onelt1

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I am in a huge predicament. I am traveling and the most stressful and frustrating thing happened to me. I am stranded with very little money and not a lot of tools. I don't have a dmm, test light, or wiring with me to test anything. So after I stopped a filled up the tank and tried to restart the car nothing happened. The car would crank and crank but wouldn't start. I did some diagnosing after pulling the codes. I got codes 12, 24, and 78. I looked for any burnt out fuses and to my amazement I found one, just one. The fuse was to the radiator fan. After replacing codes 12 and 24 went away. Tried resetting the ecu to see if the would clear the code and the car would start but it didn't. Checked timing, plugs, wires, distributed, cap rotor, tps, iacv, and intake. Everything turned out in working order. I finally checked the fuel and it's components. The pump doesn't seem to prime. I jumped b+ and fp on the dlc and heard no pump noise. I turned the key on and even cranked the engine over to see if I can hear the pump, but no. Took the fuel hose off from under the intake and had no drips and no fresh fuel on anything after turning key on. Loosened banjo bolt that is up against the fire wall and had fuel dripping out turned the key on and didn't see a puddle or more/faster drips. I even hit the tank to see if I can get the pump to turn on and that didn't do anything except hurt me. So after that long *** story I am wondering if it is my fuel pump or is it the fuel pump controller or just the ecu. Please help I don't know anyone here and am staying in a hotel. This really sucks. I am in Limon CO and live in south central Kansas anyone in or around the Denver area that is willing to travel out here and help is more than welcome and as usual all help on here is very greatly appreciated, as always.

TRACKMKIII

Sounds like your fuel control computer or the fuel pump is dead. If you are getting 12v to the fuel control computer but nothing out then it is definitely the fuel control. Which is an easy fix!! Just do the 12 volt fuel pump mod and the car should run. If you are not getting 12v to the fuel control computer then is more than likely the main ECU itself. If after you do the 12v mod the fuel pump still doesn't run then its time for a new fuel pump. I hope that helps and good luck!!

onelt1

iTrader: (1)

Well I will try to see if I have 12 volts but since I don't have a dmm I can't tell what voltages are there. I have a little bit of extra wire and I will temporarily 12 volt mod the pump to see if the pump works. If it works then I will attach the wires good and tight. If not then I am SOL and I guess I start walking. Thank you for your help. I have been thinking that it is the fuel pump ecu more than the fuel pump itself.

onelt1

iTrader: (1)

I tried the 12 volt mod and the pump still didn't work. So I wired the pump directly to the battery and still nothing. That would mean that I have a faulty fuel pump, correct? Does anyone have a spare good pump that would be willing to drop it off? New oem pumps are outrageously expensive! Would the fuel pump relay not let the pump turn on? How, if possible do I check to see if the ECM isn't the culprit without tools? Bad part is I have to drain the fuel tank to put a new pump in. The tank is completely full. How many gallons would it take to drain without spilling any fuel onto the floor? I could probably find out all these questions by myself but it is cold outside and I don't to be out there for very long. I am so tired of this problem and I am ready to go home.

TRACKMKIII

Yeah it sounds like you need a fyel pump especially if you wired it straight to battery power and it still didn't work. Yeah the dealer will be crazy expensive but a local parts store should be able to get one for about $100 or order a walbro for about $120. I don't think you have to drop the tank to replace the fuel, I believe you can access it in the tank and it should drop right in.

onelt1

iTrader: (1)

I replaced the fuel pump and the car started up, took a little bit to get the fuel to the injectors but, it runs. Car ran great all the way home, but around 140 miles after replacing the fuel pump my CEL came on. A little further down the road I got out to check it and I have code 78 still. Which is fuel pump control signal fault. Anyone with any ideas of how to fix this? My car may run but the CEL is annoying and I would like for the light to be off, properly. Thank you trackmkiii for you help thus far.

TRACKMKIII

Sounds like there may still be a problem in the fuel control ecu. The fuel control ecu has capacitor issues like the main ECU does. What usually happens is the low voltage side stops functioning while the high side is still functioning so the car stills runs and drives. My guess is that the fuel pump shorted itself out and damaged the low voltage side of the fuel control ecu.

onelt1

iTrader: (1)

When it warms up I will do the 12 volt mod again. Until I can get a new fuel pump control module. I have noticed the pump seems louder than usual. Is this a bad thing? Or has my pump been going out for a long time?