speedometer not working
#1
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speedometer not working
Is there a fuse or relay that controls the speedometer? all my gauges work but the odometer and speedometer is not working.....
#3
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My VSC stays off all the time and my car still acts as though the key is in the ignition even when I take out the key it continues to chime and the steering does not retract. i checked all the fuses none appear to be blown so I figured it was a relay
#6
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If it is a software problem, it is time to reboot ... disconnect battery for 30 mins or so. Remember to put things at your preferred settings, so that you can easily reprogram once you reconncet the battery.
Apparently there seems to be a hardware problem too, but the reboot is easy and cheap.
Salim
Apparently there seems to be a hardware problem too, but the reboot is easy and cheap.
Salim
#7
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I disconnected my battery and left it off overnight but it still does the same thing. I did a search and there was a guy named Tone who had the same problem after he jumped his car well my problemstarted after a a dumbass put my battery in backwards it blew a couple fuses but I changed them so I was wondering if it could be a relay. I PM'd Tone to see what he did but no response as yet
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#8
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With that information, I suggest you check every fuse. You can pull one fuse at a time and measure for "0" ohms with a vom. If you read open that is the one that is bad.
I would start with the fuse box under the hood. Some are spade fuses which you can pull and re-insert. There are at least 2 which are bolted in for high amperage (the friction fit is not good enough for that high current). I suspect one of those is blown. You can connect a vom in "voltage measure mode", and the blown fuse will show battery voltage (12v) across the the ends*. Once you take them out you can safely measure ohms.
*note: The load must be on to develop the voltage, so measure voltage with car running (the time when you do not see the failing electronics light up).
If I had electrical diagram, I could help you narrow down to actual fuse.
Salim
I would start with the fuse box under the hood. Some are spade fuses which you can pull and re-insert. There are at least 2 which are bolted in for high amperage (the friction fit is not good enough for that high current). I suspect one of those is blown. You can connect a vom in "voltage measure mode", and the blown fuse will show battery voltage (12v) across the the ends*. Once you take them out you can safely measure ohms.
*note: The load must be on to develop the voltage, so measure voltage with car running (the time when you do not see the failing electronics light up).
If I had electrical diagram, I could help you narrow down to actual fuse.
Salim
#10
Driver School Candidate
3 issues are:
1. 1. speedometer not moving
2. 2. odometer digital display is blank
3. 3. shifting is erratic while trying to accelerate
#12
Driver School Candidate
Forgive me, I definitely do not want to mess up the system. I'm new to this. I just know that I read old threads all the time and find very valuable information from years ago. I figured since i was able to find a solution, i thought it might be a help to others. I replied to the first few threads that popped up on a google search. I'll be more mindful of your suggestion in the future. Thanks!
#13
No
This is how it should look
My odometer stopped working after I did a burn out for a few seconds, I tried this method and it has worked. Im not sure why or what exactly it does but it worked to get my speedometer working again.
This is how it should look
My odometer stopped working after I did a burn out for a few seconds, I tried this method and it has worked. Im not sure why or what exactly it does but it worked to get my speedometer working again.
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shuiyuan
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
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01-16-08 06:56 PM