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After seeing multiple DIY's and doing my research i Finnaly decided to do my ball joints. This was a challege to me. It did take me a while but patience was key. So I accidently moved the alignment bolt on the tie rod but my car is at the allienmnet shop as we speak. That should fix it right? Another problem I encountered was tightening the castle nut on the ball joint. I Couldent get it to 115 lb/ft I probally got it to like 100. It's really really tight just not to spec will this be a problem for me? And last the cotter pins I folded them in an odd way. I'll post a pic. I just need to know if it's acceptable. Overall it was a good excperience. I found this link helpful http://carandwriter.blogspot.com/201...lower.html?m=1
It completed the helpful diy on here. Thank you club lexus.
As for the cotter pin on the nut. Dude, not sure where you got 115 ft/lb for the torque, but its supposed to be 64, thats WAY over tightened, which also explains why the cotter pin isnt installed right.
This is how a cotter pin should look like when installed, it needs to be in the grooves of the nut, thus the reason for the ridges on on the head of the nut:
back off the castle nut and you have to press the rod out and start over in order for the nut to align with the hole. I'm not even sure how the bolt got that far down, you MAY have destroyed the tie rod joint and quite possibly the threads. When you remove it, see if it's stiff or if it moves freely, if its not stiff, its probably done for. On second glance of the picture, the rubber looks smashed, so yea it may be damaged.
EDIT: I'd replace the tie rod end if I were you regardless. In addition to the possibly damaged joint, a lot of stress has been put on the bolt from the torque and just may snap while driving. Its a inexpensive and easy fix and worth it to be safe as well as to save the destruction of your fender if it were to break.
As for the cotter pin on the nut. Dude, not sure where you got 115 ft/lb for the torque, but its supposed to be 64, thats WAY over tightened, which also explains why the cotter pin isnt installed right.
This is how a cotter pin should look like when installed, it needs to be in the grooves of the nut, thus the reason for the ridges on on the head of the nut:
back off the castle nut and you have to press the rod out and start over in order for the nut to align with the hole. I'm not even sure how the bolt got that far down, you MAY have destroyed the tie rod joint and quite possibly the threads. When you remove it, see if it's stiff or if it moves freely, if its not stiff, its probably done for. On second glance of the picture, the rubber looks smashed, so yea it may be damaged.
EDIT: I'd replace the tie rod end if I were you regardless. In addition to the possibly damaged joint, a lot of stress has been put on the bolt from the torque and just may snap while driving. Its a inexpensive and easy fix and worth it to be safe as well as to save the destruction of your fender if it were to break.
Its 64 for the tierod end castle nut. I overtouqued it and I realized my mistake so I retourqued it and trust me it dosemt look like that anymore lol. Its ill have to redo the castle nut then. But yea for the ball joints castle nut I belive it is 112-120 it wouldent make sense to be that loose.
Yea like said above ^^, torque wrench not much needed with a cotter pin. When I do cotters, I usually tighten all the way down with a wrench until the hole matches up with the space in the nut, that usually is pretty tight and close to its torque spec
01-13-15, 10:50 AM
Couple of questions on front end
