Go Back   Club Lexus Forums > Lexus Model Forums > GS Models > GS - Second Generation
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?

Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-09-13, 05:53 PM   #1006
RJlexGS
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: TN
Posts: 4
Default

Thanks Key Keeper. I will get the part numbers from this thread and get to work.

Thank you.
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Club Lexus!
RJlexGS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-13, 06:46 PM   #1007
mjreisbord
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: tx
Posts: 3
Default

i have a 2001 lexus ls430, all of a sudden the remote and drivers side lock release will not unlock the drivers side rear door.

thanks, mark
mjreisbord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-13, 01:18 AM   #1008
sLOWaristo
Pole Position
Trader Score: (4)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 227
@gs4drty
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RJlexGS View Post
Hey guys in need of some help please. My door locks aren't responding to the key fob or the power lock button but you can hear the actuator kicking when you hit the button or the fob. They actually will kick once and then again in about two seconds but they won't lock or unlock. Should I replace the actuators or is there another issue? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

RJLexGS
Thissssss... damn.. guess I have another project to do.. any idea how much to do all four.. might as well replace all while im at it
sLOWaristo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-13, 10:51 AM   #1009
bdhtx
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: tx
Posts: 3
Default

Based on my limited experience, you probably have at least one that is bad, and I would guess the driver door.

A few more notes.
1. The info in this thread is great. If you have an issue or question, search this thread.
2. Did a '99 GS 300, all 4 doors, in under 3 hours. Second car is the easiest.
3. Left all windows up and did not remove front speakers, just the window track closest to the actuators.
4. Rear door trick is to find that "tab" that will allow you to remove the unit. Do NOT try and take the rear handles out as you do not need to.
5. Hardest part has been cracking open the old units without destroying plastic.
6. Be careful with the lock cables. The barrel shape can crack off.
bdhtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-13, 12:23 PM   #1010
KeyKeeper
Driver
Trader Score: (0)
 
KeyKeeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 167
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdhtx View Post
Based on my limited experience, you probably have at least one that is bad, and I would guess the driver door.

A few more notes.
1. The info in this thread is great. If you have an issue or question, search this thread.
2. Did a '99 GS 300, all 4 doors, in under 3 hours. Second car is the easiest.
3. Left all windows up and did not remove front speakers, just the window track closest to the actuators.
4. Rear door trick is to find that "tab" that will allow you to remove the unit. Do NOT try and take the rear handles out as you do not need to.
5. Hardest part has been cracking open the old units without destroying plastic.
6. Be careful with the lock cables. The barrel shape can crack off.
I did ChrisWinnn's actuators this weekend. Took about 3.5hrs in the texas heat. Hardest part is getting the rear actuators out of the doors. Trick is to take a long screwdriver or use your hand/finger if you can fit it in the door to push down the lever that engages the door handles. You DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE WINDOWS OR REAR DOOR HANDLES.
KeyKeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-13, 01:16 PM   #1011
wbmx1981
Lead Lap
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South Austin, Texas
Posts: 466
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KeyKeeper View Post
I did ChrisWinnn's actuators this weekend. Took about 3.5hrs in the texas heat. Hardest part is getting the rear actuators out of the doors. Trick is to take a long screwdriver or use your hand/finger if you can fit it in the door to push down the lever that engages the door handles. You DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE WINDOWS OR REAR DOOR HANDLES.
What part of texas?
wbmx1981 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-13, 03:21 PM   #1012
KeyKeeper
Driver
Trader Score: (0)
 
KeyKeeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 167
Default

Jarrell, just north of Georgetown.
KeyKeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-13, 03:27 PM   #1013
KeyKeeper
Driver
Trader Score: (0)
 
KeyKeeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 167
Default

Oh, and one other note....DISCONNECT THE FREAKIN BATTERY!!!! If you dont the window will try to roll itself down when you stick the actuator back into the door (smaller rod gets pushed down and the computer thinks you have inserted the key and held to unlock). You could wait till you get it all mounted up before plugging it in but its a total pain in the *ss this way. The small plug is nearly impossible to get to once the actuator is in the door. Not to mention, the alarm/horn will go off when you plug it in anyways making your neighbors really happy with you
KeyKeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-13, 09:53 AM   #1014
MNchiver
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: MN
Posts: 6
Default

For an old post, this is still priceless... I had no idea what I was doing going into this and I was able to replace my actuator out of the front pass side in a couple hours... it also had a broken plastic piece that hooked to the actual door lock but thanks to members advice, a simple paperclip wrapped around it now leaves the door operating like new! Thank you all!!!
MNchiver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-13, 05:47 PM   #1015
PETERPAN20
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 6
Default Heat up the edges to melt the glue

The white plastic clam shell motor housing is glued together.

Use a hair dryer on HOT. Heat a long line along the long straight edge. That would melt the glue so you can pry open a spot easily with a knife blade.

Repeat heating a few other spots until open the shell.

That would preven breaking the plastic shell.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lexuseng View Post
I just completed the rear door actuator motor replacement. Really kudo's for all that submitted as they learned. The rear door panel was really easy to remove, didn't break any of the snaps that I have done in the past. After removing the screws to remove the actuator, lift the door handle from the outside to ease the assembly out. The actual motor casing is a sealed unit and is easy to break. The 2 case halves are tongue and groove and bonded together. I used a utility knife between the case halves to cut through the tongue and groove. If you try to pry before you have cut through, you will only end up breaking the case. Give yourself 15 minutes to do the job, be careful not to cut yourself and you can get the case apart in 2 pieces. Makes it easier to glue back together. I thought of using a Dremel tool but after seeing how much grease is inside the unit, all the dust/debris from a Dremel tool would probably muck up the works. I did put a piece of foam tape on the side opposite the electrical contacts to give it more contact force (the original motor also had some foam tape on it). Oh yeah, the coupling is hard to get off but do it just like the picture. I bent a few nails (blunt them first). Took about 3 hours including a trip to the local hardware store for a Torx 30 bit so that plus the $1 motor saved me over $200!
PETERPAN20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-13, 05:49 PM   #1016
PETERPAN20
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 6
Default

Since this Mabuchi motor is used in RC cars, I suspect you can buy the flat shaft adapter at hobby shops that sell RC cars and accessories.

While you are there, the shop would liek have tool to remove the old adapter from the shaft.
PETERPAN20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-13, 05:51 PM   #1017
PETERPAN20
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 6
Default heat up the edges to melt the glue

The pry it out with a sharp knife or flat-head screw driver.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SDGSPW View Post
The easiest way to crack open the housing is by using a safety blade and a small hammer (like a model hammer). Line the blade up straight between the two halves of the housing and slightly tap until the blade goes in. Go all around the housing until you can separate the two halves. Any other way is too much of a pain to do.
PETERPAN20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-13, 11:24 AM   #1018
tn96dc
Pole Position
Trader Score: (7)
 
tn96dc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 282
Default

anyone have an updated parts list?
__________________
2002 GS300
tn96dc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-13, 06:06 PM   #1019
abounly
Lexus Champion
Trader Score: (26)
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: ca
Posts: 4,263
Default

So i'm confused AF

So i switched the actuator passenger front and pass rear. As I hooked up the front unit (that the actuator is in) the car wont lock by my keyfob. But if I was to unplug the unit (the actuator is in) the keyfob works. I checked the fuses etc. When I plug in the unit (the actuator is in) i can feel it lock, but other than that nothing else happens.

I'm super confused because it never happened to me.
__________________
01 GS430
SWERVE
https://www.facebook.com/SwerveKrew

Last edited by abounly; 09-27-13 at 06:20 PM..
abounly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-13, 06:38 PM   #1020
Mark
Lead Lap
Trader Score: (0)
 
Mark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 466
Send a message via AIM to Mark Send a message via Yahoo to Mark
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abounly View Post
So i'm confused AF

So i switched the actuator passenger front and pass rear. As I hooked up the front unit (that the actuator is in) the car wont lock by my keyfob. But if I was to unplug the unit (the actuator is in) the keyfob works. I checked the fuses etc. When I plug in the unit (the actuator is in) i can feel it lock, but other than that nothing else happens.

I'm super confused because it never happened to me.
I had that issue. I reversed the polarity of he actuator motor. Make sure the new motor spins in the same direction as the one.
__________________
Mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-13, 06:38 PM
 
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY: Mabuchi motors, door locks. YOU GUYS ARE NUTS Nick 2jz GS - Second Generation 15 10-26-14 10:01 AM
Looking to do my door lock actuators eYezs1ck GS - Second Generation 12 01-22-14 12:06 AM
2008 IS250 door actuator motor? vis250 IS - Second Generation 2 11-11-13 11:20 PM
Door Lock Actuator? AztecDuck ES350 (2007 - 2012) 7 07-05-10 07:18 AM
FL FS: Door Lock Acutuator Motors 2jzism 2Gen GS430 / 400/ 300 Classifieds (98-05) 11 10-02-09 05:38 PM


Tags
2000, 2008, 22125, 280, 280pt, 280pt22125, 3oo, actuator, clublexus, craigslist, diy, door, fc, fc280, fc280pt, fc280pt22125, gs, gs400, is, is350, lexus, lock, locking, mabuchi, motor, motors, number, part, replacement, sc

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:01 AM.

Join ClubLexus
Advertising


Copyright © 2000-2008 Internet Brands, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Privacy Policy | Disclaimer | Terms of Use | JOBS


Get all contact info