quick brake nub question
#1
quick brake nub question
Whats going on guys. One of my brake pads just started to squeek like a **** so its time to change all corners. My question is would you normal get a "fit kit" and "shim kit" every time you change them out. I figured they would be 10-15 bucks since its just a couple thin pieces of metal but 68 for shims and 40 for the fit? uhmmm wtf??
Also what type of brake pads would you recommend, I'm a fairly aggressive driver when I want. I was thinking OEM or Akebono since i do a lot of daily driving and i dont get to crazy in the gs. Although i heard the Akebono has a pretty low stopping rating.
thanks
Also what type of brake pads would you recommend, I'm a fairly aggressive driver when I want. I was thinking OEM or Akebono since i do a lot of daily driving and i dont get to crazy in the gs. Although i heard the Akebono has a pretty low stopping rating.
thanks
#2
hmm no comments no rage saying GO SEARCH YOU NUBZORSSS..... Anyway I would normally run the old shims and with some anti squeek grease combined with whatever pads i can get my hands on.... but since i decided not to be a hack anymore and just do it right once, i figured id ask what you guys do.
#3
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (14)
Has not even been a day and your complaining about no reply? And yeah there are tons of brake pads threads here too..
Otherwise reusing the shims if they fit the new pads correctly is not really being a hack. It's just a chunk of metal, it's fine and yes use brake grease.
You say your a fairly aggressive driver and then say you don't get crazy..??
I've always had great luck with ebc's in stock braking systems, for most applications they are typically moderately priced and long lasting. The OEM's can be had a decent prices online as well.
Generally when you get into other brands of super aggressive pads the quicker they wear and the more noise they make.
Otherwise reusing the shims if they fit the new pads correctly is not really being a hack. It's just a chunk of metal, it's fine and yes use brake grease.
You say your a fairly aggressive driver and then say you don't get crazy..??
I've always had great luck with ebc's in stock braking systems, for most applications they are typically moderately priced and long lasting. The OEM's can be had a decent prices online as well.
Generally when you get into other brands of super aggressive pads the quicker they wear and the more noise they make.
#4
keep calm broski....lol not complaining, just usually a lot of activity on these boards so figured i would bump it up to get some attention. I searched and found bits and pieces to my questions, so why not make my own thread?
No, I said i was a fairly aggressive driver WHEN I WANT TO BE and that i dont get to crazy, aka race auto cross drift or anything of that nature.
now that we got that out of the way, i appreciate your answer. I was thinking about EBC's but also heard they throw off quite a bit of brake dust which isnt what i want. I know the OEM's have about 40% less braking surface where as OEM replacements such as akebono has the full surface but i also heard that they brake a little worse? can anyone confirm this? maybe i should stop worrying and just pick one and go with it.
No, I said i was a fairly aggressive driver WHEN I WANT TO BE and that i dont get to crazy, aka race auto cross drift or anything of that nature.
now that we got that out of the way, i appreciate your answer. I was thinking about EBC's but also heard they throw off quite a bit of brake dust which isnt what i want. I know the OEM's have about 40% less braking surface where as OEM replacements such as akebono has the full surface but i also heard that they brake a little worse? can anyone confirm this? maybe i should stop worrying and just pick one and go with it.
#5
Honestly, (and I really don't mean to sound like a jerk) if you have to ask, the Autozone/Oreilly/NAPA premium ceramic will not only save you a bunch a money, but don't throw brake dust nearly as bad as other brands I have seen (non-ceramic). Just go with that. I never use shims. They are typically attached to the pad, so I figure it is pad dependent. Just pop them suckers out, grease up the back of the new pads, pop them in, and you're done. I regularly run the Advance Auto Parts ceramic in the front and the semi-metalic on the back. Brake dust is perfectly manageable, braking performance is absolutely fine, and they last SUPER long. Just my .02. Hope this helps.
EDIT: Also, braking surface is LARGELY dependent on the caliper/rotor setup you have. A lot of companies offer chamfering on the edges to reduce noise and long-term wear. The minimal loss in braking surface will not affect you.
EDIT: Also, braking surface is LARGELY dependent on the caliper/rotor setup you have. A lot of companies offer chamfering on the edges to reduce noise and long-term wear. The minimal loss in braking surface will not affect you.
#6
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Here's my .02 -
1. If you're using OEM or OEM type rotors, ALWAYS stick with OEM pads. Why? You need to use the brake fit kit/shim kit on the front brakes. The shim kit is used to help the pad stay in the rotor a specific way instead of having the pad shift when going forward, reverse, etc. If you use aftermarket pads, the likelyhood of them having a padded shim on the pad itself is guaranteed and this is not supposed to be there. Remember, OEM parts are made to work like OEM. Also, stay away from metallic pads.
2. When changing your pads, its a good idea to run to a machine/auto shop and get your rotors cut. It's about $10-15 per side to cut, and about $40 for a replacement oem style rotor. Your choice.
3. You DO NOT need to get new brake fit clips and springs when you change pads everytime, but you DO need to use them. Unless your clips are extremely deformed -- don't buy new ones.
1. If you're using OEM or OEM type rotors, ALWAYS stick with OEM pads. Why? You need to use the brake fit kit/shim kit on the front brakes. The shim kit is used to help the pad stay in the rotor a specific way instead of having the pad shift when going forward, reverse, etc. If you use aftermarket pads, the likelyhood of them having a padded shim on the pad itself is guaranteed and this is not supposed to be there. Remember, OEM parts are made to work like OEM. Also, stay away from metallic pads.
2. When changing your pads, its a good idea to run to a machine/auto shop and get your rotors cut. It's about $10-15 per side to cut, and about $40 for a replacement oem style rotor. Your choice.
3. You DO NOT need to get new brake fit clips and springs when you change pads everytime, but you DO need to use them. Unless your clips are extremely deformed -- don't buy new ones.
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