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Anybody have "TIMKEN" wheel bearings?

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Old 01-05-08, 08:22 AM   #16
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Coco, I live within minutes of Timken headquarters as well as their R&D center and they do produce quality bearings, steels, etc. They have (in the last 5-10 years) started outsourcing some of the manufacturing. I have actually done some engineering projects in the steel plants. I would use them myself. And that brings me to my question. Were you able to replace the hubs without a press? I was looking at buying these hubs myself but wasn't sure if I could get the hub out. I talked to a corvette guy and he said it looked similar to the corvette setup and was able just to unbolt the hub. If you could let me know I would greatly appreciate it.


Thanks!
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Old 01-05-08, 03:45 PM   #17
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I agree with your thinking but, it is way off base. Unfortunately the bearing is pressed into the assembly that hooks up to the upper A-arm assembly. It is not just a HUB. If this is still a topic Monday I will show on the parts list that it is an assembly not a bolt in hub with a pressed in bearing like the pic that was posted above. I wish that we had a bolt in assembly like FORD and Chevy uses but, we don't we drive Toyota's thank god.

I will post a pic just for the sake of posting a pic. later not on this PC This was when I did my ball-joints. so it is somewhat relevant.

I have a tundra as well and it is the same design.

BP
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Old 01-05-08, 03:59 PM   #18
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BTW Timken makes a great bearing.

BP
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Old 02-28-08, 12:26 PM   #19
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Has anybody got any first hand knowledge with these hubs?
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Old 02-28-08, 12:55 PM   #20
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I have experience with the timken replacment hubs on other cars. They need the wheel flange hub pressed into the bearing face, and that assembly needs some "assistance" fitting into the knuckle. Its easy when you have a press :-)
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Old 02-28-08, 04:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coco-bun View Post
Then I thought about just buying a hub assembly since I could just swap that myself and I found a company called "Timken" that makes
Timken's a global bearing company. their bearings go in everything from cars, manufacturing equipment, planes. can't go wrong with their products.
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Old 02-28-08, 08:48 PM   #22
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Timken is a quality product...Its cool to find a use for the press I bought to install the Daizen bushings...hehe
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Old 02-28-08, 09:34 PM   #23
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Okay, I've also been searching the forums for wheel bearings. I'm reading that you can just buy the bearings seperately (front & rear) and have them pressed in or buy the complete hub assembly with the bearings already pressed in. Is it one or the other or both? Which is more cost effective?
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Old 02-29-08, 04:47 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Dslexic View Post
Okay, I've also been searching the forums for wheel bearings. I'm reading that you can just buy the bearings seperately (front & rear) and have them pressed in or buy the complete hub assembly with the bearings already pressed in. Is it one or the other or both? Which is more cost effective?
The steering knuckle.. which is EXPENSIVE is the housing for the bearing.. I do not think you can buy it with the hub and bearing assembly all ready together.

You will need about a 25 ton press to get the bearing out / in. You will need the correct fixtures to support the inner race otherwise your new bearing will be trash.

The kicker will be getting the 200ft-lbs of torque to remove and re-tighten the HUB NUT. If you have the correct socket.

See the following pics of a manual hub conversion on tundrasolutions.com

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photo...y.php/cat/1466

This is not a shade tree job.. plus it is your wheel your talking about.


There are a couple of threads on the manual hub replacement out there for the trucks. Our bearing steering knuckle assembly is close to what they put on them.

Take a look at these guys they look like a couple monkeys with a football.

Once again.. this is not a shade tree job.

http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamo.../orsmanhub.htm

Sorry to compare this with a truck but, it is similar.

BP
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Old 02-29-08, 06:40 AM   #25
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Ouch! Thats gonna be a pocket burner!
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Old 02-29-08, 07:48 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD911 View Post
I agree with your thinking but, it is way off base. Unfortunately the bearing is pressed into the assembly that hooks up to the upper A-arm assembly. It is not just a HUB. If this is still a topic Monday I will show on the parts list that it is an assembly not a bolt in hub with a pressed in bearing like the pic that was posted above. I wish that we had a bolt in assembly like FORD and Chevy uses but, we don't we drive Toyota's thank god.

I will post a pic just for the sake of posting a pic. later not on this PC This was when I did my ball-joints. so it is somewhat relevant.

I have a tundra as well and it is the same design.

BP
and my lazy butt still hasn't fixed this.
and dang it on the press...I think I'll just it apart and take the whole assembly to a shop and have them put the bearings in and put it back in myself.
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Old 02-29-08, 07:49 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooseman View Post
Coco, I live within minutes of Timken headquarters as well as their R&D center and they do produce quality bearings, steels, etc. They have (in the last 5-10 years) started outsourcing some of the manufacturing. I have actually done some engineering projects in the steel plants. I would use them myself. And that brings me to my question. Were you able to replace the hubs without a press? I was looking at buying these hubs myself but wasn't sure if I could get the hub out. I talked to a corvette guy and he said it looked similar to the corvette setup and was able just to unbolt the hub. If you could let me know I would greatly appreciate it.


Thanks!
thanks for the info! no i haven't done this yet...but I really need to.
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Old 02-29-08, 07:54 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD911 View Post
...
You will need about a 25 ton press to get the bearing out / in. You will need the correct fixtures to support the inner race otherwise your new bearing will be trash.

The kicker will be getting the 200ft-lbs of torque to remove and re-tighten the HUB NUT. If you have the correct socket...
This is not a shade tree job.. plus it is your wheel your talking about...



BP
If you have the right tools its a moderate job. I suppose I wouldnt exactly call myself a shadetree since I have all those tools and then some, and I fabricate alot of parts myself.
Ive done a bunch of sealed bearing replacments with a 12ton HF press. The hub nut is easy to remove. Take a center punch, pop out the dimple. Throw another punch in the slots of the rotor to hold it from moving. Grab the hub nut socket with breaker bar, remove nut and viola. perhaps im making it sound too simple, and I certainly dont want people out there attempting this who have no buisness doing an oil change...

EDIT: OMFG about the monkey link. Thats just dangerous and stupid looking. Talk about broken/bent wheel studs
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Old 02-29-08, 08:10 AM   #29
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[QUOTE=EDIT: OMFG about the monkey link. Thats just dangerous and stupid looking. Talk about broken/bent wheel studs[/QUOTE]

If you go back and read the instructions from Toyota they say to hold the studs with lugnuts on them in a vice.

BP
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Old 02-29-08, 08:31 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by twojayzee View Post
If you have the right tools its a moderate job. I suppose I wouldnt exactly call myself a shadetree since I have all those tools and then some, and I fabricate alot of parts myself.
Ive done a bunch of sealed bearing replacments with a 12ton HF press. The hub nut is easy to remove. Take a center punch, pop out the dimple. Throw another punch in the slots of the rotor to hold it from moving. Grab the hub nut socket with breaker bar, remove nut and viola. perhaps im making it sound too simple, and I certainly dont want people out there attempting this who have no buisness doing an oil change...

EDIT: OMFG about the monkey link. Thats just dangerous and stupid looking. Talk about broken/bent wheel studs
if you own a 12ton press and can fab things up, i'd say you're pretty darn handy
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Old 02-29-08, 08:31 AM
 
 
 
 
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