Coolant leaking from end of hoses and cap. Replace all 14 year old hoses?
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Coolant leaking from end of hoses and cap. Replace all 14 year old hoses?
So everything in my engine bay is pretty much leaking, My alternator went out about an hour ago. The car wants to die at idle and the battery light turns on radio shuts off ect, I have a PS pump leak and I am about 80% positive that is the problem. However, I did use about half a bottle of PS stop leak 2 weeks ago, and I accidentally filled above the line. Since then, I have been keeping an eye on The PS pump fluid level and it has not moved since adding the stop leak. After inspecting the engine bay more thoroughly, I can see stains all over my engine bay and look like they are coming from the ends of my radiator hoses and cap. The car is not over heating, the hoses don't look cracked it is just the ends that look like the leak is coming from. After replacing the alternator should I change out all the hoses? Also I drive the car pretty hard it will see redline a couple times every other day. Maybe, that is the fluid that shorted the alternator?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
Last edited by gsean400; 01-12-15 at 08:34 PM.
#4
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replace them!
I would replace your hoses for sure. Just because they're not busted or leaking doesn't mean they haven't lost their seal over time. They're cheap and easy to replace.
#6
Racer
If it were my beater car, I'd just cut the bad ends of the hoses and reattach it, but it's not much to replace them with new ones.
Also I notice you are using adjustable clamps? I'd get the oem clamps. It provides the exact amount of tightness and seals better that the adjustable ones. Also I heard that over time you could damage your radiator to hose connection by overtightening the clamp.
Also I notice you are using adjustable clamps? I'd get the oem clamps. It provides the exact amount of tightness and seals better that the adjustable ones. Also I heard that over time you could damage your radiator to hose connection by overtightening the clamp.
#7
tighten clamps. might need to clean where the hoses sit, but you dont really need to spend money there.
flush your ps pump so you dont have that stop leak in there. that **** kills. fix the ps pump
i'd worry about that pump first. your pump is just above the alternator. so thats whats killing your alternator
flush your ps pump so you dont have that stop leak in there. that **** kills. fix the ps pump
i'd worry about that pump first. your pump is just above the alternator. so thats whats killing your alternator
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Hey guys new problem, I had the alternator rebuilt and beefed up, cleaned up power steering fluid and it hasn't leaked. I put the alternator in and started her up and now it seems like the alternator isn't charging at all unless the revs are in a higher rpm. For example in drive at idle the battery light will turn on and the electronics will flicker.. But when I throw it in neutral, everything gets brighter and everything works like normal.. Does anyone know what it could be its driving me NUTS. Alternator is charging at 13.4 and battery checked out good what could it be? I got new hoses and the belt doesn't squeal anymore so I don't think it's a fluid issue.. Every time I'm at a red light playing music everything starts shutting down and I have to throw it in neutral..
#9
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
Guessing you're battery is not fully charged - also check that the pulley is the same size as the stock one or smaller. If it's bigger that won't work - also I have had an alternator that was beefed up and it didn't charge too well at idle.
As far as the hoses - if it were my car, I would - and have - just replace every hose on the car with OEM hoses from the dealer - the price is't that much different and you won't need to ever do it again unless you own the car forever and a day. There are not many hoses on these cars vs. other cars so it's not too big a deal.
One more thing - ditch those screw clamps and get the proper OEM hose "spring" clamps, they will maintain constant pressure vs. the screw clamps that need re-torquing.
You should note that the GS400/430 upper rad hose is snapper on one end and can be installed backwards making it easy to come off or leak.
I had an upper hose like yours that pushed back and it blew off at about 5500rpm one day - not too good - get it fixed.
As far as the hoses - if it were my car, I would - and have - just replace every hose on the car with OEM hoses from the dealer - the price is't that much different and you won't need to ever do it again unless you own the car forever and a day. There are not many hoses on these cars vs. other cars so it's not too big a deal.
One more thing - ditch those screw clamps and get the proper OEM hose "spring" clamps, they will maintain constant pressure vs. the screw clamps that need re-torquing.
You should note that the GS400/430 upper rad hose is snapper on one end and can be installed backwards making it easy to come off or leak.
I had an upper hose like yours that pushed back and it blew off at about 5500rpm one day - not too good - get it fixed.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks every one for the kind advice, our cars are getting old and I hate to have to add another "how do I fix it thread". I will get the clamps at the dealer on Monday when service opens, I had no clue my clamps were even aftermarket. I should have known since it looks just like the aftermarket ones I used to keep my evap hoses from falling off.
#11
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Guessing you're battery is not fully charged - also check that the pulley is the same size as the stock one or smaller. If it's bigger that won't work - also I have had an alternator that was beefed up and it didn't charge too well at idle.
As far as the hoses - if it were my car, I would - and have - just replace every hose on the car with OEM hoses from the dealer - the price is't that much different and you won't need to ever do it again unless you own the car forever and a day. There are not many hoses on these cars vs. other cars so it's not too big a deal.
One more thing - ditch those screw clamps and get the proper OEM hose "spring" clamps, they will maintain constant pressure vs. the screw clamps that need re-torquing.
You should note that the GS400/430 upper rad hose is snapper on one end and can be installed backwards making it easy to come off or leak.
I had an upper hose like yours that pushed back and it blew off at about 5500rpm one day - not too good - get it fixed.
As far as the hoses - if it were my car, I would - and have - just replace every hose on the car with OEM hoses from the dealer - the price is't that much different and you won't need to ever do it again unless you own the car forever and a day. There are not many hoses on these cars vs. other cars so it's not too big a deal.
One more thing - ditch those screw clamps and get the proper OEM hose "spring" clamps, they will maintain constant pressure vs. the screw clamps that need re-torquing.
You should note that the GS400/430 upper rad hose is snapper on one end and can be installed backwards making it easy to come off or leak.
I had an upper hose like yours that pushed back and it blew off at about 5500rpm one day - not too good - get it fixed.
#12
(WRONG MODEL FORUM Mods detete)
When I was changing the STARTER on my 99LS couple weeks ago, I changed two vacuum hoses that looked the worst. One is PCV hose ( I changed the grommet in the valve cover as well) the other one was on the opposite side of the engine.
What happens with age, rubber gets hard and brittle, cracks on the end and if you try to pull it onto a fitting, the crack just gets longer, splits along the hose. You can cut to make afresh end, but you can snip only so much...hose gets shorter and sometimes too short
Val
When I was changing the STARTER on my 99LS couple weeks ago, I changed two vacuum hoses that looked the worst. One is PCV hose ( I changed the grommet in the valve cover as well) the other one was on the opposite side of the engine.
What happens with age, rubber gets hard and brittle, cracks on the end and if you try to pull it onto a fitting, the crack just gets longer, splits along the hose. You can cut to make afresh end, but you can snip only so much...hose gets shorter and sometimes too short
Val
Last edited by valex; 10-12-18 at 08:18 PM. Reason: wrong model forum
#13
Pole Position
iTrader: (12)
So everything in my engine bay is pretty much leaking, My alternator went out about an hour ago. The car wants to die at idle and the battery light turns on radio shuts off ect, I have a PS pump leak and I am about 80% positive that is the problem. However, I did use about half a bottle of PS stop leak 2 weeks ago, and I accidentally filled above the line. Since then, I have been keeping an eye on The PS pump fluid level and it has not moved since adding the stop leak. After inspecting the engine bay more thoroughly, I can see stains all over my engine bay and look like they are coming from the ends of my radiator hoses and cap. The car is not over heating, the hoses don't look cracked it is just the ends that look like the leak is coming from. After replacing the alternator should I change out all the hoses? Also I drive the car pretty hard it will see redline a couple times every other day. Maybe, that is the fluid that shorted the alternator?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
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