wing0

Car is at 144000km.

Engine light + VSC light came on when first starting the car up this morning in the garage.
Checked with OBD reader and got both P1130 and P1150 code at the same time.
Is that common? I thought most people one or the other code.

I checked the fuel trim of bank 1/2 and A/F ratio while driving and they all respond quite normal.
Could this be a false positive? I've cleared the code the time being and want to see if this just a fluke.

Also, at the same time, the 12V cigarette lighter fuse blew. I'm not sure how my father did it, but wonder if it could've triggered the error codes?

hypervish

There have been instances when both codes popped up.
I suggest resetting the codes one time, and seeing which one(s) pop up first. < which you have already done

carguy07

MIne threw both of those codes at the same time like that. Turned out to just be b2s1 the sensor up front by the radiator.

wing0

OK, thanks for the info.

I will just wait to see if only one or both codes will return again.

Is the front one attached to the exhaust manifold?
I tried searching but was unable to find photos of DIY where I can see the location of these two sensors.

If there is, can someone link?
Thanks.

carguy07

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...el-sensor.html

wing0

Thanks carguy07!

I know I am not going to buy the sensor from dealership up here, but I just called them as I was curious as to the markup they put.

It's 340CAD each at toyota dealership.

wing0

So after reset the CEL. I got the code again, but this time only P1130 appear initially.

I found a place that carries Denso AF sensor for about 10% higher than lowest price in the states.
Now, I don't have the socket bit for the AF sensor, but while I was talking to my mechanic, he said he has seen cases where the threads comes off when you remove the sensor, especially the Bank 1 Sensor 1 due to all the salt/corrosion up here.

This sort of worries me if I were to do it myself. Is PB blaster enough to loosen it?
I have car ramps to get the car up, but not sure if I can get good leverage off my breaker bar.
What's a reasonable time required for a mechanic to remove the sensor?

carguy07

I would give it a shot myself. If it strips for you it would strip for him too. Not all of them are fused in like that. Some will come loose with a good tap from a hammer.

I would think that any mechanic could knock it out in less than 1/2 hour. Honestly getting the electrical connector apart can take more time than getting the sensor out.

wing0

I was wondering, since I have never done this before and it's a new experience for me.
What should I do if the thread is stripped.
I do have a portable torch, would it be wise to use that to heat up the thread area or maybe run the car for about 2-3 mins idling while I have the car on the ramp?

I'd love to not mess up it anymore than it is since this is really the first thing that has ever failed on the car in the past 10 years.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

change the A/F sensors and you should be good. you can get them cheap, just google densoaftermarket.

wing0

Yup, i know it's probably the sensor. Just went to the car and did another scan and only P1130 pops up after a week so P1150 is not appearing anymore.

I got the sensor today too, but now deciding to DIY over the weekend in the cold or let mechanic take care of it.

salimshah

Take it slow and box wrench with offset is best.

And work the threads .... 1/2 turn unthread and 1/4 thread back.

Salim

wing0

OK, will box wrench reach that spot?
I was thinking of getting the correct socket for it. I think it's like $7-8 here, not sure if it'll make a significant difference. At least I won't strip the bolt?

salimshah

The socket has a slot for the wire and if the sensor is welded in, it might spread on you and round off edges.

I used an offset box wrench for the sensor underneath. Have not had need to work on the top one.

I did buy the socket (with the slot) to torque the new sensor in.

Salim

trips1

I was in a similar situation. Tried bunch of stuff including PB blaster but I was not able to get the sensors out.
Went to independent mechanic with the sensors i had bought from Amazon and showed him the exact location of the 2 sensors he needed to replace.
He charged me $40. It took him only 15 minutes
Anyways what i realized was that i needed extra torque using a longer wrench/bar and that would have done the job for me.
But if you are really worried then probably you can buy the part and use an independent mechanic to change it for you.