GS - 1st Gen (1993-1997) Discussion about the first generation GS300

No crank,/ car acts like battery is dead but it's not:(!

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Old 06-15-12, 09:31 PM
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Mr.Gs_GTE
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Default No crank,/ car acts like battery is dead but it's not:(!

Hey guys, I've been working on a single turbo conversion on my 93 Lexus gs300 for the passed 2 mOnths and I finally got the car running for the first time since the project.
Yesterday before starting up my car, I disconnected the crank sensor and my coil packs to prime the engine. After charging the battery all day on a slow charge the car acted like the battery was dead. A very slow crank, lights on the dash were barely lighting up. I thought my charger was bad bad and the battery didn't charge.

I had my friend jump start it, and still nothing. Connected a volt meter to it, I had 11.9v.
Anyways I kept trying and finally it turned over strong enough to get the car started. The car ran fine last night and earlier this afternoon. After I installed my bumper and hooked up my fogs the car ran for about 5 minutes and the blocker I had on the Iac port for the pcv hose came off and the car died. Since then I've tried cranking it over and nothing.
When I have the key in the ignition, and open the door the bell is as loud as it should be an the door open indicator on the dash is as bright.

But the Flashers doesn't work, headlight does not turn on, and the domes are very low. Even with the key out of the ignition the oil light, cel an airbag light stays partially on.
I have no idea as off this min what the problem is. It got dark and I had to stop working on the car. I've checked the connections to the battery and they are all tight. I have my negative batt cable hooked up in the ac compressor which is the same spot I had it in last summer never had a problem. As far as code goes I have a dtc 12 but I'm positive it's because I disconnected the crank sensor to prime the engine.
Has anybody had any problems like this or possibly knows what the problem is please help. Any inputs would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Old 06-16-12, 11:26 AM
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JPGS300
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Sounds like the batt is fried. The batt after charging could still hold minimal charge and seeing 11.9 v it sounds like the crank amps are done. Lights on dash means it has low voltage. Swap batteries then do a charging system test to see if the alt is charging the system.
Old 06-16-12, 12:01 PM
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Mr.Gs_GTE
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Aight man, I'll do that and see. Thanks for the reply!
Old 06-16-12, 06:54 PM
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Another thing, check the starter's connection. Could be loose or corroded.
Old 06-16-12, 07:00 PM
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cnewingham
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Take the battery to the local parts store and have it load tested. You could have a dead cell. Also, to prime it the next time you need to do so, just remove the efi fuse instead of disconnecting the connectors
Old 06-16-12, 09:03 PM
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Mr.Gs_GTE
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I had the battery replaced and ld still the same thing. After
Making some adjustments I founded out I had/ still have a short somewhere. It's a new build, and when I move the fuel line which happends to be steel braided away from the manifold I get powered to everything. I finally got the car running but when I used lights or anything that got load it slowly kills the car. That was all day today. I'll look further tomorrow, I believe I got a lot to look into. If anybody got a clue I would really appreciate it.
Old 06-18-12, 10:10 PM
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2GSC300
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Sounds like you have a wiring issue. Probably something is grounding.There is no reason for dash lights to stay on after the key has been removed.
Old 06-18-12, 10:21 PM
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Mr.Gs_GTE
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It is a wiring issue. I wanna believe a huge short somewhere. I work all day today and I wasn't able to touch the car today. I'll do more tomorrow. I really hope I find it soon.
Old 06-19-12, 07:07 PM
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ProjektS13
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I had a similar issue with the lights being really dim and the car not starting and the battery was fully charged, I replaced the main fuse (50 amp) under the hood and it started right up. Weird thing was that it wasnt blown, the wire that you can see through the little "window" was pretty dark though.
Old 06-19-12, 07:44 PM
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Mr.Gs_GTE
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I'm going to check that. Cuz the car ran find till the day I pulled out the engine, and nothing electronical has been changed or updated. All of my wirings are still the same. All I dad was my turbo conversion. The car now runs fine, but the moment my fans kick on or I put my foot on the brake to move the shifter.. Pretty much any type of little load that is added electronically it would start to go lower in idle then it sound like a little back fire then it would die. If I let off and turn the loads off it runs fine again. It's really bouggin me right now man.
Old 06-20-12, 04:37 PM
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2GSC300
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Did you extend the harness when you did your swap? If you did, you want to check the connections. Also, check alternator output and all your grounds. I would, however, start with the main fuse like projeks13 mentioned, because its the easiest thing to do.
Old 06-20-12, 05:59 PM
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Mr.Gs_GTE
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I checked the fuse, and I have 0v across both outlets. And I did extend my harness during the swap but that was last summer. And I didn't have any problems through out till now. I'll double check it tho.
Old 06-20-12, 08:50 PM
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Okay guys, after 4 hours of checking and checking this is where I'm at.
I thought I had a short maybe in my starter or the alternator so to isolate possible causes I pulled the batt cable off the alternator. It didn't fit it. There's a loose ground wire that was hanging off the trans that would spark when it hit the subframe. I started to use that as a check point so that I'm not moving and since I'm doing everything by myself. I then pulled the positive batt cable off the starter, when the ground cable touched the frame after that I still had a spark. By this there is no power supplied to the entire car, no dome lights at all. I then hooked up my volt meter to the negative batt post and the positive to the right tunnel cover and I had a full 12v. ************* 12v!!
I started pulling things off the fuse box. I pulled all the relays but the reading didn't change. I then started pulling
the body harness the runs from the fuse box the Voltage started dropping from 12v to 10v and so on. After I had all the harnesses disconnected from the top and bottom of the fuse box I was down to 7.33v. Thats where I stopped tonight. Any clue if I did that right? Is it too early to bleam it on he fuse box? Through this the cable that runs from the positive batt terminal to the fuse box was still hooked up. Any ideas?
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