Timing Belt Replacement Question- GS300
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Timing Belt Replacement Question- GS300
I just purchased an '03 with 122K mi. and no service records so I'm planning on doing the timing belt tomorrow. I've done quite a few T-belts on other cars, but never on a Lex/Toy VVT 6 banger.
I've read everything I can find here including the service manual section on T-belt replacement and I don't understand why camshaft pulley removal is called for. I've also seen few posts on here where it appears they were not removed; although, the service manual indicates they should be (I am not doing cam seals).
Can someone who has done this job give me some advice? I understand how the intake pulley works to vary timing, but it seems that if the timing marks are all set correctly prior to belt removal and installation, and you don't move the pulleys in the process, then you shouldn't have to remove them. Is this not possible with intake pulley? Am I missing something here, or is there a workaround that no one has posted?
I've read everything I can find here including the service manual section on T-belt replacement and I don't understand why camshaft pulley removal is called for. I've also seen few posts on here where it appears they were not removed; although, the service manual indicates they should be (I am not doing cam seals).
Can someone who has done this job give me some advice? I understand how the intake pulley works to vary timing, but it seems that if the timing marks are all set correctly prior to belt removal and installation, and you don't move the pulleys in the process, then you shouldn't have to remove them. Is this not possible with intake pulley? Am I missing something here, or is there a workaround that no one has posted?
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Well, I guess no one here who has done a T-belt is able, or willing, to answer my question regarding the factory manual timing belt removal/installation instructions which, IMHO, are pretty much retarded.
I have torn everything down and am reasembliing tomorrow. I will not be removing the camshaft pullies as per the manual. I agree with previous posts that the crankshaft pulley bolt is a total ******! I bought the Schley tool (definitely gotta have it) and began by shearing the end off of a 3/4-1/2 adapter that I was using on my Chinese-made breaker bar. I then used two 5 ft pieces of 1" steel pipe + a new breaker bar and put A LOT of force before the bolt finally broke free. Unbelievable!
Noticed quite a bit of crystalline coolant residue on the block that had been coming from the H20 pump weep tube. Wasn't planning on replacing that, but looks like I need to. Hopefully back on the road tomorrow!
I have torn everything down and am reasembliing tomorrow. I will not be removing the camshaft pullies as per the manual. I agree with previous posts that the crankshaft pulley bolt is a total ******! I bought the Schley tool (definitely gotta have it) and began by shearing the end off of a 3/4-1/2 adapter that I was using on my Chinese-made breaker bar. I then used two 5 ft pieces of 1" steel pipe + a new breaker bar and put A LOT of force before the bolt finally broke free. Unbelievable!
Noticed quite a bit of crystalline coolant residue on the block that had been coming from the H20 pump weep tube. Wasn't planning on replacing that, but looks like I need to. Hopefully back on the road tomorrow!
#3
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Good thing you caught the water pump while you're in there.
Well, I guess no one here who has done a T-belt is able, or willing, to answer my question regarding the factory manual timing belt removal/installation instructions which, IMHO, are pretty much retarded.
I have torn everything down and am reasembliing tomorrow. I will not be removing the camshaft pullies as per the manual. I agree with previous posts that the crankshaft pulley bolt is a total ******! I bought the Schley tool (definitely gotta have it) and began by shearing the end off of a 3/4-1/2 adapter that I was using on my Chinese-made breaker bar. I then used two 5 ft pieces of 1" steel pipe + a new breaker bar and put A LOT of force before the bolt finally broke free. Unbelievable!
Noticed quite a bit of crystalline coolant residue on the block that had been coming from the H20 pump weep tube. Wasn't planning on replacing that, but looks like I need to. Hopefully back on the road tomorrow!
I have torn everything down and am reasembliing tomorrow. I will not be removing the camshaft pullies as per the manual. I agree with previous posts that the crankshaft pulley bolt is a total ******! I bought the Schley tool (definitely gotta have it) and began by shearing the end off of a 3/4-1/2 adapter that I was using on my Chinese-made breaker bar. I then used two 5 ft pieces of 1" steel pipe + a new breaker bar and put A LOT of force before the bolt finally broke free. Unbelievable!
Noticed quite a bit of crystalline coolant residue on the block that had been coming from the H20 pump weep tube. Wasn't planning on replacing that, but looks like I need to. Hopefully back on the road tomorrow!
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