Transmission fluid change
#1
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Transmission fluid change
So I went in the DIY thread to look up how to do this and the link isn't good anymore. it pulls up a blank page and says, "The resource you are looking for has been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable."
I'm sure it's just a matter of drain and fill but I wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything and see what type of fluid everyone recommends.
Thanks in advance.
edit 2002 GS430
I'm sure it's just a matter of drain and fill but I wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything and see what type of fluid everyone recommends.
Thanks in advance.
edit 2002 GS430
#3
There is a filter inside the transmission pan. If you're going to go that route like I did get four quarts of oil. You will have a little bit of trans fluid Left. I used it to flush out the power steering reservoir since its the same fluid.
Last edited by SweetS160; 04-11-14 at 10:19 AM.
#5
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
I don't think the filter is scheduled maintenance on our transmissions. Just drain/fill once or twice a year.
I did, however, just change my filter a couple weeks ago since I have a bunch of power and a modified transmission. It needs it fairly regularly. A few tips:
•*Getting the pan off is a pain because it's glued on from the factory. If you pick up some plastic putty knives from your local home supply store you can use them as wedges to tap in and break the seal around the pan after the bolts are out.
•*Make sure to thoroughly prepare both the transmission side and the pan before you bolt it back together. It will get scuffed from trying to pry the pan off. Just use some 600/800/1000 sand paper to prepare the surface.
•*If the lip on the pan bends, just hammer it back to flat using a wood block
• I used the crappy rubber gasket that came with my filter. Most say not to use it, but it doesn't leak at all because 1) I properly prepared the surfaces 2) I put it out in the sun for about an hour and a half and then laid it flat on a workbench to flatten all the folds out and 3) I soaked it in transmission fluid overnight before reassembly.
•*If you do leave the pan off overnight, you'll probably need about 6qts of transmission fluid to re-fill.
• Clean the magnets that are in the bottom of the trans pan.
•*Don't forget to re-insert the dipstick tube when putting the pan back on.
Overall - it's a really easy job as long as you have enough patience to get the pan un-stuck from the trans.
I did, however, just change my filter a couple weeks ago since I have a bunch of power and a modified transmission. It needs it fairly regularly. A few tips:
•*Getting the pan off is a pain because it's glued on from the factory. If you pick up some plastic putty knives from your local home supply store you can use them as wedges to tap in and break the seal around the pan after the bolts are out.
•*Make sure to thoroughly prepare both the transmission side and the pan before you bolt it back together. It will get scuffed from trying to pry the pan off. Just use some 600/800/1000 sand paper to prepare the surface.
•*If the lip on the pan bends, just hammer it back to flat using a wood block
• I used the crappy rubber gasket that came with my filter. Most say not to use it, but it doesn't leak at all because 1) I properly prepared the surfaces 2) I put it out in the sun for about an hour and a half and then laid it flat on a workbench to flatten all the folds out and 3) I soaked it in transmission fluid overnight before reassembly.
•*If you do leave the pan off overnight, you'll probably need about 6qts of transmission fluid to re-fill.
• Clean the magnets that are in the bottom of the trans pan.
•*Don't forget to re-insert the dipstick tube when putting the pan back on.
Overall - it's a really easy job as long as you have enough patience to get the pan un-stuck from the trans.
The following users liked this post:
n1ck (04-02-18)
#6
I don't think the filter is scheduled maintenance on our transmissions. Just drain/fill once or twice a year.
I did, however, just change my filter a couple weeks ago since I have a bunch of power and a modified transmission. It needs it fairly regularly. A few tips:
•*Getting the pan off is a pain because it's glued on from the factory. If you pick up some plastic putty knives from your local home supply store you can use them as wedges to tap in and break the seal around the pan after the bolts are out.
•*Make sure to thoroughly prepare both the transmission side and the pan before you bolt it back together. It will get scuffed from trying to pry the pan off. Just use some 600/800/1000 sand paper to prepare the surface.
•*If the lip on the pan bends, just hammer it back to flat using a wood block
• I used the crappy rubber gasket that came with my filter. Most say not to use it, but it doesn't leak at all because 1) I properly prepared the surfaces 2) I put it out in the sun for about an hour and a half and then laid it flat on a workbench to flatten all the folds out and 3) I soaked it in transmission fluid overnight before reassembly.
•*If you do leave the pan off overnight, you'll probably need about 6qts of transmission fluid to re-fill.
• Clean the magnets that are in the bottom of the trans pan.
•*Don't forget to re-insert the dipstick tube when putting the pan back on.
Overall - it's a really easy job as long as you have enough patience to get the pan un-stuck from the trans.
I did, however, just change my filter a couple weeks ago since I have a bunch of power and a modified transmission. It needs it fairly regularly. A few tips:
•*Getting the pan off is a pain because it's glued on from the factory. If you pick up some plastic putty knives from your local home supply store you can use them as wedges to tap in and break the seal around the pan after the bolts are out.
•*Make sure to thoroughly prepare both the transmission side and the pan before you bolt it back together. It will get scuffed from trying to pry the pan off. Just use some 600/800/1000 sand paper to prepare the surface.
•*If the lip on the pan bends, just hammer it back to flat using a wood block
• I used the crappy rubber gasket that came with my filter. Most say not to use it, but it doesn't leak at all because 1) I properly prepared the surfaces 2) I put it out in the sun for about an hour and a half and then laid it flat on a workbench to flatten all the folds out and 3) I soaked it in transmission fluid overnight before reassembly.
•*If you do leave the pan off overnight, you'll probably need about 6qts of transmission fluid to re-fill.
• Clean the magnets that are in the bottom of the trans pan.
•*Don't forget to re-insert the dipstick tube when putting the pan back on.
Overall - it's a really easy job as long as you have enough patience to get the pan un-stuck from the trans.
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#8
DIY here
I recommend, in addition to the above:
before doing the cooler line flush, empty and refill the oil pan (via the drain plug, or by removing the pan if cleaning the filter/magnets) - you'll save about 3 or 4 qts of ATF that way.
I recommend, in addition to the above:
before doing the cooler line flush, empty and refill the oil pan (via the drain plug, or by removing the pan if cleaning the filter/magnets) - you'll save about 3 or 4 qts of ATF that way.
#11
Lexus Fanatic
I am probably going to do a transmission fluid change on my GS430. I am pretty sure a flush was done around 50K miles but I lost the paper work on it so I am just going to do a drain and fill. I checked the fluid when cold and it was red to just slightly purplish and clear of any particles, no deep dark red/black thankfully.
I have a couple questions.
Can I put the AMSOIL Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF fluid in with the remaining Toyota trans fluid that is already in it or do I have to do a flush to get rid of all the Toyota IV fluid to put the Amsoil fluid in? If I have to do a flush I will just stick to putting the Toyota Trans fluid in so I can just drain and fill it.
I read there is a crush washer on the drain bolt, does everyone replace that washer with a new one or just re use the old one. If you replace with a new one what is the size of the washer I need to get?
I will use jack stands to get to the drain, how much of the new fluid should I get if the car will be jacked up from the front and drained?
I have not checked the trans fluid in a long time, noticed when I put the dip stick back in it was pretty tough pushing it through since it is a long curved tube, I was almost afraid of bending/kinking the metal.
I have a couple questions.
Can I put the AMSOIL Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF fluid in with the remaining Toyota trans fluid that is already in it or do I have to do a flush to get rid of all the Toyota IV fluid to put the Amsoil fluid in? If I have to do a flush I will just stick to putting the Toyota Trans fluid in so I can just drain and fill it.
I read there is a crush washer on the drain bolt, does everyone replace that washer with a new one or just re use the old one. If you replace with a new one what is the size of the washer I need to get?
I will use jack stands to get to the drain, how much of the new fluid should I get if the car will be jacked up from the front and drained?
I have not checked the trans fluid in a long time, noticed when I put the dip stick back in it was pretty tough pushing it through since it is a long curved tube, I was almost afraid of bending/kinking the metal.
#12
I am probably going to do a transmission fluid change on my GS430. I am pretty sure a flush was done around 50K miles but I lost the paper work on it so I am just going to do a drain and fill. I checked the fluid when cold and it was red to just slightly purplish and clear of any particles, no deep dark red/black thankfully.
I have a couple questions.
Can I put the AMSOIL Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF fluid in with the remaining Toyota trans fluid that is already in it or do I have to do a flush to get rid of all the Toyota IV fluid to put the Amsoil fluid in? If I have to do a flush I will just stick to putting the Toyota Trans fluid in so I can just drain and fill it.
I read there is a crush washer on the drain bolt, does everyone replace that washer with a new one or just re use the old one. If you replace with a new one what is the size of the washer I need to get?
I will use jack stands to get to the drain, how much of the new fluid should I get if the car will be jacked up from the front and drained?
I have not checked the trans fluid in a long time, noticed when I put the dip stick back in it was pretty tough pushing it through since it is a long curved tube, I was almost afraid of bending/kinking the metal.
I have a couple questions.
Can I put the AMSOIL Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF fluid in with the remaining Toyota trans fluid that is already in it or do I have to do a flush to get rid of all the Toyota IV fluid to put the Amsoil fluid in? If I have to do a flush I will just stick to putting the Toyota Trans fluid in so I can just drain and fill it.
I read there is a crush washer on the drain bolt, does everyone replace that washer with a new one or just re use the old one. If you replace with a new one what is the size of the washer I need to get?
I will use jack stands to get to the drain, how much of the new fluid should I get if the car will be jacked up from the front and drained?
I have not checked the trans fluid in a long time, noticed when I put the dip stick back in it was pretty tough pushing it through since it is a long curved tube, I was almost afraid of bending/kinking the metal.
I use Amsoil and do it every oil change (5K).
Sometimes I have to hold the stick right close to where it enters the tube and jab it a few times. You may try flipping the stick over and see if that helps.
I've done this on all my Lexi and you can see I have a lot of miles on them with no tranny problems. I also take care of my Daughter's IS300 with 160K
#13
Lexus Fanatic
I just drain what comes out into quart glass jars. You may get 2 or 3 quarts. Probably 3 with car being jacked up in the front. Then I just reuse the washer 3-4 times. I just make sure it goes back on the same way it came off. I don't let the washer flip over. I only use OEM washer from Toyota.
I use Amsoil and do it every oil change (5K).
Sometimes I have to hold the stick right close to where it enters the tube and jab it a few times. You may try flipping the stick over and see if that helps.
I've done this on all my Lexi and you can see I have a lot of miles on them with no tranny problems. I also take care of my Daughter's IS300 with 160K
I use Amsoil and do it every oil change (5K).
Sometimes I have to hold the stick right close to where it enters the tube and jab it a few times. You may try flipping the stick over and see if that helps.
I've done this on all my Lexi and you can see I have a lot of miles on them with no tranny problems. I also take care of my Daughter's IS300 with 160K
I tried flipping and pushing it closer to the opening, I was just surprised it was so hard to put back in and afraid I could kink the metal or possibly damage something.
#15
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
Hey guys, any of you used this additive in the transmission after you have changed the oil to its transmission? I asked the seller with the information of my car and he said that after changing the oil it need a single bottle. I do not know if someone used this product before and if you really and truly works after you change the oil transmission this product is necessary in our Transmission or not?
eBay item # 151365337348. Lubergard 60902 ATF Protectant Red Synthetic Additive
eBay item # 151365337348. Lubergard 60902 ATF Protectant Red Synthetic Additive