DMPesso

I am just wondering if this is the alternator going bad, SOMETIMES when I shift the car into D the car will not move until I give it gas, it just feels like it has less power. I think I notice it most when i havent taken the car for any highway rides to charge the battery and have been doing mostly short trips. I know my alternator was weak last time I checked, just wanted to make sure that this is something a weak alternator can do? Or can this be something else?

CAKETOWN

iTrader: (7)

Check your throttle cable for proper tension, also when was the last time you cleaned the throttle body? Doing those 2 things fixed my cars charging issues. Also get a multi-meter and test the voltage at idle and at 2000 rpm warmed up. Also check out the battery, should have 12.6 volts after driving it.

Report back with your findings.

Here a useful link i used as well - http://densoautoparts.com/sites/defa...ing%20tips.pdf

Tank

iTrader: (19)

Uhhh,
if it was your alternator, the light that resembles a little battery would light up on the dash.

Tank

iTrader: (19)

Not sure how throttle cable tension and a dirty TB would effect charging issues.
but if it worked for you...

gsean400

Not your alternator, doesnt even really make any sense if you think about it. If your alternator dies you will run on battery and wont see a difference besides your battery/vsc lights.

I would do a simple tune up and go from there. Clean maf and throttle body, also replace air filter.good luck

lexo98

iTrader: (2)

I bought one of these http://m.ebay.com/itm/290946457765 to help me read some codes. I had to get the wifi version because it works with my iPhone 4. With different phones you can get the Bluetooth version that is cheaper. I bought the app OBD Fusion. Not only can I read codes but among many of the useful features I can see voltage.

DMPesso

thats what I was thinking as well. I will look out for a battery light. In my experience the light only comes on when the alternator is really about to crap out as that happened in my Acura a few times before it died completely. When it is a andom power loss that I feel only happens when I dont drive my car on the highway enough and have taken only short trips, it seems like a battery charging issue,but autozone replaced the gel battery with a new one and they said if it still happens it is most likely the alternator because it is "reading a little low". I remember him saying something like it should be reading at 12 and mine is reading at 11. SOMETHING like that....

DMPesso

yea thats what im saying, definitely doesnt seem like a TB issue, mine was cleaned a long time ago but this is definitely not something like that...

DMPesso

the MAF is only a few years old and the air filter was just replaced a few months ago but even a dirty air filter wouldnt cause the car not to move when its shifted into D. I mean the alternator is at 155k miles, it has never been replaced. I mean isnt it POSSIBLE for the alternator to be GOING bad and not give a battery light?

DMPesso

I will see if this happens again because now that my car is being driven on the highway I am feeling like the car is a litle faster. My heart is telling me alternator.

CAKETOWN

iTrader: (7)

Well my car was idling lower than oem spec therefore my alternator wasnt giving me the required voltage to charge my car at idle, i adjusted the tension on the cable and it immediately started idling higher and i was then getting a good reading from the alternator, car works mint now. The throttle allows air into the car, so if it was super dirty, this would prevent air from getting into the engine efficiently, therefore idling improperly.

At the end of the day, the numbers don't lie, you're either getting a good readout from the alternator or you're not. Also if your alternator dies, the car will use the reserve capacity on the battery until that is depleted and then you'll have no power at all.

gsean400

I have been through hell and back with my alternator, and i can clearly say our alternators never give an accurate reading. I have changed out litteraly everything you can think of. I have replaced the belt, the alternator 3 times, the ground and power wire, new battery, new battery new terminals new battery ground, did The big 4. (added extra wires) and my alternator still wont pass an in car test but WILL pass a bench test. There have been posts about how our alternators dont really charge well and if heavy eletronics are used and you sit at idle for long enough you will get the battery light. One thing i have noticed is that the car wont pass the test when the radiator fans go on but passes when its off.

OP it is not your alternator. The only possible way it could even related is if your battery was bad and your alternator is going out. Even then your dash light would go crazy with the battery light vsc abs lights in the dash.

Tank

iTrader: (19)

ok