VSC/ABS/VSC OFF...Speed Sensor
#1
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VSC/ABS/VSC OFF...Speed Sensor
Hello everyone,
I started this topic a while ago and thanx a lot for all of your input everyone....as mentioned in my previous thread in my 2000 GS400 the VSC?ABS/VSC OFF lights in the das came on and then went away after a while but monday evening the lights came back on again and they are still on so i took the car to a mechanic...he got the code of the computer and as per the code the Front Right Side Brake Sensor FAILED/Not Working...I went for a test drive with him and he had the computer thing installed on the car while driving all the brake sensors were giving the readings except for the Front Right Side Brake Sensor...but when he took out the sensor and did the reading the sensor reading were fine mechanic told me that the SPECS of the reading are fine and now he is not sure what is keeping the lights on he even tried to decode them or reset and make them go away or wtever you call it but it wasnt working.....mechanic told me he needs more time for DIAGNOSIS.....Any idea anyone? Any input please that will help....
Please & Thanx......
I started this topic a while ago and thanx a lot for all of your input everyone....as mentioned in my previous thread in my 2000 GS400 the VSC?ABS/VSC OFF lights in the das came on and then went away after a while but monday evening the lights came back on again and they are still on so i took the car to a mechanic...he got the code of the computer and as per the code the Front Right Side Brake Sensor FAILED/Not Working...I went for a test drive with him and he had the computer thing installed on the car while driving all the brake sensors were giving the readings except for the Front Right Side Brake Sensor...but when he took out the sensor and did the reading the sensor reading were fine mechanic told me that the SPECS of the reading are fine and now he is not sure what is keeping the lights on he even tried to decode them or reset and make them go away or wtever you call it but it wasnt working.....mechanic told me he needs more time for DIAGNOSIS.....Any idea anyone? Any input please that will help....
Please & Thanx......
#2
Rookie
iTrader: (15)
If you have a multimeter at home, measure the resistance of the speed sensor. The connector is located behind the fender liner. Just pull the plug out and read the resistance. It should be 1.4k-1.8k Ohms. If not, then it's broken. If it falls within the range, then the sensor is good and the problem is somewhere else.
If your sensor is good, then you can try to reset the code manually by opening up your hood and open the DIAGNOSTIC cap. To reset:
-Take a piece of wire and jump the "Tc" to the "E1" terminal. Then pull out the metal short fuse.
-Turn the ignition to ON (without turning on the engine)
-Step on the brakes at least 8 times within 5 seconds and the code should be reset.
-Turn off the ignition and pull out the jump wire
-Put back the short fuse
BTW for those who are wondering, resetting the ECU does NOT clear the code stored in the DTC.
If your sensor is good, then you can try to reset the code manually by opening up your hood and open the DIAGNOSTIC cap. To reset:
-Take a piece of wire and jump the "Tc" to the "E1" terminal. Then pull out the metal short fuse.
-Turn the ignition to ON (without turning on the engine)
-Step on the brakes at least 8 times within 5 seconds and the code should be reset.
-Turn off the ignition and pull out the jump wire
-Put back the short fuse
BTW for those who are wondering, resetting the ECU does NOT clear the code stored in the DTC.
Last edited by GSteg; 12-23-07 at 01:39 PM.
#3
I had a similar problem with my GS. Is your car lowered? I did not position the sensor on the shock with enough slack so when the car was sitting on the ground the sensor was being pulled. But when the car was raised, I could not see the problem. I just replaced the sensor and adjusted the bracket that held the sensor to the shock down.
#5
If you have a multimeter at home, measure the resistance of the speed sensor. The connector is located behind the fender liner. Just pull the plug out and read the resistance. It should be 1.4k-1.8k Ohms. If not, then it's broken. If it falls within the range, then the sensor is good and the problem is somewhere else.
If your sensor is good, then you can try to reset the code manually by opening up your hood and open the DIAGNOSTIC cap. To reset:
-Take a piece of wire and jump the "Tc" to the "E1" terminal. Then pull out the metal short fuse.
-Turn the ignition to ON (without turning on the engine)
-Step on the brakes at least 8 times within 5 seconds and the code should be reset.
-Turn off the ignition and pull out the jump wire
-Put back the short fuse
BTW for those who are wondering, resetting the ECU does NOT clear the code stored in the DTC.
If your sensor is good, then you can try to reset the code manually by opening up your hood and open the DIAGNOSTIC cap. To reset:
-Take a piece of wire and jump the "Tc" to the "E1" terminal. Then pull out the metal short fuse.
-Turn the ignition to ON (without turning on the engine)
-Step on the brakes at least 8 times within 5 seconds and the code should be reset.
-Turn off the ignition and pull out the jump wire
-Put back the short fuse
BTW for those who are wondering, resetting the ECU does NOT clear the code stored in the DTC.
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