Temperature Gauge not working- from GForce Chip
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Temperature Gauge not working- from GForce Chip
I have a GS430 2004 and made the mistake of hooking up this GFORCE performance chip I got for christmas.
I asked them to send me a wire digram to make sure I connected the wire clips to the right two wires. They did so I did what they instructed. The moment I started the car I could tell it was running rough... I got the check engine light and VSC lights on also so I turned off the car and disconnected the chip.
The chip clips into the AIT wires and send a false reading to the computer to make it think it in a cold environment and adjusts for it. I did not know any of this until after as I've been trying to fix the issues it has caused.
AutoZone gave me 3 codes PO113 (IAT), PO103 ( mass air flow), and PO118 (Engine coolant temperature (ECT)),
I replaced the Meter Sub assy, (part # 22204-15010 at $283.63) This helped the car to run a little better. It was fried. I could see where the old one burned up. But my temp gauge still was not working so I replaced the Water sensor on the engine( part #89422-30030 at $96.75). After researching it seemed that this controls the gauge and has to do with the fuel mix ratio. But It didn't work... Temp gauge is still not working and the car even though it is running better than it was, when i hit the gas it starts to misfire and the car shakes... I'm $400 into this and still haven't got the car back to normal.
Does anybody have any other ideas of what could be causing the problem? I'm worried it may have fried something on the mother board and that could get really expensive!
If anyone has any ideas before I have to take it in and have the motherboard checked I love to hear them...
HELP!!!
P.S.
WARNING TO ALL ABOUT BUYING THIS GFORCE brand performance chip! STAY AS FAR AWAY AS YOU CAN!!!!! This $75 dollar pice of junk is costing me a fortune...
I asked them to send me a wire digram to make sure I connected the wire clips to the right two wires. They did so I did what they instructed. The moment I started the car I could tell it was running rough... I got the check engine light and VSC lights on also so I turned off the car and disconnected the chip.
The chip clips into the AIT wires and send a false reading to the computer to make it think it in a cold environment and adjusts for it. I did not know any of this until after as I've been trying to fix the issues it has caused.
AutoZone gave me 3 codes PO113 (IAT), PO103 ( mass air flow), and PO118 (Engine coolant temperature (ECT)),
I replaced the Meter Sub assy, (part # 22204-15010 at $283.63) This helped the car to run a little better. It was fried. I could see where the old one burned up. But my temp gauge still was not working so I replaced the Water sensor on the engine( part #89422-30030 at $96.75). After researching it seemed that this controls the gauge and has to do with the fuel mix ratio. But It didn't work... Temp gauge is still not working and the car even though it is running better than it was, when i hit the gas it starts to misfire and the car shakes... I'm $400 into this and still haven't got the car back to normal.
Does anybody have any other ideas of what could be causing the problem? I'm worried it may have fried something on the mother board and that could get really expensive!
If anyone has any ideas before I have to take it in and have the motherboard checked I love to hear them...
HELP!!!
P.S.
WARNING TO ALL ABOUT BUYING THIS GFORCE brand performance chip! STAY AS FAR AWAY AS YOU CAN!!!!! This $75 dollar pice of junk is costing me a fortune...
#3
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What do you mean? Are you referring to the Gforce Chip as the add on part? If so the car was running perfect before I connected it. I didn't cut any wires.
They supply T-Tap connectors that you crimp into the 2 wires that designated in the wire digram they e-mailed me. They highlighted the two in yellow. It was the Brown wire (E2) and Pink/Blue wire (THA). On the 5 wires that clip into the Mass airflow meter.
They said "wiring polarity doesn't matter because this unit is programmed to run either way". You just Crimp the T-Tap connectors into the two wire and plug the gforce chip re-connect clip to MAF/IAT connector and start the car. I did all that and this is where I'm at now.
So are you saying I need to replace the wire harness that connects to the MAF/IAT sensor? If so how does that help the temperature gauge issue?
They supply T-Tap connectors that you crimp into the 2 wires that designated in the wire digram they e-mailed me. They highlighted the two in yellow. It was the Brown wire (E2) and Pink/Blue wire (THA). On the 5 wires that clip into the Mass airflow meter.
They said "wiring polarity doesn't matter because this unit is programmed to run either way". You just Crimp the T-Tap connectors into the two wire and plug the gforce chip re-connect clip to MAF/IAT connector and start the car. I did all that and this is where I'm at now.
So are you saying I need to replace the wire harness that connects to the MAF/IAT sensor? If so how does that help the temperature gauge issue?
#4
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Do you have any pics of the chip and the installation diagram? I would be interested to see what they sent you. And them saying it wouldn't matter if you hooked it up backwards, I'm not too sure about that one? But I suppose Placebo power gains could still be effective for a user even if it was backwards, wireless, or just plain magic. (unless there cars gets f'd up instead )
But yeah a two wire chip that adds 60hp / gains 7mpg / lowers emissions 40% for only $70...
Sorry to see this product possibly has damaged your car. You should not have to replace your wiring harness if you only t-tapped them. I think GS4_Fiend meant there was a short caused to those connections through the chip.
It also seems weird that you only need to tap the feeds, to change anything you typically need to cut the sensor feeds and send them into the chip so that it can skew the reading and then send the new reading out of the chip to the ecu.
But yeah a two wire chip that adds 60hp / gains 7mpg / lowers emissions 40% for only $70...
Sorry to see this product possibly has damaged your car. You should not have to replace your wiring harness if you only t-tapped them. I think GS4_Fiend meant there was a short caused to those connections through the chip.
It also seems weird that you only need to tap the feeds, to change anything you typically need to cut the sensor feeds and send them into the chip so that it can skew the reading and then send the new reading out of the chip to the ecu.
Last edited by 99 GS3; 12-31-11 at 10:59 AM.
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Don't know if the pics are showing up so here are the links:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608248471/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608225929/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608226107/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608248471/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608225929/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608226107/
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I just got this car a month ago. I had a 2001 GS430 for 8 years and someone hit me and totaled it.
I got this one and decided to create my dream version. I had to replace the sub woofer myself and then I added the chrome grill, rims, fog lights, chrome truck lid trim. I've also ordered a new all cherrywood gear shifter ****, new headlight housings, led running lights and side mirrors with the blinkers built in. My girlfriend saw me looking at this gforce chip and bought it for me for christmas.
It's ended my mods for now because of the cost to get it running right again is killing me...
Her are a few pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608301369/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608358329/
I got this one and decided to create my dream version. I had to replace the sub woofer myself and then I added the chrome grill, rims, fog lights, chrome truck lid trim. I've also ordered a new all cherrywood gear shifter ****, new headlight housings, led running lights and side mirrors with the blinkers built in. My girlfriend saw me looking at this gforce chip and bought it for me for christmas.
It's ended my mods for now because of the cost to get it running right again is killing me...
Her are a few pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608301369/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64809995@N08/6608358329/
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#8
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If those are the only wires you messed with, it shouldn't cause the coolant temp gauge to not work. Try running a OBD2 code scanner to see whats up.
BTW: That resistor you bought that tricks the ecu is actually pretty useless. If anything, it will lower your power. Right now, in TX it's pretty cold outside anyways so there's really not much tricking going on. However when it gets hot outside the and the engine computer still thinks it's cold, it's going to dump extra fuel into the cylinders. Running extra rich is actually going to be counterproductive to making power. It can also foul out your plugs and possibly cause a failure of the catalytic converters if the fuel mix is too rich.
BTW: That resistor you bought that tricks the ecu is actually pretty useless. If anything, it will lower your power. Right now, in TX it's pretty cold outside anyways so there's really not much tricking going on. However when it gets hot outside the and the engine computer still thinks it's cold, it's going to dump extra fuel into the cylinders. Running extra rich is actually going to be counterproductive to making power. It can also foul out your plugs and possibly cause a failure of the catalytic converters if the fuel mix is too rich.
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Like i mentioned before- AutoZone gave me 3 codes PO113 (IAT), PO103 ( mass air flow), and PO118 (Engine coolant temperature (ECT)),
Anyone have any ideas about the temperature gauge?
Anyone have any ideas about the temperature gauge?
#11
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I took the car into the shop and it ended up being the mother board after all. The G-Force chip fried it and it cost $1000 to get repaired... I did everything as they told me and my mechanic verified that I did tap into the two wires they tell you to... so just a warning this could happen to you also.
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Another heads up to anyone considering that piece of junk GFORCE CHIP. They promise a full 100% refund if your not satisfied, but what you don't know is that buried in the small fine print in the long terms and conditions ( if you were to bother reading them) They let you know that they charge a 25% restocking fee! So you pay 69.00 + shipping = $74.95. Then you have to pay to ship it back ($5.95 ) so your $80+ into this mess. This is after the damage to my car so add $990.00 to fix it. So now I'm at $1,070.90 and all they refunded me was $51.75 when I was expecting the $69.00 back. They just keep bending you over and filling their pockets at every turn. No wonder they offer 100% money back guarantee. They make $17.25 off every return as well.
WARNING, WARNING, WARNING --- DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THESE PEOPLE!!!!!!!!
WARNING, WARNING, WARNING --- DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THESE PEOPLE!!!!!!!!
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