Should I consider purchasing this 2000 Lexus Es300?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Should I consider purchasing this 2000 Lexus Es300?
Hello all,
I am in search for my first car, and am looking for a 2000-2001 Lexus es300 just because I absolutely love their body shape. Unfortunately, I haven't had much luck finding one near me, and am a bit afraid on getting one from out of state due to me not being able to drive it beforehand and just having it shipped.
There is one vehicle available in my area that I may perhaps be interested in. It's a 2000 Lexus es300 with 198,000 miles on it. The asking price is $3400. I am going to attach pictures of the vehicle in this post. I'm just wondering, is it even worth it to go take a look at the car, or will it be a lemon due to the higher miles? My budget to spend is around $5k max and I'm looking to get one by the 20th of May. I haven't really seen many others around.
I am planning to go take a look at it tomorrow and probably going to pay about $30 to have my mechanic to do a full pre purchase inspection on it. I'm a college student and looking for about 6-8 years out of any car I buy, enough to get me through med school. My girlfriend and I will probably be taking some long road trips in it (a few 1000 mile road trips) and I'm wondering if I can rely on this vehicle to get me there and back.
Thank you all for your suggestions and help
I appreciate it
I am in search for my first car, and am looking for a 2000-2001 Lexus es300 just because I absolutely love their body shape. Unfortunately, I haven't had much luck finding one near me, and am a bit afraid on getting one from out of state due to me not being able to drive it beforehand and just having it shipped.
There is one vehicle available in my area that I may perhaps be interested in. It's a 2000 Lexus es300 with 198,000 miles on it. The asking price is $3400. I am going to attach pictures of the vehicle in this post. I'm just wondering, is it even worth it to go take a look at the car, or will it be a lemon due to the higher miles? My budget to spend is around $5k max and I'm looking to get one by the 20th of May. I haven't really seen many others around.
I am planning to go take a look at it tomorrow and probably going to pay about $30 to have my mechanic to do a full pre purchase inspection on it. I'm a college student and looking for about 6-8 years out of any car I buy, enough to get me through med school. My girlfriend and I will probably be taking some long road trips in it (a few 1000 mile road trips) and I'm wondering if I can rely on this vehicle to get me there and back.
Thank you all for your suggestions and help
I appreciate it
#2
Lexus Champion
Given that huge trunk gap I'd say that car was in a major rear end collision. Verify this with a CarFax and inspect it to make sure there's no damage to the undercarriage or frame.
If you're keeping it for at least 8 years, I'd recommend looking at a 2002 and up ES, the newer body style and is less prone to the transmission problems that the 99-2001 ES's had.
If you're keeping it for at least 8 years, I'd recommend looking at a 2002 and up ES, the newer body style and is less prone to the transmission problems that the 99-2001 ES's had.
#3
Lead Lap
that car has been in an accident, they moved the "es300" badge to the taillight when they repainted it. which is a sign that it probably wasn't repair professionally. Well, it would be in my country.
I noticed the carpets were quite stained too.
It's well polished, the accident damage would put me off, but it doesn't have to be a bad thing. Most older cars would have had some incident at some point. Usually the actually repair them properly though.
I noticed the carpets were quite stained too.
It's well polished, the accident damage would put me off, but it doesn't have to be a bad thing. Most older cars would have had some incident at some point. Usually the actually repair them properly though.
#7
Lexus Fanatic
Trending Topics
#8
My 2001 badge is on the tailight. My radiator is not black but tannish in color. Bicker down the price but especially look for sludge issues. Your mechanic should be able to do this . Regular oil changes avoids this. Mileage is high but if it had been maintained, it's good for another 100,000 easy! Oh, and ask and proof that timing belt has been changed, receipts are magic!
#9
Lead Lap
iTrader: (10)
The rad being green is normal, mine looked the exact same from 70k miles [got the car] until I sold it, at double the mileage. My friends' IS300 was the same, all of the SC's are the same.
It's normal, in fact if I were to see a black radiator it would have me wondering what sort of aftermarket unit it is...
CAD/AU cars - trunk
USA cars - tail
For the badges... looks better there IMO, with a debadged "Lexus" script
I always thought so too, that is, until my transmission decided "no" around 145k miles...
It's normal, in fact if I were to see a black radiator it would have me wondering what sort of aftermarket unit it is...
CAD/AU cars - trunk
USA cars - tail
For the badges... looks better there IMO, with a debadged "Lexus" script
My 2001 badge is on the tailight. My radiator is not black but tannish in color. Bicker down the price but especially look for sludge issues. Your mechanic should be able to do this . Regular oil changes avoids this. Mileage is high but if it had been maintained, it's good for another 100,000 easy! Oh, and ask and proof that timing belt has been changed, receipts are magic!
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#12
Lead Lap
The material in the top tank goes from black to green over time with heat. When that material goes from greenish to a tan colour the stress from constant heating and cooling has damaged the integrity of the material, it is at this point (when it's tan-ish or light brown/green) that cranks will start to occur from the inside out.
That is why I raised it as a concern, because it can also be a symptom of prolonged excessive engine bay heat cause (in my case) by the fans not running when the car is hot. The ES300/Windom/Camry (and most cars) are designed not to overheat if that happens, the cooling system us meant to be able to support the car if the fans stop working up to an engine temperature of around 90-100 degree C (normal operating temp is 85C), .... so to a point of course.
The reason why radiator top (and bottom) or in some cases side tanks, are made from that plastic material is because it crack/fails. No, that's not a cynical dig at manufacturers, it's a brilliant design actually. The ability of the radiator to fail under stress creates a controlled point of failure, so it's far less likely that the a headgasket or water pump seal or bypass hose (in the middle of the block low down) will fail, in fact the radiator should fail before anything else. Since it's quite simple to put "nearly" any old radiator in a car and then limp it the rest of the way to where it needs to go to be repaired. There are even temporary repair its which work really quite well to seal cracks in the plastic tanks.
I hope this clears that up, others may have different information to form a more accurate view, this is just what I know, I could be totally wrong of course.
Last edited by ES300NZ; 05-06-15 at 02:01 PM.
#13
Driver School Candidate
Yeah, if it's close, go take a look at it and go for a test drive.
I've been driving a relatives 1998 for a while (still looking for a newer one for me) and it drives fine despite the bare minimum done maintenance wise for the last 90k (it has 180k on it).
One thing to remember with the 1999+ VVTi engine is that it's an interference engine, so if the timing belt goes, it could destroy the engine. And at near 200k, it should have had the belt/water pump done twice. If it hasn't, you're looking at a $500 bill.
Also at that mileage, the suspension is going to be worn out, so new struts/shocks would be another $500'ish (unless you can DIY it, $200'ish).
I must say, these older ES300's seem to be built to a higher quality than the 02-06 and 08 I've driven. The stock sound system is definitely better than the newer ones.
The quietness has spoiled me, as I've driven 2010 Accords, 08 and 10 Camry SE, down to the horribly loud 2013 Fit. They're all loud and cheap feeling compared to this 180k 98 ES I've been driving. If I could find a 100k 97-01 ES, I'd buy it in a heart beat...in fact, one was posted on my local Craigslist the other night, a 98 w/95k for $4200. It was gone by 10am the next day...so sad.
I've been driving a relatives 1998 for a while (still looking for a newer one for me) and it drives fine despite the bare minimum done maintenance wise for the last 90k (it has 180k on it).
One thing to remember with the 1999+ VVTi engine is that it's an interference engine, so if the timing belt goes, it could destroy the engine. And at near 200k, it should have had the belt/water pump done twice. If it hasn't, you're looking at a $500 bill.
Also at that mileage, the suspension is going to be worn out, so new struts/shocks would be another $500'ish (unless you can DIY it, $200'ish).
I must say, these older ES300's seem to be built to a higher quality than the 02-06 and 08 I've driven. The stock sound system is definitely better than the newer ones.
The quietness has spoiled me, as I've driven 2010 Accords, 08 and 10 Camry SE, down to the horribly loud 2013 Fit. They're all loud and cheap feeling compared to this 180k 98 ES I've been driving. If I could find a 100k 97-01 ES, I'd buy it in a heart beat...in fact, one was posted on my local Craigslist the other night, a 98 w/95k for $4200. It was gone by 10am the next day...so sad.
#14
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Just a heads up, my 2001 es300 recently came back on Craigslist with 265k miles. Now while it has some ridiculously ghetto 20 inch wheels and more songs and dents, the timing belt was last changed at 105k. While not ideal, it just goes to show a belt can go longer than 90k.
#15
Driver School Candidate