vintagelex

Hey guys, I have a quick question about replacing my spark plugs. They are way overdue for replacement, and I was wondering how much work it is to replace all 6 plugs and wires. I've heard that the intake does not have to come off, is this true? I have to do my front valve cover gasket as well so I'd like to do this all at one time. Also, correct me if I'm wrong but I remember reading somewhere that there are spark plug seals as well? If there are then I'd replace those as well. When I had my timing belt done a few weeks ago, I asked how much it would be to do spark plugs, and they said for just doing the plugs (no wires, etc) it would be $190. That seems like way too much and I should be able to do this myself, but I need some advice on this. What tools do I need, and can this be done fairly quickly? I'm really just concerned about how I'll get to the rear plugs/wires. Oh and the car is a 92 ES. Thanks

LeX2K

It is possible to replace the back bank of plugs without removing the plenum, but the job can be frustrating. Are your valve cover gaskets leaking? If they are, then why not do those along with the plug seals and the spark plugs. The job is fairly challenging, if you've never done it before expect it to take up days work.

BTW removing the plenum is not difficult, the hardest part is probably removing the brace that goes between the block and the intake manifold, also make sure you label the various vacuum lines and hoses to get it all back together properly. Don't even think about removing the vacuum lines from the bi-metallic valves, you will probably break them.

vintagelex

I know it's been a while since I posted, but now I'm going to be getting some tools soon so I'll be able to take care of this (on a warm day hopefully). There are just two things I want to make sure of before I start, maybe someone here who has experience working on these engines can give some input. The factory service manual says the engine needs iridium spark plugs gapped to 1.1 millimeters, is this correct? Also (sorry for such a beginner's question) can I replace the distributor cap and rotor without messing up my ignition timing? As far as I know the actual body of the distributor has to be rotated to adjust timing but I just want to make sure. If I can't replace the cap and rotor without having to then adjust the ignition timing I'll just leave it alone, leave the wires alone as well and just replace the spark plugs.

LeX2K

Suggested parts list:

• Spark plug - Denso PQ20R (this is what the car came with)
• Ignition wire set - genuine part# 90919-21607
• Distributor cap - genuine part# 19101-62050 or OES1628781
• Rotor - genuine part# 19102-62030
  

You don't have to replace the cap and rotor, depending on the condition, plus you can always do it later. But I would replace the wires since you will have easy access. The cap is not that difficult to remove and you won't disturb the timing. I like the OEM wires because they come with the proper mounting hardware you don't have to swap anything over, and they wires are labeled properly and fit exactly. You can save money and get NGK or Seiwa wires, and go with cheaper parts on the cap and rotor. But IMO it is not worth it.

I've used iridium plugs on the 3VZ-FE and I thought it actually ran worse, I liked the original Denso plugs better. BTW, the distributor O-ring is a frequent source of leaks on this engine, you should consider replacing it. Once you have removed the distributor cap, removing the distributor is fairly easy, just pay attention to the position of the rotor to make it easier to get back in. You will have to set the timing however.

donbryce

You can get that distributor O-ring from a Toyota dealer, part number 90301-68005. Here's a quick write-up on plug changes on a '93 ES300, plenum off: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...vzfe-done.html Here's a DIY for the 1MzFE engine, plenum on: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...asy-way-2.html
EDIT: SORRY! Wrong number, my receipts from Toyota got mixed up. I think the correct number is 19127-61240.

vintagelex

Thanks for the info on the spark plugs, idk why I thought they were iridium... I'll use the exact ones that are supposed to be used. I decided I'm probably going to get a couple of extensions and a universal joint and attempt the rear plugs without taking off the intake. I don't want to start having to remove all those rubber hoses and vacuum lines because I just have a feeling they might start breaking and a small project will turn into a big expensive project