duraiaras

Since I have few days off now I thought of doing a brake fluid flush. Should only take couple of hours or less I guess.

1. Can someone tell me what's the order of drain and fill? Most common I have seen is Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front left. What about the Order in GS?
2. If you have done this please share what technic you used. One person with a Vacuum pump or with a helper to pump the brake pedal?

If anyone has done this for 4th Gen please share. I can't seem to find info about this in the threads here for GS.

phins2rt

I am not sure about the order but on my Hondas/Acuras I do a gravity bleed. I have had very good luck with that method. Good luck!

Bartman619

Usually start with the caliper furthest away from the brake master cylinder. If someone is pumping the brakes for you, you should check the brake fluid for bubbles as they pump. when the the bubbles disappear, the brake pumper holds down the brake pedal all the way down and then you can tighten the bleeder valve and proceed to the next caliper. PS, make sure you have a lot of brake fluid in the reservoir.

er34

I want to hear as well from someone who's done it.

I've heard there is something special about the rear where instead of having someone pump the pedal several times, you simply put pressure on and let the ABS pump do the work. Otherwise, it's just like any brake flush.

SC300Es

Why are you doing a brake flush on a 2015?

duraiaras

Thank you all. Took me close to 2 hours from Start to Finish.
Before I started, my risk Assessment was: If I fail and the brakes are spongy at the end then tow it to dealer and have them do it.
I did not do this to save $190 dealer charges but to get to know more about the car.
The brake fluid in the master cylinder and the one in the new can is almost same color. I couldn't tell the difference. Then why did I do it? Becos I had 31K miles and it was recommended at 30K service .

Tools needed:

1. 2 cans DOT 3 brake fluid (I got it from dealer. $6.50 each)
2. 3/8 ID clear tube
3. Empty water bottle and a catching pan and lots of rags
4. Zip tie to strangle clear tube close to the bleeder
5. Open end wrench size 8 for rear and 10 for front bleeder screw

Procedure: (I did got some ideas from this video www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc)

1. Covered the engine area and fender with big long rag just in case you spill drops of brake fluid
2. I used 2 person technic one to push the brake pedal and one for bleeding screw.
3. Order of bleeding is RR, RL, FR, FL.
4. Simple physics: As you push open the bleeder. Close the bleeder after few seconds(30) and have the second person release the pedal
5. As the fluid came out, since theres no color difference from old and new I let it flow until the fluid level in the master cylinder was between min and max and the stream had no bubbles
6. Make sure to check the master cylinder often as you drain and refill it

Edit: 11/25

1. After doing each wheel I checked the Brake pedal and it was solid stiff that I couldn't push. This means no air on brake lines.
2. After all the wheels are done took it for a test drive and pumped the brakes a few times slowly - no flooring first few times as I read this some where a while ago.

I also think with so much advance in technology why not the bleeder screw be one way and not let the air flow.

duraiaras

I have 31k miles. Bought it on Dec. 2014. Anytime I buy a new car it gets driven the most for first five years and the other car gets some rest time probably around $100 miles a week.

phins2rt

So how is the pedal feel? The same or better than before?

duraiaras

I checked the pedal after each one is done and it was stiff. Finally after putting the wheels on I test drove it and felt little better than before in stiffness.

phins2rt

Nice.

Dallasguy1

I'm at 30k miles also and dealer wanted 600+ for the 30k service, replaced all filters and engine oil in 150$. Not sure if I wanna touch the brakes yet.