Rear sway bar end links FRUSTRATING!! (Trying to replace struts)
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: wellington, nz
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear sway bar end links FRUSTRATING!! (Trying to replace struts)
Trying to replace the rear shocks got the back seat out, car jacked up & on stands sprayed all the nuts & bolt with CRC everything's going good, managed to break all the nuts/bolts loose without too much trouble and then come to the bit where the sway bar end link is bolted to the strut...
It seems that the last mechanic or perhaps previous owner who did the shocks managed to round out the hex bit in the middle... I got the bolt loose and it turned a few times before they both started to spin. At best the grip I can get on the hex inside is crappy - little to none, it's more like a round hole than a hex one. I have new allen key and also new hex socket both 5mm - they're not old & worn out.
Now the problem is the nut got about halfway off before they both wanted to turn... Inside hex getting no grip really. I can't tighten it back on, and can't loosen it off..
So I'm left with maybe buying some needle nose vice grips and seeing if I can get any grip on the inside hex with those... Anyone think that will work??
Other than that I'm lost for ideas other than to try and hacksaw thru the bolt.... I'll have to go and buy a hacksaw with those needle nose vice grips...
I've ordered a replacement end link which should be here tomorrow cost about $40NZ for new aftermarket part - Toyota wanted $250 for OEM part, Repco wanted just over $150 for Nolathane aftermarket part, Super Cheap Auto wanted $75. So given I'm on a tight budget I'm happy.
It seems that the last mechanic or perhaps previous owner who did the shocks managed to round out the hex bit in the middle... I got the bolt loose and it turned a few times before they both started to spin. At best the grip I can get on the hex inside is crappy - little to none, it's more like a round hole than a hex one. I have new allen key and also new hex socket both 5mm - they're not old & worn out.
Now the problem is the nut got about halfway off before they both wanted to turn... Inside hex getting no grip really. I can't tighten it back on, and can't loosen it off..
So I'm left with maybe buying some needle nose vice grips and seeing if I can get any grip on the inside hex with those... Anyone think that will work??
Other than that I'm lost for ideas other than to try and hacksaw thru the bolt.... I'll have to go and buy a hacksaw with those needle nose vice grips...
I've ordered a replacement end link which should be here tomorrow cost about $40NZ for new aftermarket part - Toyota wanted $250 for OEM part, Repco wanted just over $150 for Nolathane aftermarket part, Super Cheap Auto wanted $75. So given I'm on a tight budget I'm happy.
#2
Lexus Fanatic
A small-ish pair of Vice Grips (not needle nose) can be used on the back side of the link to keep it from turning. Cut away the rubber boot to get a better look. Of you can take a hack saw and cut them off.
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
I cut mine with a dremel without even going as far as you did. Those allen key designs are only good for a few years, before they get corrosion in them and seize up. The ones I have now have a bolt on the shaft and a bolt that you turn, so you can use two wrenches to break them loose.
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: wellington, nz
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
then maybe the hacksaw last resort...
I don't really want to surrender and go to a mechanics lol... that will really brass me off!
I suppose I'm going to run into the same problem when it comes to removing / unbolting the link at the sway bar end (bottom end)
Trending Topics
#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: wellington, nz
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replacement end link just arrived... The brand is Camelot, now I just need the shops to open so I can get a couple more tools and back to the task....
It's comforting too see others have had the same issues and it's not just testing my me, lol
The hex bolt fits my hex socket perfectly! No way would the bolt turn with a snug fit like this, so shouldn't be to hard to get on - touch wood, fingers crossed etc etc
I just hope it's not a drama getting the link off at the bottom end (sway bar end)
It's comforting too see others have had the same issues and it's not just testing my me, lol
The hex bolt fits my hex socket perfectly! No way would the bolt turn with a snug fit like this, so shouldn't be to hard to get on - touch wood, fingers crossed etc etc
I just hope it's not a drama getting the link off at the bottom end (sway bar end)
Last edited by gtstcactus; 01-15-14 at 11:10 AM.
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Its common on older vehicles....especially when you live in areas where they use salt on the street for winter. Make sure you put some anti-seized on the threads so that if you have to remove them in the future, they would come off easier.
#10
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: wellington, nz
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was thinking the springs are probably passed their best by now and look to be the originals..
#11
Lexus Test Driver
Yes, quick struts (if they are available for your model) are easy and less headache.
I have replaced struts / springs / strut mounts using spring compressors....not fun....
I have replaced struts / springs / strut mounts using spring compressors....not fun....
#12
Lead Lap
I dremeled mine off too...
#13
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: wellington, nz
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was thinking one of these nut splitters should work to deal with this nut I can't remove.... Anyone see why this wouldn't work???
http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/onli...om=70306#Cross
Last edited by gtstcactus; 01-15-14 at 10:11 PM.
#14
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: wellington, nz
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't believe I did this..... I spent ages - several hours fighting with the nut.... trying to get hex socket to grip it, then Using nut cracker, hacksaw and various other bits & pieces to get it off - without success...
I was getting damn sick of it and sat back for a short break and was thinking about the above post and only then did it sink in LOL.... No need to remove the damn nut attaching strut to end link when replacing both....
The other end of the end link came off in seconds... I'll have to stick a photo of the mangled nut up for laughs sake...
Anyway job done - strut & end link replaced... I used the TEMS strut in my NON TEMS Windom (cut the wire) and all is good - horrible noise is gone & suspension works like it should...
First time I've done a strut/shock replacement on my own - the only other time was helping a friend on an old Mistubishi about 15 years ago - so suffice to say I'm quite pleased with myself, I really didn't want to surrender to a mechanic!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post