the rack oil seal.
So, WTF? I had written, tested, and had a proven repair procedure ready to go, but couldn’t use it.
I cleaned everything, installed a new o-ring and greased the rack. Put it all back together by just sliding the actuator back on the rack and bolted it up to the transfer case. Their is some tension on the actuator rack as I could feel it pressing the actuator into the case, so it’s solidly in the unlocked position. (There's a clock spring on the drive gear to help keep tension on the rack and hold it in the unlocked position) Didn't know what type oil was in the case, so I changed the oil (looked like it had JUST been changed). Used Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90.
Now the big question is, will the drive gear engage the teeth on the rack and pull the rack to the locked position? I want to be able to use 4-low, so I need to find out. My plan is to explain my predicament to a Lexus service manager, get a quote for a new actuator install. If the quote sounds reasonable (around $2200), I’ll try to put the GX into the locked position right there at the Lexus dealer and see what happens. I’ll either be leaving the dealership in my GX or a loaner!
TIP: For cleaning the diff oil off the driveway I used “Purple Power Driveway and Concrete Cleaner” This stuff works! Scrubbed it into the concrete with a metal brush and an acid brush on a long handle. Only about $9.00 for a gallon of concentrate at Advance Auto. I may have killed my neighbor's grass...
New o-ring is on the right.
Clock Spring on Drive Gear
Well, today was the day!
Changed the actuator o-ring.
Nothing went as planned.
I had written a 4-page step-by-step procedure to follow. I rehearsed the procedure many times on the spare actuator. I’ll cut to the ending first. New o-ring is on and there is no leak! Truck drives perfectly in 4-high with diff unlocked. Not sure WHAT will happen if I shift to 4-low and the diff tries to lock.
I tried to pull back the actuator as described many times on the forums. I knew something was wrong as soon as I pulled back on the actuator. First the rack pulled out of the transfer case about 1” and that is probably the normal amount. I gingerly pulled back on the actuator to make sure it was at the end of the travel. The actuator just kept pulling off the rack! ALL THE WAY OFF THE BACK OF THE RACK!
No twisting no crunching; it could have been walked off with just my pinky fingers, no tugging involved.
The gears in the actuator were locked so the actuator was just sliding off the rack.
At this point, I figured someone had already tried to do the “pull & twist” repair and screwed it up.
However, the o-ring was flat and had not been changed - unless it was done many years ago. I have a very cool lighted magnifier and was able to inspect the inside of the actuator through the rack hole. Nothing wrong in there. No cracked plastic and the drive gear looked O.K. No evidence of oil in the actuator housing, so I didn’t change the rack oil seal.
So, WTF? I had written, tested, and had a proven repair procedure ready to go, but couldn’t use it.
I cleaned everything, installed a new o-ring and greased the rack. Put it all back together by just sliding the actuator back on the rack and bolted it up to the transfer case. Their is some tension on the actuator rack as I could feel it pressing the actuator into the case, so it’s solidly in the unlocked position. (There's a clock spring on the drive gear to help keep tension on the rack and hold it in the unlocked position) Didn't know what type oil was in the case, so I changed the oil (looked like it had JUST been changed). Used Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90.
Now the big question is, will the drive gear engage the teeth on the rack and pull the rack to the locked position? I want to be able to use 4-low, so I need to find out. My plan is to explain my predicament to a Lexus service manager, get a quote for a new actuator install. If the quote sounds reasonable (around $2200), I’ll try to put the GX into the locked position right there at the Lexus dealer and see what happens. I’ll either be leaving the dealership in my GX or a loaner!
TIP: For cleaning the diff oil off the driveway I used “Purple Power Driveway and Concrete Cleaner” This stuff works! Scrubbed it into the concrete with a metal brush and an acid brush on a long handle. Only about $9.00 for a gallon of concentrate at Advance Auto. I may have killed my neighbor's grass...
New o-ring is on the right.
Clock Spring on Drive Gear
Last edited by SC3coupe; 08-30-15 at 11:34 PM.
08-31-15, 10:28 AM
#153
alot of people go ahead and do it cause at the end of the day alot of people wont be able to pull the transfer case, split it open, replace seal, put it back together and put it back in transmission, fill it up, its not like a brake job and the bolts on the top of the transfer case are difficult to get to (not impossible but not my fav job by a longshot).
you also have to take apart part of the interior to remove the high/low shift lever on the GX470 as its a mechanical forward shift design, so it has to come out or transfer case wont back out of the transmission.
so doing the shortcut if you worst case scenario mess it up, then you have to pull the transfer case, so the shortcut can save alot of time.
the only bad side to the shortcut is if it doesnt work you can damage it and if its damaged the actuator is not really available by itself so you are basically looking at a replacement transfer case.
so it can save you all the labor involved in doing it properly, or you might end up doing the labor anyways if it doesnt work, or if it doesnt work and you break it in the process then add the cost of a new or used transfer case
I replaced the one in mine with a newer one with less miles and no leaks and it works flawlessly. the bearings in my case were busted already so I did not attempt the shortcut repair, but would give it a try if it happened again cause its not that fun to drop the transfer case.
I would imagine you would not want to move the car at all between removing the actuator and putting it back in. have the handbrake up, dont let it move a mm.
that way it should go back in exactly how it came out.
one thing I noticed is that some people are talking about GX's and some people are talking about 4runners...
the actuators are not exactly the same. the GX only has one rod on the plastic actuator, and the 4runner has 2 rods on the plastic actuator...
maybe thats why some people have to twist and wiggle and some don't??
I haven't done it via this method but I have opened up the transfer case fully so I know there is only one rod on the GX actuator, its for the center diff lock button.
the 4runner has a center diff lock button, and also has a electronic selector for high and low, hence why it has 2 rods.
the GX shouldn't be that hard to pull out one rod, so if you don't have to twist and wiggle as much as everyone else I don't think it would be a big deal. I bet the person in the post above it locked fine after they put it back in. sometimes it will blink until you drive it around and it can lock, but that is pretty normal.
you also have to take apart part of the interior to remove the high/low shift lever on the GX470 as its a mechanical forward shift design, so it has to come out or transfer case wont back out of the transmission.
so doing the shortcut if you worst case scenario mess it up, then you have to pull the transfer case, so the shortcut can save alot of time.
the only bad side to the shortcut is if it doesnt work you can damage it and if its damaged the actuator is not really available by itself so you are basically looking at a replacement transfer case.
so it can save you all the labor involved in doing it properly, or you might end up doing the labor anyways if it doesnt work, or if it doesnt work and you break it in the process then add the cost of a new or used transfer case
I replaced the one in mine with a newer one with less miles and no leaks and it works flawlessly. the bearings in my case were busted already so I did not attempt the shortcut repair, but would give it a try if it happened again cause its not that fun to drop the transfer case.
I would imagine you would not want to move the car at all between removing the actuator and putting it back in. have the handbrake up, dont let it move a mm.
that way it should go back in exactly how it came out.
one thing I noticed is that some people are talking about GX's and some people are talking about 4runners...
the actuators are not exactly the same. the GX only has one rod on the plastic actuator, and the 4runner has 2 rods on the plastic actuator...
maybe thats why some people have to twist and wiggle and some don't??
I haven't done it via this method but I have opened up the transfer case fully so I know there is only one rod on the GX actuator, its for the center diff lock button.
the 4runner has a center diff lock button, and also has a electronic selector for high and low, hence why it has 2 rods.
the GX shouldn't be that hard to pull out one rod, so if you don't have to twist and wiggle as much as everyone else I don't think it would be a big deal. I bet the person in the post above it locked fine after they put it back in. sometimes it will blink until you drive it around and it can lock, but that is pretty normal.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-31-15 at 10:42 AM.
08-31-15, 10:43 AM
#154
one thing I noticed is that some people are talking about GX's and some people are talking about 4runners...
the actuators are not exactly the same. the GX only has one rod on the plastic actuator, and the 4runner has 2 rods on the plastic actuator...
maybe thats why some people have to twist and wiggle and some don't??
I haven't done it via this method but I have opened up the transfer case fully so I know there is only one rod on the GX actuator, its for the center diff lock button.
the 4runner has a center diff lock button, and also has a electronic selector for high and low, hence why it has 2 rods.
the GX shouldn't be that hard to pull out one rod, so if you don't have to twist and wiggle as much as everyone else I don't think it would be a big deal. I bet the person in the post above it locked fine after they put it back in. sometimes it will blink until you drive it around and it can lock, but that is pretty normal.
the actuators are not exactly the same. the GX only has one rod on the plastic actuator, and the 4runner has 2 rods on the plastic actuator...
maybe thats why some people have to twist and wiggle and some don't??
I haven't done it via this method but I have opened up the transfer case fully so I know there is only one rod on the GX actuator, its for the center diff lock button.
the 4runner has a center diff lock button, and also has a electronic selector for high and low, hence why it has 2 rods.
the GX shouldn't be that hard to pull out one rod, so if you don't have to twist and wiggle as much as everyone else I don't think it would be a big deal. I bet the person in the post above it locked fine after they put it back in. sometimes it will blink until you drive it around and it can lock, but that is pretty normal.
Maybe people found that twisting will free it easily but infact you a breaking the plastic inside like a cheap toy. What I think is that even if you have broken the guide inside, upon reassembly the rod doesn't flex to come off the gear and the box is held by the bolts so it may still work fine.
Unless there is play on the rod coming out of transfercase, but with the c-clip and oil seal I don't think there is much room to flex around and miss the gear engagement.
08-31-15, 03:33 PM
#155
Pole Position
I don't understand why you did all that bench testing claiming pulling out the actuator will damage and crack and plastic internally but then you went ahead and do this? What changed your mind about the irreversible damage?
Are you saying yours came straight out without twisting and there was no damage at all, it sounds like it. So what is different from the one on your car vs the one you tested at the bench?
Finally, did you ever tested if the Lo range lock works?
Are you saying yours came straight out without twisting and there was no damage at all, it sounds like it. So what is different from the one on your car vs the one you tested at the bench?
Finally, did you ever tested if the Lo range lock works?
Let me try and answer your questions.
"... but then you went ahead and do this?" Yes I did.
Go back far enough in the thread, you'll see that I came up with a way to electrically drive the rod out of the actuator case without forcing or twisting. When I went to do this procedure, the actuator pretty much 'fell off' the rod all by itself before I even started the electrical procedure I was going to do. All I did was remove the mounting bolts and pull back on the actuator housing. While pulling back, I must have twisted the actuator slightly, because the rod unhooked from the gear in the actuator housing and the actuator came right off. I replaced the seals and reinstalled the actuator - GENTLY twisted the actuator to engage the rod teeth on the gear in the actuator, pulled back on the actuator to make sure the teeth were really engaged, pushed the actuator back up against the transfer case and installed the bolts.
"Finally, did you ever tested if the Lo range lock works?"
Lo range and lock are working perfectly! No question. I've tested in a parking lot on a rainy day and also off-road. Locks and unlocks like it should. I can definitely feel when it is locked by doing tight turns on wet asphalt. So, I know it really locks and it's not just the lock light coming on. As Ali SC3 mentioned, sometimes you have to drive a bit to get it to lock and unlock - that's normal.
Apparently, the rod just needs to engage the end teeth on the gear in the actuator. My actuator did not require the use of any force to remove or reinstall.
(I suppose there's a chance a previous owner already did an o-ring replacement on the truck and broke the plastic guide inside the actuator and that's the reason it came off so easy.)
Whatever, the actuator unhooked easily and reconnected just as easy. It was nothing like the posts that mention cracking sounds when removing.
It's worth a try doing it yourself. Disconnect the electrical connector, unbolt the actuator, pull the actuator back away from the transfer case, when it stops, gently twist the actuator to disengage it from the rack. If the actuator does not come off with a gentle twist, you might want to stop and consider going to the dealer for the repair. .
Good luck everyone. This repair scared the hell out of me, but it all worked out. Did this over a year ago and still not a drop of oil on the driveway!
Last edited by 470reasons; 08-31-15 at 03:37 PM.
09-09-15, 06:42 PM
#156
Driver School Candidate
Decided against doing the job myself . I feared breaking the actuator and/or screwing up the timing of the actuator .
Found local inde toyota guy in Santa Fe who did the job and warranties the work $230
He did mention that since there is only 1 rack unlike the 4Runner which has 2 it's a much easier job
let's hope the seal holds!
Found local inde toyota guy in Santa Fe who did the job and warranties the work $230
He did mention that since there is only 1 rack unlike the 4Runner which has 2 it's a much easier job
let's hope the seal holds!
09-09-15, 06:44 PM
#157
Decided against doing the job myself . I feared breaking the actuator and/or screwing up the timing of the actuator .
Found local inde toyota guy in Santa Fe who did the job and warranties the work $230
He did mention that since there is only 1 rack unlike the 4Runner which has 2 it's a much easier job let's hope the seal holds!
Found local inde toyota guy in Santa Fe who did the job and warranties the work $230
He did mention that since there is only 1 rack unlike the 4Runner which has 2 it's a much easier job
let's hope the seal holds!
09-09-15, 07:39 PM
#158
Driver School Candidate
09-20-15, 09:38 AM
#159
A t case can become faulty
A. When there is grinding noises
B. When noticable large metal atached to the magnet
C. Harsh operation
Ect many things can deam them faulty
Also while apart finding scoreing or just something improper
But they are able to jus reseal them usually
A. When there is grinding noises
B. When noticable large metal atached to the magnet
C. Harsh operation
Ect many things can deam them faulty
Also while apart finding scoreing or just something improper
But they are able to jus reseal them usually
10-19-15, 11:48 AM
#160
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Colorado
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Transfer Case Problem
Transfer case on my 03 Gx470 is making grinding noises. The Mechanic put oil in the transfer and it made 0 noises. It is doing it again. I'm not driving it until I have the money to fix. I'm encouraged to see that it may be a SIMPLE fix! I don't even use the 4 wheel Drive at all. Is it hard to simply replace the O ring n make sure everything is ok in the Transfer case?
10-19-15, 12:23 PM
#161
is it leaking oil out of the transfer case, you should do it quick all it takes is a couple drives with no oil and that sound becomes permanent and then the car will just grind instead of going forward. when mine failed anything more than a hair press of the throttle would just grind, if I went slowly the car would move. at that point I had to replace the transfer case with a used one about $1500 for a good unit off a 2005. So you may want to save yours if its still possible. also it doesnt matter if you use 4wd or not, but technically your car is full time all wheel drive, as in its always using 4 wheels.
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Gonzalcy (01-06-17)
01-06-17, 02:45 PM
#162
Driver School Candidate
Transfer case vs actuator assembly leaking on Gx470,2005
Hi,my transfer case is leaking (I see a problem with this model).Lexus wants $2700 to fix the Acctuator assembly! And more for a transfer case. What!!!!! This seems rather expensive. Any ideas?
Rear shocks run $700 each for just the part too .
Rear shocks run $700 each for just the part too .
04-21-17, 10:46 PM
#165
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: sall
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Hi ,
I have gx 470 -04 there is some problem in 4x4 was stuck and the signal flashing also the wheel when I want to turn it L or R
as something was holding wheels, so i want from you to tell whatI should do. thanks
I have gx 470 -04 there is some problem in 4x4 was stuck and the signal flashing also the wheel when I want to turn it L or R
as something was holding wheels, so i want from you to tell whatI should do. thanks